Technology
The Power of Headless Commerce
Why Fashion Businesses Should Harness the Power of Headless Commerce
ARTICLE BY MUCHANETA KAPFUNDE, FOUNDING EDITOR-IN-CHIEF FASHNERD.COM
In today’s world, it is hard for any industry to ignore the explosion of innovation, let alone the growth of its adoption. Even the fashion industry, which has always been hesitant to invest, started in 2020 to seriously take note when it became apparent that the fashion industry’s overall health was now reliant on its ability to adapt to new ways of doing business. Switching to survival mode, brands and retailers, especially those who have been dealt a tough hand due to the pandemic, started diving into innovations designed to get them back on track. One of these best-in-class technologies is headless commerce.
Born from what RetailDive described as “retailers’ struggle to create an online purchasing experience that was consistent with the slick marketing customers were used to seeing”, headless commerce has been proving to be more than just another buzzword. Although it has been acknowledged by luxury labels like Lancome and Michael Kors, who are using the solution to run their eCommerce stores, the question remains, what is headless commerce?
The Rise of Headless Commerce
For some businesses, it was the enforced disruption of 2020 that brought headless commerce to their attention. If you are hoping to take advantage of what headless commerce can bring to the table, you need first to understand what the solution is. The idea behind Headless is pretty simple. It is the decoupling of the front-end and the back-end of a brand’s e-commerce solution. The front-end is what your customers see when they are interacting with your store. The back-end, which is responsible for all of the functionality, is what the customer never sees.
Now, most e-commerce solutions have their back-end and front-end coupled, which means that any changes requiring a developer to configure code to account for those changes – turning a small project into a big one; and this is when headless commerce comes in. Shaneil Lafayette, Commerce Technology Advocate and Data Analyst, explains: “Headless commerce is a solution that allows you to innovate and add new customer touchpoints without ever having to worry about messing about functionality in expectations”. Adding: “You can add new and personalised commerce experiences to keep up with customer expectations”.
Not an entirely new approach, Nacelle, a company that helps businesses create next-gen web stores by offering headless functionality as a solution, defines headless commerce as an innovation that allows retailers to scale their e-commerce business. More technically, headless commerce is “the decoupling of a website’s front-end from the back-end and implementing an API architecture that enables making fluid changes to the site’s content and user interface elements without affecting the back-end”, according to Algolia, a search-as-a-service platform.
Although brands like Oliver Bonas, Etsy, J.Crew, and ASOS are adopting headless solutions, some brands and retailers are still trying to understand why this ‘future-proof’ package is on the rise. One argument offered by ‘Content And Commerce: The Odd Couple Or The Power Couple?’ authors Stephen Powers and Peter Sheldon is: “It is no longer enough to enable an online catalogue and transactional e-commerce.” A valid point. So taking it one step at a time, to understand why headless is on the rise, I think one needs first to understand the difference between traditional commerce and headless commerce.
Traditional Versus Headless
Before pointing out the difference between traditional or headless, allow me first to say, although headless commerce has its advantages, traditional e-commerce website solutions are always great for those starting or those looking for an easy setup that requires less financial investment. But if you are past that stage and want to take the next step, then headless commerce could be the progressive solution that makes it easier for your business to present experiences and test new strategies.
Let’s start with the front-end. It has been said that when it comes to the front-end, traditional commerce platforms have a reputation for having design constraints that limit developers. This hindrance is usually not experienced in headless commerce. That is not to say that headless commerce doesn’t come with its drawbacks, it does, but with perks that include advantages that enable front-end developers to create, from scratch, a user experience that fits core business needs, the benefits currently outweigh its limitations.
When it comes to customisation, the traditional commerce platform affords limited personalisation, while headless platforms offer developers the opportunity to create their own user experience. By this, I mean that headless commerce is built for customisation, which means that it is a solution that makes it easier for you to rearrange your store or change content as and when you need to.
Ready To Be Free From Traditional Shackles?
Joe Cicman, a Forrester Senior Analyst, once said: “If you rewind the clock to the pre-headless days, you could spend millions of dollars figuring this stuff out for yourself”. The good news is that experts at Amplience have come up with a playbook that offers fashion businesses an opportunity to break down traditional barriers. Supporting headless commerce as an innovative solution, Amplience’s playbook explains the whys, what’s, and how to go headless.
Still wondering if you should get in on the action? Let’s go through some advantages of adopting this modern commerce architecture. It is a solution that gives you the ability to deploy, scale and provide an accurate omnichannel approach. As Harvard Business Review research revealed, this is important because omnichannel customers spend 4% more in-store and 10% more online than single-channel customers. Also that 73% of consumers use more than one channel during their shopping journey.
Another advantage of going down the headless route is the faster speed to market aspect, a must in an industry that thrives on speed and agility. Also, headless commerce can help brands adapt quickly to market changes and implement recent UX changes, like adding new functionality without changing the back-end logic.
Lastly, the most significant advantage has to be headless commerce’s ability to make it possible to build a store that is tailored to a fashion business’ needs. Imagine being able to create an all-in-one-platform that is not a clunky and outdated operation but a seamless system that ticks all your boxes and allows your customers to experience your brand’s overall aesthetic with ease.
Let's Talk Challenges & Whether Headless Is a Best-of-Breed Solution for You
Considering some experts to be a long-overdue upgrade, should you decide to join the headless tribe, you won’t be alone. As I mentioned earlier, Michael Kors shifted to a headless architecture in 2016. The benefits for the American fashion label include streamlining their efforts to engage with mobile users. Also, in 2016 French luxury perfumes and cosmetics house Lancôme transitioned to headless to capitalise on its increased mobile traffic. Following their evolution, Lancôme reported a 36% lift in mobile revenue and an average order value increase of 11%.
Like any emerging innovation, headless commerce comes with limitations. Not a quick solution for every retailer, headless commerce’s initial build costs and times can be relatively high, not to mention the ongoing costs. This is probably why larger organisations have mainly adopted headless commerce with the resources to commit to it. Some smaller businesses have taken a step towards going headless because, in the long run, they are looking at the bigger picture and thinking long term when it comes to their expectations of ROI.
In the end, yes, headless unlocks opportunities, but it is not suitable for everyone. It is a solution that offers excellent benefits if you are looking to bring specific traits to your overall business approach. Still, before you commit, you need to ask yourself, do I want to increase conversions? With mobile-first on the rise, is now the time to optimise my store for mobile shopping experiences? Are modern tools the way forward for my business? If you answered yes to all three questions, then headless could be the solution to help you to scale up and grow faster. Solutions like Mobify, Prismic, Algolia, Magento 2, Shopify Plus and Core DNA could help you make the switch in gradual increments.
So as we propel towards a new retail age in 2021, the fashion industry has started to realise that the road back to “normality” is paved with complex and sometimes intimidating innovation. Joining the dots between digital and physical not only opens the industry to viable solutions that reduce the impact caused by COVID-19, but it is technologies like headless commerce that will help fashion brands and retailers grab a more significant piece of valuable market share that will allow them to thrive post-pandemic.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Founding editor-in-chief of FashNerd.com, Muchaneta has worked in the fashion industry for over 14 years. She is currently one of the leading influencers speaking and writing about the merger of fashion with technology and wearable technology.
Muchaneta Kapfunde | editor@fashnerd.com
Bluezone Trend Forecast
As we enter a new decade of denim, we see how the ongoing current global crisis does not limit us, we keep each other safe as it keeps us in but WE ARE ALL IN this together. Our denim world is shaped by the world’s reactions, anticipations and innovations. We look forward with strength and prospects for what we achieve today.
The five denim trends reveal the blueprints for a new physical and digital future, our new ‘phygital’ world. A new urbanity shows us a life in harmony with Mother Earth. Ethnic influences brought back from world travels are key to understanding what will nourish us and without a doubt, blow our denim heads in the upcoming seasons.
#1 NEW GROUNDS
THE GROWING IMPORTANCE OF NEW PLAYGROUNDS FOR DENIM
– Urban moves to the countryside, new « utility needs »
– Country is in…new earthy poetry
– Durable quality vs objects of consumption
– Fashion food…denim in the kitchen, cookware and utensils
– Vegan denim…patches & trims
– Interior design…objects, vases, home furnishings & denim furniture
#2 PHYGITAL DENIM
CREATED FOR THE MAKERS AND WORKERS OF OUR FUTURE
– Digitisation in denim design…fabrics, styling, interactive products
– Digitisation in denim marketing… visualisations, communication & promotion
– From fungus to yarn…denim fabrics made from bacteria and organics
– Any indigo fabric innovation but… NO cotton, NO PE, NO PET
– Metallics and coatings… only sustainable will do
– Protection: denim to protect against microbia, virus, rashes, scratches…
– For a work, utility & active lifestyle
#3 THE BEAUTY OF NOTHING
DISCOVERING THE BEAUTY IN THINGS WHICH DO NOT CHANGE
– The invisible beauty
– No design, less is more
– Timeless design
– Subtleness
– It’s all in the detail, of the detail…
– Rugged durability (sustainability through endless product life)
– A life in one denim
#4 WORLD TRAVELLING
MEMORIES OF WORLD TRAVELS AND SOUVENIRS NURTURE OUR MINDS AND FANTASY
– Souvenirs from around the world
– Ethnic & indigenous influences
– Artisanal & crafted accents
– Flowers, prints, flags & rural icons
– Mixing slim and wide volumes
– Mixing international hero-products
– Softness & pampering
– Luxury & simplicity
#5 YOUNGTIMERS
FINDING A FRESH BEAUTY IN THE OLD STYLES OF YESTERDAY
– Recently old becomes recently new
– A proper fit-chaos
– Not so old streetstyles
– Neo-vintage or inspired
– Contrast stitchings
– Violated washes
– Loud and barking
How IoT is Making A Sustainable Impact on Retail
Could IoT Be The Technology Solution That Drives More Fashion Businesses To Adopt A Circular Business Model?
ARTICLE BY MUCHANETA KAPFUNDE, FOUNDING EDITOR-IN-CHIEF FASHNERD.COM
Did you know that IoT, Internet of Things, is all around us? With more connected things than people globally, we live in an IoT-enabled world that has the potential to power, a circular future for fashion and retail businesses. Destined to make a quantifiable impact, the Internet of Things has been busy proving itself to be beyond the hype.
Described by experts as a service innovation tool, IoT has been touted as the solution that will help fashion businesses change how they operate when consuming resources and waste production. Designed to make businesses smarter and more responsive, retailers adopting IoT are not only managing to transform their entire value chain; but they are also reducing the impact their business has on the environment. How might you ask? Allow me to elaborate.
Harnessing the Power of IoT
Responsible for automating the world around us, IoT has been described as merging the digital and physical universes. No longer restricted to wearable devices, intelligent cars or smart homes, IoT is a technology solution that offers fashion retailers’ the opportunity to interact and connect with customers, manufacturers and other businesses.
As a solution that presents retailers with the opportunity to reduce their environmental impact, IoT has become vital in supporting the industry to push forward sustainable measures. Sustainably innovating the retail sector and moving fashion towards a new and exciting direction are game-changers, one of them is Eon. The NY based startup, which partnered with Microsoft last year, has developed an IoT software that connects and stores digital identities of connected apparel.
It is no secret that retailers are more adaptors of innovation than innovators themselves. This is why Eon’s IoT platform continues to play a more vital role in everyday business. Redefining fashion and helping the industry scale new circular business models such as rental, resale, digital wardrobing, peer-to-peer exchange, styling services, reuse and recycling, Eon plans to bring a connected and circular economy across fashion to the forefront, which is why in 2020, alongside Microsoft they pledged to have 400 million fashion products online by 2025.
In an interview at Munich Fabric Start’s Keyhouse, in September 2019, I sit down with CEO and found of Eon Group, Natascha Frank. Watch the interview here.
IoT, Playing a Pivotal Role in a New Retailing World
IoT is helping fashion businesses have it all; commercial growth and a strategic system that allows them to keep their environmental commitments. Through IoT sensors and IoT-enabled data analytics, unique opportunities are not only being brought to the forefront; they are also delivering change. Playing a pivotal role in a new retailing world, IoT solutions are positively impacting the fashion industry because they have created conditions that are instrumental in encouraging retailers to increase their sustainability initiatives. Introducing a new awareness, IoT is helping deliver sustainability breakthroughs that include reducing energy use and carbon footprint, optimizing supply chains, sourcing responsibly and minimizing waste.
So it should not come as a surprise that the World Economic Forum estimates that 84% of IoT systems in use have the potential to meet the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals. Even with the scepticism still being received, IoT is still considered to be one of the largest enablers pushing forward the rise of Internet-enabled retail. Not only has it been improving efficiency and transparency, but IoT’s impact has also helped create conditions that allow for specific shifts to happen in retail. With continuous noise coming from the IoT space it is not without its challenges. Read more on this here.
One of the setbacks arising from this nascent trend is the issue of security and privacy. It is a problem that is slowing down the benefits that the IoT revolution can add to the industry’s sustainability initiatives. With most retailers admitting to not being technology experts, it is this lack of IoT know-how when it comes to security and privacy problems that is hindering the widespread adoption of the solution. IoT brings to the table a different set of privacy issues, separate from the ones we already face with ‘regular’ internet. So what is needed is a realistic approach to privacy and security, that came put in place sooner rather than later.
Closing the Gap Between ‘Wanting to be Innovative’ and ‘Being Innovative’
Although not everyone expects IoT to become a universal tool, it does not take away from its tremendous potential to make a pervasive impact on fashion retailers’ sustainability goals. Still considered a relatively young complex technology, IoT has, with time, become a valued digital technology respected for its ability to offer retailers a unique opportunity to tackle some of the most pressing issues like running a greener fashion business.
Accelerated by COVID-19, the gap between ‘wanting to be innovative’ and ‘being innovative’ is growing smaller. It is a change that has come about, mainly due to more retailers starting to invest in IoT for sustainable purposes. As IoT technology goes through continuous improvement, retailers need to be open to playing the long game because I believe that when it comes to the merger of IoT, sustainability and retail, we haven’t seen anything yet.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Founding editor-in-chief of FashNerd.com, Muchaneta has worked in the fashion industry for over 14 years. She is currently one of the leading influencers speaking and writing about the merger of fashion with technology and wearable technology.
Muchaneta Kapfunde | editor@fashnerd.com
Why It's Time For A Digital Intervention
Why It's Time For A Digital Intervention
ARTICLE BY MUCHANETA KAPFUNDE, FOUNDING EDITOR-IN-CHIEF FASHNERD.COM
In an increasingly digitised world, the present-day landscape for fashion businesses is changing. The technology tinkerers and digital blacksmiths are challenging the traditional way of designing. Digital activity is no longer just focused on sales; instead, there is a new digital approach transforming existing design practices. Reimagining the process of designing, creating and showing garments, digital tools are arming designers and brands with technology created to eliminate the manual steps usually taken in the traditional fashion design cycle.
A Digital Approach To Garment Creation
With optimism towards technology growing, more brands are becoming open to adopting new business models and beginning to find their footing in the digital economy. As we enter 2021, more fashion designers are starting to understand why digitally managing the back end of their business is essential which has meant that we are hearing less of “We know digital is important, but…”. Through digital intervention, fashion businesses are not only altering how they operate day-to-day, they are also taking a step back and thinking about how digital tools could add value to their business.
Moving towards a more digital model presents exciting opportunities, especially for fashion houses, grappling with how to move forward post-pandemic. Created to enhance what we want to achieve long term, committing to the digital process will not only eliminate multiple rounds of pattern-making and model fittings; it will also allow fashion brands to identify and unlock opportunities. Yes, going digital can come with a few uncertainties, but with everything going on, there has never been a more perfect moment to change your internal mindset.
Be Inspired To Innovate and Push the Boundaries
Taking a visionary approach is founder of fashion magazine More or Less, Jaime Perlman. Last year the former Vogue UK creative director teamed up with Microsoft to launch ‘Augmented Atelier‘. The partnership was designed to advocate new tools for an alternative take on design. “It’s really about using technology as a form of imagination and how that reacts with the real world in a physical space. It’s about using technology to innovate and push the boundaries of what fashion can mean,” explained Jaime Perlman on the Microsoft.com blog.
Harnessing the capabilities of Microsoft Azure Spatial Anchors, Pearlman is not defying traditional methods independently; she has Bethany Williams, Phoebe English, Fredrik Tjærandsen, and Rottingdean Bazaar as part of her tribe. Working together, they have been busy bringing forward tools that offer the kind of solutions that bring sustainability, innovation and imagination to the forefront of the industry.
Defining Your Place In The Digital Economy
Streamlining the design process, pushing boundaries and reshaping attitudes, taking a digital approach to garment creation is not a radical choice but a necessary one. Although the digital journey can be challenging, more and more innovative tools are growing in prominence and being introduced to the industry. It is these tools that are giving fashion brands a better understanding of the opportunities that they present. Yes, digital technology is making it easier for fashion businesses to move towards a more digital model, but the question now is, are you, as a business, ready to embrace the change taking place in the industry?
With startup designers leading the way and defining their place in the digital economy, some still hesitate. If you are unsure if digital tools are the way forward, imagine this, having the ability to transfer real-life fabrics to your design. The good news is that you do not have to imagine anymore, thanks to The Scanatic™ Nuno3D Service. Digitally empowering fashion, the company offers a solution that allows for realistic fabric visualisation by rendering the fabric scan in the most true-to-life. It is an invention that enables designers to import different texture maps, like knitted fabrics, woven fabrics, synthetic fabrics etc.
Then there is CLO. Promising to revolutionise the design process by combating inefficiencies within the fashion industry, CLO is a software that can transform a brands workflow. With CLO, brands could bring their business presence to the next level. Offering true-to-life 3D garment simulation, CLO addresses today’s challenges by providing an efficient 3D design process. By guiding the fashion industry towards a future where designers can seamlessly integrate 3D into their operation, CLO makes it possible to virtualise a garment and transform a designer’s entire workflow.
A firm favourite is TUKATECH. The software company has two digital fashion products, TUKAcad and TUKA3D. Created for designers looking to streamline their production process, the software eliminates the need for physical samples and makes it possible to create life-like digital collections. One of the critical features of TUKA3D is that it includes 3D virtual sampling in 5 visual ways, real-life virtual fit sessions and fabric and trims library.
Last but not least is Virtuality.Fashion. Driven to bring your fashion ideas to life, the company has made sharing creations virtually without sending physical samples easy breezy. Powered by C-Design, the collaborative platform makes sharing and collaborating with potential buyers or internally much more straightforward.
Digital Tools, The Ultimate Must-Have?
Presenting new opportunities for an industry that needs to change – digital tools are becoming the ultimate must-have for fashion businesses ready to transform existing design practices. More affordable than ever before, the good news is that the adoption of full-fledged digital solutions has gone from pleasant to have, to need to have. As we enter 2021, the fashion brands that are taking this positive step in the chaotic upside-down world we are currently doing business in are most likely going to be around for the long run, and for those who are reluctant to adopt digital tools, some experts predict that soon it will be too late.
KEYHOUSE – A Strong Network of Creative Minds
Progress and new levels of sustainability. Combining hand-made and digitalisation. The future of the textile and fashion industry is complex and challenging. The demand for greater transparency and information, for innovative solutions, new mindsets and forms of production is all the more loud and urgent.
KEYHOUSE, as the think tank of MUNICH FABRIC START, offers concrete approaches towards a visionary textile and fashion industry, providing answers, inviting discussions and interaction, showcasing new directions and definitions of innovation. In this way, an inspiring network of unique partnerships and collaborations with ambitious projects has been established.
At KEYHOUSE, everything revolves around innovation – be it the luminous jacket from MUSGO TECH, 3D printing and 3D knitting from Cocccon, the solution for a digitally networked supply chain from Lectra, or the Nebudye dyeing process using the Officina +39 nebulization system. Numerous innovative suppliers will showcase their trend defining developments for the first time at KEYHOUSE, including CLO Virtual Fashion with 3D visualisation of garments, Circular Fashion with workshops and software tools for innovative recycling management, and Recover providing accurate colour in upcycled yarns.
“Fashion must take a holistic hybrid approach in order to establish sustainable innovations in the apparel industry as a permanent feature.
These sustainability initiatives can be implemented by integrating new technologies with a high degree of design, disruption and integration.”
Muchaneta Kapfunde, Founding Editor-in-Chief FashNerd.com
HIGHLIGHTS AT KEYHOUSE
THE NUTURE ROOM WITH PAULINE VAN DONGEN. With “The Nurture Room“, Pauline van Dongen creates a space for meeting and inviting exchange among like-minded people who share the desire to redefine the fashion industry. The organised shared research sessions on topics such as workwear, outdoor clothing or casual wear etc. are led by fashion tech experts and show how technology can be sensibly embedded in clothing. Workshops will inspire participants to expand their know-how and connect companies along the entire value chain so that they can follow up with concrete action. Please find an overview of all workshops sessions here.
Due to the limited number of participants in the free workshops, we kindly ask you to register by sending an email to Chantal Gräff at cgr@munichfabricstart.com.
RE-FREAM PROJECT BY CARMINA FERRI. With her project Re-FREAM, Carmina Ferri, founder and CEO of Care Applications, wants to bring together designers and researchers to jointly develop innovative fashion concepts. Designers are invited to submit their proposals for ‘3D Manufacturing’, ‘Electronic & Textiles’ and ‘From Linear to Sustainable Circular Systems’. The winning innovative art concepts will then be developed in the three corresponding research centres.
The SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS Forum combines poetry and problem solving. It will showcase inspiring developments and establish new perspectives on the world of textiles: from extraordinary innovations, new material resources and the combination of the traditional and modern to captivating and thought provoking installations. Discover the following innovations:
- Karin Vlug und Bas Froon see the future of fashion in regional fashion production that is made to measure, on request and using digital technologies.
- CONSUMPTION OF HERITAGE. Sun Lee questions the values of consumers and producers and thus those of the conventional fashion system.
- PRINTING WITH LIGHT. Madeleine Marquardt combines new technologies with Cynatopie, one of the first photographic printing processes, thus opening up new possibilities for modern textile design.
- SEAMLINE PROJECT. Gu Qiong emphasizes the object character of clothing by highlighting seams in brightly coloured yarns.
- SISAL, MORE THAN A ROPE. Isabella Monaco uses sisal for clothing and is experimenting with hydrogen peroxide and sodium carbonate to make the natural fibre softer while maintaining its robustness.
- RINSE OFF. Caterina Tioli uses the properties of potato starch to stabilize unspun wool for processing.
- CT DAIRY. Gal Yakobvitch develops a water-repellent coating for textiles based from milk protein. The result is a sustainable unisex workwear made of vegetable-dyed second-hand T-shirts.
- FOREIGN FORAGING. Jeanette Lili Weiss poetically addresses the complex problem of scarcity and abundance in times of climate change.
“Our goal is to take a look at the possible future with these 8 selected Sustainable Innovations, so that the industry and its professionals can reach the next level. It is an ongoing dialogue. We are a community that is growing and connecting, sharing visions and ideas – it’s a very inspiring atmosphere”.
Simon Angel, Curator Sustainable Innovations MUNICH FABRIC START
KEYNOTES & SEMINARS
KEYHOUSE also offers a comprehensive and exclusive event programme. This includes trend seminars, exclusive workshops, keynotes and round tables. You can find the complete event program here.
Exklusive Trend Seminar by Li Edelkoort – Tuesday, 4 Feb 2020, 4pm – 6.30pm
Arguably the most famous trend forecaster of our time holds an exclusive trend seminar. In an impressive presentation, GREEN WAVE – the Fashion Trends for Spring.Summer 21, as GREEN BOOK – the Recreationwear Trends for Spring.Summer 21, as well as STILLNESS – a Full Colour Forecast for Autumn.Winter 21/22.
David Shah about „The 10 Design Pillars” – Tuesday, 4 Feb 2020, 10.30am – 12pm
The trend forecaster and publisher of Textile View will deliver the keynote “The 10 Design Pillars”. David Shah presents new perspectives on design influences from Slowbilisation to Hopepunk, from Biophilia to Datascapes.
„Fashion Activism” Panel by Muchaneta Kapfunde – Wednesday, 5 Feb 2020, 11am – 12pm
FashNerd founder Muchaneta Kapfunde brings together the experts Kresse Wesling, Styliani Parascha, Marta Waydel and Marina Toeters as part of the panel discussion “Fashion Activism: Creating the Fashion of the Future.”
“United Nations SDG’s Agenda 2030: Challenges & Opportunities for the textile industry” – Wednesday, 05 Feb 2020, 1pm – 2pm
In 2015, the UNGC formulated 17 goals for the sustainable development of our planet and on this basis the “Agenda 2030” of the United Nations was created. Daniel Pinto, Business Director of Scoop, will refer in his presentation to the challenges and opportunities for the textile industry and explain how existing technologies and innovations in the industry can be used to achieve the set goals.
„How automation will change the fashion industry” – Wednesday, 5 Feb 2020, 2pm – 3pm
Five experts in technology, David Schmelzeisen, Ralf Schneider, Dr. Thomas Fischer, Jon Zornow and Sabine Kühnl will discuss “Don’t be afraid of robots – how automation will change the fashion industry” in a panel discussion. Automation, digitalisation and localisation are the trends that are reshaping the global fashion market. Is the fashion industry ready to adapt to new standards? What consequences does this have for the current procurement structure, also in terms of social responsibility?
“The data behind today’s winning marketing strategies” – Wednesday, 5 Feb 2020, 5pm – 6pm
Gina Gulberti, VP Digital Marketing at Launchmetrics, explains in her keynote “The data behind today’s winning marketing strategies”.
All dates and the complete lecture programme can be found here.
MUNICH FABRIC START & KEYHOUSE & SOURCING
04 February 2020 | 9.30am – 6.30pm
05 February 2020 | 9.30am – 6.30pm
06 February 2020 | 9.30am – 4.00pm
BLUEZONE
04 February 2020 | 9.30am – 6.30pm
05 February 2020 | 9.30am – 6.30pm
Interview with Simon Angel, Curator of SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS
Simon Angel has been the curator of the Sustainable Innovations Area in the KEYHOUSE since 2018. For the Munich Fabric Start fair, he is looking for exciting young designers, extraordinary innovations and new perspectives from the textile world. Register now to attend Sustainable Innovations at KEYHOUSE.
Simon, what Sustainable Innovations can we look forward to this season?
Each season, we try to present textile tendencies and new materials to inspire and broaden the context, techniques, meaning and value of textile related topics. Our goal is to show a glimpse of a possible future, so the industry and its professionals can use it to get to the next level. It is a constant dialogue. We are a community, growing and connecting together, sharing visions and ideas – it’s an inspiring atmosphere.
This edition of Munich Fabric Start’s Sustainable Innovations is a prime example to this approach – not only in respect to the responsibility held as a textile fair but also from the attitude and perspectives of the designer’s present. You see their visions in sound-created and laser print work. You feel their ideas in the provocative perspective that plastic is part of our natural landscape. And in the concept that ditching seams can lead to new manufacturing techniques and design approaches. But also, in revaluing materials like sisal and paper and the use of core natural elements like milk, starch and salt-crystals. I am positive that these projects will start a dialogue we can all learn from.
Again and again, the fear of the future, the consequences of environmental pollution and climate change emerge in the curated works. Challenge or opportunity, what do you think?
Your question shows that we are all still at very different stages in the process. Some people are aware and concerned about the transformations our environment is facing. Some are becoming aware of the changes and starting to value what still is. Others are reacting with action, ready to change the game. Specifically that we all have different point of views – with even more concerns to consider. So, there is not one dialogue, there are hundreds. There is not one solution, there is – as I refer to it – a chain of change happening on all levels. Therefore, I there is no “or” in between, instead it is an “and”: We have challenges AND opportunities. All of the designers offer opportunities through different approaches and create change, as challenging as it is.
The use of potato starch, old printing methods and traditional Korean craftsmanship – one could almost say that “back to the roots” is the motto of the upcoming season. Posing the question, where does this development come from?
As designers are digging deeper, they often rediscover historic production processes and design principles, that make sense in the now as well. “We learn from history that we never learn from history”, a quote of a dear friend of mine. Now I learn that there are two meanings to this. The project of Caterina Tiolo is a good example for how changing the order of an old process can lead to totally new approaches – design and material wise. The development of redefining traditional processes and ingredients is really exciting. Or look at “Consumption of heritage” by Lee Sun: She uses traditional crafts and simple materials like paper in a modern fashion context and in that way values her heritage. So yes, if “back to the roots” to you means “revitalise tradition and values”, it is certainly a dominant development.
You are curating the Sustainable Innovations for the fifth time this season. What has changed?
From my perspective, it is not working on changes – we are working on this as a journey. I see many strong developments and tendencies and they are driven by dedicated professionals. Not only business and money-driven but instead also by values. I see that the industry is working on becoming a better version of itself. Feeling a glimpse of shared responsibility between designers, manufacturers, press and media, I am very optimistic. In the end it is all about the perfect couple: quality and consciousness.
2020 – a new decade begins. Looking to the future: how do you think the interplay of sustainability and textiles will develop?
As optimistic as I may sound – the more research I do in the field of textiles and fashion, it all comes down to our individual responsibilities: our behaviours as a human, existing as a consumer in this economic system. The causality of change has two central elements to start with: demand and supply. We have to stop putting ‘the good’ into a colonial and capitalistic context as from the early start of textile history to the fashion world of the now: The more we are aware and the more we share, together we can make this a great journey. Let’s take this chance and restore the enthusiasm to this economic world. Let’s thrive!
Visit Sustainable Innovations at KEYHOUSE on February 4-6 2020 in Munich.
The Nurture Room: Interview with Pauline van Dongen
LET'S TAKE CARE OF FASHION TOGETHER.
During the previous edition of MUNICH FABRIC START, you presented the Smart Textile Pop-up Lab at the KEYHOUSE. What was it all about?
The aim of this Pop-up Lab was to familiarize people with smart textiles, and in particular those created by printed electronics. Through my work at Holst Centre (a leading Dutch R&D centre), I see the potential of printed electronics for the textile industry. These printed electronics are thin and stretchable and the printing process allows for a modular design approach. Moreover, they are made using familiar processes, namely through screen-printing conductive inks on flexible substrates like TPU and then heat bonding these smart “trims” onto textile. Visitors of the Pop-up Lab could see this process up close to better understand it and be inspired by the possibilities.
This time, visitors of the fair can book a (free) session in “The Nurture Room”. View the timetable and register here.
What will they experience there?
After having successfully shown the process of printing electronics and their integration in textiles, it is time for the next step. The Nurture Room is a space to reflect and to meet likeminded people who share a wish to do things differently within the fashion industry. It invites open dialogues addressing the urgency to create new relationships between humans and the clothing they wear.
The aim of the sessions at The Nurture Room is to not only inspire participants, but to ensure that they can follow up their inspiration with concrete actions once back in the office. You will be guided through the session by wearable technology experts: Pauline van Dongen and Marina Toeters. By booking a session on a particular topic, such as workwear, outdoor clothing or casual wear, you can tap into a wealth of knowledge and simultaneously help shape the direction of developments in the field of wearables.
The sessions are meant to connect companies covering the full value chain, in order to collectively contribute to new product developments. Together, we will discuss ways to embed technologies into clothing in ways that can nurture people and improve their wellbeing. Visitors will be able to encounter the latest developments that fall within this scope, such as MYSA 2.0: a “relax shirt” that guides the wearer through breathing exercises that can be felt through subtle vibrations along the spine.
Can you tell us a bit more about your own research and how the idea of The Nurture Room relates to it?
In my own research, I focus on the way clothing mediates between our bodies and the world. Our clothes shape how we relate to the world, they actively shape our perceptions and our actions. I look at how we can strengthen our relationship and emotional bond with clothing and, by wearing clothing, with others and with the environment. When our clothes become active and responsive, how will this affect the human-garment relationship for example? My research shows that when we create wearables, we need to take into account the full set of experiential qualities of the garment, and not just the functionality of the technology. I extensively describe this approach in my recent book “A Designer’s Material-Aesthetics Reflections on Fashion and Technology”. It also includes practical guidance for designers and engineers who wish to develop wearables.
As a designer working between the fields of fashion design, textile innovation and technology, I understand these different worlds and know how to connect them. I would like people entering this space to think very consciously about what they want to develop and for whom, what new values the product will bring to people and how they incorporate considerations relating to the well-being of the planet. This ambition is reflected in the concept of The Nurture Room.
Why did you call it “The Nurture Room”?
Nurture is care that is given to someone while they are growing and developing. The term reflects the care with which we should all treat industry. In the context of “nature vs nurture”, the word “nurture” describes the influence of learning and other influences from one’s environment. I experienced how many new things I had to learn when I made a turn to wearables. In wanting to change the system as well as my own position and attitude as a designer, I also noticed that I needed to shed some of the premises that formed the basis for my fashion education. This learning and unlearning are processes that not many people in the industry take the time for or get the time for. While new perspectives are so desperately needed right now. So, to help facilitate this, our main message is: “Come and nurture yourself, by expanding your knowledge in the area of wearable technology.”
Visit The Nurture Room at MUNICH FABRIC START on February 4-6 2020 in Munich, Keyhouse, Booth #34
Due to the limited number of places available for the free individual workshops, we kindly ask you to register by mail to Chantal Gräff at cgr@munichfabricstart.com.
WORKSHOP TIMETABLE
Tuesday, 4th February
11.00 – 11.45 am: sports & activewear
14.00 – 14.45 pm: wool & tailoring
Wednesday, 5th February
11.00 – 11.45 am: workwear
14.00 – 14.45 pm: intimates
16.00 – 16.45 pm: outdoor
Thursday, 6th February
12.00 – 12.45 pm: casualwear
Looking Back: 2019 Hightex Award Winners
The Hightex Award is an opportunity to recognise the most significant, innovative and resourceful developments selected among Munich Fabric Start and Bluezone exhibitors. As we prepare to showcase the novelties of 2020, let’s take a look through the 2019 winners of the 6th & 7th editions of Hightex Award.
January 29th – 31st 2019 Edition of Munich Fabric Start
1st Place
Becker Tuche from Aachen has been awarded for a new, super lightweight and highly functional product development consisting of a combination of wool and Cordura with spandex. Despite the low weight, the new fabric has a high abrasion resistance and a very high water vapour permeability. The new product is ideal for outdoor styles, streetwear and corporate fashion.
“I am very pleased with this Award. For more than a year now we at Becker Tuche have looked into mixing various clothing segments from fashion, sportswear/outdoor, Corporate Fashion and workwear. Against this background the Wool Performance series combines classic wovens in wool and wool blends with such functions as wind breaking and waterproofing well-known from sportswear. The result is an individually coordinated quality portfolio fit for many applications. In response to the strong interest we are currently developing other fabrics made of wool/Cordura with technical functions.”
Peter Recker, CEO Becker Tuche, Aachen
2nd Place
The second place was received by Soorty Enterprises for “Rain Shield”, an extremely light, recycled and water-repellent denim in Tencel/Nylon blend that impressed not only numerous features but also with its elegant look. The fast-drying, water-repellent, heat-insulating and form-resistant product also scored with a soft grip and subtle gloss finishing.
3rd Place
Mectex by Manifatture Italiane Scudieri came in third place with two Hyperlight 3Layer fabrics and the associated continuous development of innovations and functional materials. The Italian company always finds new ways and solutions to combine comfort and function perfectly and is known for its high-tech developments in the sportswear and outerwear segment. For example, heat-insulating, reflective and ultra-light qualities with water-repellent, bacteria-resistant and breathable graphene membrane that glow in darkness.
September 3rd – 5th 2019 Edition of Munich Fabric Start
1st Place
RDD TEXTILES from Portugal wins first place with a bonded double-sided jersey quality. Outstanding was the jury’s assessment of the development of this new bonding technique through an environmentally conscious mechanical process and newly developed without any additional adhesive. For the filling, 100% Tencel TM which uses an environmentally friendly fiber. According to RDD Textiles this excellent jersey quality, first introduced at MUNICH FABRIC START, is breathable, warming, comfortable, extremely lightweight and absolutely fashionable.
„We are very happy about this award, which we have now received for the second time. The award especially means a lot to us because this now award winning article is a real novelty. For the launch of this outstanding jersey quality, the HighTex Award is a welcomed marketing tool to publicize this novelty in the marketplace.“
Elsa Parente, RDD TEXTILES
2nd Place
Second place goes to M.T.T. SPA MANIFATTURA TESSILE TOSCANA from Italy for a wool quality with 14 percent polyamide content currently offered at a high fashion level. This is ensured by a graphic PU print in a technically aesthetic vinyl look. Abrasion and pilling are drastically minimized by this fashionable way of coating. Ideal for trend-setting womenswear with classic wool properties.
3rd Place
Third place goes to fabric specialist BRUGNOLI, also based in Italy, with a highly functional 3-layer technology. New is the use of bio-based polyamide. The elastic protective membrane is waterproof, windproof and breathable and therefore predestined for outdoor fashion. The first layer is made of extra fine merino wool and bio-based polyamides. The second layer offers a high degree of comfort and functional protection as an extra thin elastic membrane. With the third layer featuring extremely thin polyamides plus elastane. The result is a soft shell quality for jackets and pants that is already used by well-known Italian fashion and function brands.
Amidst the current restructuring of our industry and in order to meet innovation cycles and grant enough time for new developments, the organisers of MUNICH FABRIC START have decided to relaunch the Hightex Award as an annual award beginning September 2020 with a newly designed format.
The HighTex Award is part of an overall conceptual approach by MUNICH FABRIC START as one of the world’s largest textile fabric fairs for intelligent process solutions, innovative highlights, biotech, digitization and sustainable innovation.
„We see the HighTex Award as recognition for outstanding achievements and at the same time as motivation which encourages unique innovation projects. It promotes sustainable contributions towards a clean future and more conscious use of resources thanks to the innovative use of materials. Our congratulations to the top three companies and our respect to the performance and commitment of all of the participants and their innovative product developments.”
Frank Junker, Creative Director MUNICH FABRIC START
Digital Fabric Lab – The Future Begins Now
Digitization 4.0 is one of the most important topics of the future when it comes to process control within the textile and fashion industry. At the same time, the digitization of fabrics in the preliminary stage of the clothing industry still poses a major challenge.
One of the key building blocks within these technical undertakings will be the digitization of materials and additionals. Digital material parameters such as elasticity, flexibility, tension and rigidity must be determined for the realistic presentation of textiles in product simulation. For these physical measurements, surfaces, colours and textures must be captured and combined in a technologically feasible way.
What this process of analysis looks like in practice, as well as how fundamentally this new achievement changes and accelerates production processes, is demonstrated by a DIGITAL FABRIC LAB which will be featured for the first time in KEYHOUSE.
‘We are convinced that in the future there will be a digital twin for every fabric or button presented. Through an innovative analysis process, the speed of the production process can be increased many times over. ‘
Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director MUNICH FABRIC START
In a community showcase initiated by MUNICH FABRIC START, leading specialist companies and university professionals have joined forces to demonstrate the individual steps in this new type of process in a comprehensive and practice-oriented manner using simulated digitisation stations.
/ STAGE 1 /
# PHYSICAL FABRIC MEASUREMENT
The accurate and informative value of the virtual simulation will on the one hand depend on exact physical parameters for the true representation of the textile material. As well as the transformation into corresponding parameters assigned by the simulation material model and on the other hand it will also depend on exact model calculations.
To describe the material behaviour, the basis weight, the material thickness, the rigidity, the elasticity and the draping behaviour of the textile surfaces can be determined and processed accordingly. This makes it possible for the user to make design and fitting decisions on a purely virtual basis, both for products that will be close to the body as well as those positioned further away.
Technische Universität Dresden
Helmholtzstr. 10
01069 Dresden
Germany
/ STAGE 2 /
# DIGITAL COLOUR COMMUNICATION
Caddon’s multi-spectral technology provides the visually stimulative effects of the design’s colours as well as its spectral data measurements, pixel by pixel in a rapidly captured and communicated image data set, thus making a significant difference to single spectral colour measurement.
With Caddon’s colour digitization, accurate colour values are available where they are needed :
- – in the form of digital colour books with comprehensive colour codes for designers.
- – in the form of digital multi-spectral images for visualisations for production and marketing.
Caddon Printing & Imaging GmbH
Stadionstraße 6
70771 Leinfelden-Echterdingen
Germany
/ STAGE 3 /
# FABRIC SCAN PROCESS
The visual properties of a material sample, sized max. A4, are recorded with the xTex scanner within 1 to 2 minutes. The digitised material is then made into a Tileable, block pattern repeated seamlessly with the help of the xTex software, in a further 5 mintues. Tileable means that it is seamlessly repeated and can be applied to larger areas than initially captured using 3D application.
If necessary, in the following step we can use Caddon’s export colour data to colour or retouch the material using our xTex software for a more accurate colour representation. The finished digital material can then be used in Vidya, for example.
Vizoo GmbH
Johann-Karg-Strasse 30
85540 Haar
Germany
/ STAGE 4 /
# DIGITAL FABRIC SIMULATION & VISUALISATION
3D-Vidya offers the best simulation of cut and material. With 3D-Vidya a piece of clothing becomes digitally visible on the computer, creating realistic decision making bases for designers, product developers and all others involved in the creation process of a collection :
Cutting concepts are visualized.
- – A design becomes immediately visible and can be optimized.
- – Details immediately available including drapery, imprints, ornaments which can be optimally placed.
- – Texture and material properties including elasticity or material thickness, distance to body, gloss structures or wrinkle effects can be precisely represented
- – Fabrics up to 3cm with up to 21 layers can be simulated.
- – Colour management enables the binding of colours to be specified by importing spectral colours and rejecting them under a series of neutral lighting scenarios.
Assyst GmbH
Europaallee 10
67657 Kaiserslautern
Germany
/ STAGE 5 /
# REAL TIME QUALITY ASSURANCE
Based on the speed, transparency and accuracy of Triple Tree Solutions, premium quality management and assurance
solutions is ensured in every stage of textile and apparel manufacturing and sourcing. Using the intuitive and modern user interface, our online quality management system QUONDA visualise all measurements and evaluations throughout the chain. The results are available in real-time and accessible by all members involved, across all devices.
Here at KEYHOUSE we demonstrate the process of colour evaluation, as well as provide a summary and evaluation of the results of the four simulation stations. Digital colour matching between the manufacturer and customer significantly accelerates the procurement process, saves costs and also lowers the carbon footprint of the participating companies by avoiding unnecessary transport – Green Sourcing!
Triple Tree
Kaiserswerther Straße 115
40880 Düsseldorf-Ratingen
Germany
KPMG x Microsoft: Merging Business, Technology and Fashion
Every industry is experiencing massive changes thanks to advancements in technology that are leading the way with new applications, services and opportunities. Revolutionising how companies manage, manufacture, market and sell, new technology is transforming customer expectations by changing how people communicate, live and shop.
Nowadays, for a company to thrive, it has to decide its level of technological integration. Easily described as a service, technology is already impacting various industries in different ways. According to KPMG, one of the leading auditing and consulting companies in Germany, one of those industries is fashion, particularly retail, where we are witnessing a radical shift in established brands that are not only being challenged by digital-enabled newcomers but also by customers who are smart, mobile-empowered, socially networked, and able to influence a brand’s reputation.
Ushering in a New World of Retail Fashion
Bringing business, technology and fashion to Munich Fabric Start’s Keyhouse this season, KPMG and IT-lighthouse Microsoft have come together to disrupt the future of fashion. It is a partnership that is presenting business and technology expertise to those within the fashion industry. KPMG wants to make a massive change in fashion by introducing disruptive technology that will transform many things like the means of communication by creating processes to collaborate and explore.
Working together with Microsoft, KPMG has found a new way to satisfy customers through their Omni Channel solution, which enables companies to gain a full 360° view of all customer touch points. They are also looking to empower employees with actionable processes that will fulfil the customer success story. Their end goal is to offer a new way that will successfully satisfy the modern customer by introducing a combination of HoloLens, a new POS system, better process management tools and social media engagement designed to usher in a new world of retail fashion.
Besides the partnership presenting an in-depth business and technology expertise to the fashion industry, KPMG has also taken a multifaceted approach so they can offer innovative solutions regarding customer acquisition, loyalty and reward programs, integrated marketing and social media strategies while enabling transparency throughout production and supply chain delivery. This is because KPMG has found all these topics to be of importance to the modern customer and therefore, likely to affect the bottom line of a fashion business.
Together both companies presented the Omni Channel strategy at the Keyhouse, our visitors experienced how the HoloLens, with integrated digital transformation, can help fashion businesses gain increased brand visibility. KPMG also shared their know-how on how companies can get the first-to-market advantage using HoloLens.
