Sustainable Trims
SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS, Big Changes & New Challenges
SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS, BIG CHANGES & NEW CHALLENGES
AN INTERVIEW WITH SIMON ANGEL
An interview with SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS curator Simon Angel – the Dutchman who is always on the search for interesting young designers, outstanding innovations and the latest novelties in the textile world. You will find Simon and the four SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS he chose this season in the foyer of hall 4 at FABRIC DAYS.
- Simon, what new innovations can we expect this season?
Rethinking old traditions and adding a contemporary note to them can create innovation – sometimes you don’t have to come up with something entirely new to be innovative. This edition ‘the new thing’ is referring to something old like weaving, repairing and recycling. For example, weaving with solar-panels from Pauline van Dongen, repairing as value-creation from Studio Mend or value adding applications by Auxetics and industry ready, recycled bioplastic fabrics by Studio YouYang. All these projects use traditional crafts and materials, but in a new and innovative way.
2. In 2020, the Corona pandemic brought the world to an unscheduled stop. But the crisis has also sped up the movement towards a more sustainable lifestyle. How will this shape innovation?
As you know, I’m an optimist. This year’s developments actually encouraged change. How you look at things makes a big difference in order to get yourself in the right inspired mode. Pandemics or heatwaves are nature’s way of confronting us. Just like we are experiencing changes in our environment, the nature experienced changed by humans for years and is now responding to us. All this is leading us to a dialogue with nature – a much needed one. Bit by bit we realise we exist as part of nature. Designers, scientists, the industry and consumers change their habits and question old methods. Finally, most of us start to realise what is necessary to ultimately save our world. We can only achieve that, when we are searching to find the balance with ourselves and with nature.
- It is the sixth time that you are curating the SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS. How has this year’s edition been different?
The responses to sustainable innovations are new. The dialogue is getting serious. For example, have a look at the location of the Sustainable Innovations forum this year: It has moved from the Keyhouse to the main hall, right in the heart of the industry. Right at the spot where the big changes happen.
- This year’s innovations are all about the material: textiles created out of biowaste fabrics, adapting its shape to the environment – can you give us a glimpse into the material of the future?
With the Sustainable Innovation forum, we present the near future and showcase what already is possible. As you can see, this future finds its inspiration in old traditions, crafts and resources. But what comes after that? It is hard to predict as the world is losing its linearity as we know it. More and more, we are moving towards an era of adhocracy. Transferring this into the material and textile world: design and shapes will not be the main focus of designers anymore. Materiality and comfort will experience a comeback – and we will have to redefine the product development process and all that entails. We have to open our minds and let go of expectations. We have to source from our universal knowledge to create something that in this form has never been there before.
- How can we see the current situation as an opportunity to innovate, rather than for all the challenges it presents?
This situation shows on a holistic level, that humans have to develop themselves and challenge the Status quo. Enjoy the experience as it opens up new horizons which we could never have dreamt of. Look at the Munich Fabric Start, with the Fabric Days they showed how to deal with unforeseen obstacles and ever changing circumstances – a pretty good demonstration of a future recipe for attitude, mental shift and permanent dialogue. So yes, let’s see every day as a chance for a better tomorrow.
Learn more about Simon’s sustainable novelties for the season Autumn.Winter 21/22 during the three days of FABRIC DAYS from 1 – 3 September 2020 at MOC Munich.
FABRIC DAYS AUTUMN.WINTER 21/22
OPENING HOURS
1 SEPTEMBER 2020 · 9.30 AM – 6.30 PM
2 SEPTEMBER 2020 · 9.30 AM – 6.30 PM
3 SEPTEMBER 2020 · 9.30 AM – 4.00 PM
LOCATION
MOC Munich | Halls 1 – 4 Ground Floor
Lilienthalallee 40
D – 80939 Munich
Additionals Novelties at FABRIC DAYS
At FABRIC DAYS from 1 – 3 September 2020, you will have the chance to meet your suppliers and partners in person again. Buyers, product developers and designers will be able to use the three days in Munich to create their collections, exchange ideas and collect inspiration. Besides an inspiring Trend Forum under the motto HOPETIMISM, around 300 exhibitors will present their latest developments for Autumn.Winter 21/22. Save your ticket now for FABRIC DAYS!
Discover here four of the participating exhibitors in the Additionals area:
ADDITIONALS
BORNEMANN-ETIKETTEN GMBH – H1 | C 07
Bornemann-Etiketten pursues the mission of “Driving Digitalisation”. For this reason, work on digital solutions is being continued: Virtual product presentations, 3D prototyping or cloud-based solutions. The Autumn.Winter 21/22 collection presents new exciting batches, patches, hangtags, zippers, transfers and much more – inspired by the busy life in Tokyo, the sophisticated sportiness of Zermatt and the creativity of the Andes. Contrasts play an important role: rough and smooth surfaces, transparency, matte black, exciting geometry. Bornemann also offers new sustainable qualities – currently for example a hangtag made of sugar cane paper or chenille embroidery badges made of recycled polyester.
FRANKENBERGER FUTTERSTOFFE – H1 | B 05
Quality, innovation and sustainable materials are the basis for the Autumn.Winter 21/22 collection. The established Greenlining range, made from recycled PET and bamboo viscose qualities, has been expanded to include organic cotton types. The collection includes soft stretch touches, shiny finishes and versatile print designs with sportswear & camouflage effects.
PIOVESE FASHION S.R.L. – H1 | B 16
Piovese Fashion, a family driven enterprise that has been handed down from the founder father to his two daughters who are currently head of the company, has been making artisanal and original accessories for over 30 years. At first it was specialized in the denim sector, but it has now set its sights on expending its production to the High Fashion world and classic attire for men and women. The latest FM 2021/2022 Collection was the perfect opportunity to introduce this important evolution through a graphic renewal – minimalist, sober and elegant – and highly innovative products.
The Company has also committed to becoming completely green by 2025, and has dedicated the greater part of its new collection to the production of eco-friendly accessories. In fact, over 80% of the Collection uses materials and manufacturing techniques with a low impact on the environment such as recycled leather, vegetable tanning, energy saving production processes, plant based dyes, recycled or completely natural paper, often created by making creative use of industrial residue material.
UNION KNOPF MENSWEAR GMBH – H1 | C 03
Union Knopf Menswear GmbH has used the time during lockdown to take on different perspectives and meet customers where they are.
Hence the new Autumn.Winter 21/22 collection can be showcased offline as well as online, in a virtual presentation room. In the new collection, the focus is on multiple takes on formal wear, which has been reimagined thanks to accentuating and functional clothing accessories.
As every year, Vostex is looking for new ideas, designs and materials. For Autumn.Winter 21/22, the Greek fabrics factory has designed a premium trims & accessories collection with a unique personality and a strong identity. Working with a very rich colour palette, it is an invitation to travel through different universes and realities, conveyed by the season’s strong artistic tendency.
FABRIC DAYS AUTUMN.WINTER 21/22
OPENING HOURS
1 SEPTEMBER 2020 · 9.30 AM – 6.30 PM
2 SEPTEMBER 2020 · 9.30 AM – 6.30 PM
3 SEPTEMBER 2020 · 9.30 AM – 4.00 PM
LOCATION
MOC Munich | Halls 1 – 4 Ground floor
Lilienthalallee 40
D – 80939 Munich
Focus On Thrivability at MUNICH FABRIC START Spring.Summer 21
A PARADIGM SHIFT TOWARDS HOLISTIC SUSTAINABILITY
A new level of sustainability, digitalisation, transparency, a growing need for information and the desire to inspire - that's what the Spring.Summer 21 season stands for
The MUNICH FABRIC START with BLUEZONE, KEYHOUSE and the individual showcases presented by around 1,000 international suppliers of fabrics and additionals successfully introduced the Spring.Summer 21 season from 04 – 06 February in Munich. The approximately 18,400 international trade visitors were offered a broad spectrum of strongly positioned collections with innovative product and trend statements that demonstrated a new awareness of ecology and the increasing relevance of natural looks and resource-saving materials.
The MUNICH FABRIC START has shown very clearly that this fair format is convincing as a strong industry platform in times of changes and major challenges. Thanks to the professionalism and sovereignty of all those involved, the necessary responsibility to approach the reorientation of the market constructively and in a solution-oriented manner has been created. We have experienced this willingness in numerous discussions with exhibitors and visitors during the three intensively used days of the fair. We therefore feel confirmed in our current and future orientation.
Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director MUNICH FABRIC START
The design team of Boss Women emphasizes not only the good atmosphere but also the high-quality and quantitative offer:
We enjoy the relaxed atmosphere here in Munich. All the important suppliers are on-site, so we can work excellently. The main topic is of course sustainability and the correspondingly wide range of natural materials such as linen as one of the favourites for summer 21. There are also very innovative jerseys, bondings and neoprene knittings as new and exciting materials.
This was also confirmed by Theresa Austin, Advisor AKOJO MARKET, Co-founder Paris UIUX, LVMH Group Digital:
I thoroughly enjoyed my time at Munich Fabric Start. The Bluezone and Keyhouse, in particular, were eye-opening for me and I was very impressed at the number of suppliers working with innovative new technologies and methods to produce in more sustainable ways. It was a great showcase of sustainable innovation and it was very inspirational to speak with so many experts on such a key topic. I left both motivated and educated, with a lot to share back into my work.
Further background information on the main theme, the innovations of the season and the trade fair highlights can be found on our HOMEPAGE and in the PREVIEW PRESS RELEASE. High-resolution pictures can be found in the PRESS GALLERY.
FOCUS ON THRIVABILITY
The guiding theme THRIVABILITY met the current mood of the industry, in which future-oriented entrepreneurial spirit meets enthusiasm and a changing understanding of values.
In Munich, it became very clear that the era of sustainability is currently determining all talks and discussions in the textile industry. The tenor seems unanimous: The industry is on the right track and now it is time to take responsibility, turn information into action and create transparency.
Claudia Lanius, Lanius, highlighted the positive approach to a new form of open-mindedness:
The largest portfolio of sustainable products is on display here in Munich. Such a broad spectrum in this density cannot be found anywhere else. All major suppliers are on-site. In addition, there is an excellently staffed accompanying program of panels and discussion rounds. The acceptance of sustainable topics is increasing all the time, which is a very positive development overall. This is also reflected in the competent awards for articles in the ReSOURCE Area.
The increasing interest in sustainability, certifications and future-relevant topics confirms Franziska Dohrmann, GOTS:
Our contact to major brands is clearly increasing and the interest in certified articles is growing. Already on the first day of the fair, we recorded a strong visitor frequency with very good discussions. The increasing acceptance is also reflected in the highly attended lectures of the ReSOURCE Forum.
INFORMATION, RESPONSIBILITY AND TRANSPARENCY IN DISCUSSION
The different aspects, innovations, collaborations and communication concepts were also the focus of the numerous well-attended side events at KEYHOUSE, the ReSOURCE Area and BLUEZONE.
As a trade fair organiser, we also see ourselves in the role of an impulse generator that can generate a corresponding reach. Therefore, we attach particular importance to a qualitative and varied supporting programme which, thanks to international experts, offers an insight into current innovation topics, problems and solutions and thus forms the basis for transparent knowledge transfer.
Frank Junker, Creative Director MUNICH FABRIC START
Right at the start on Tuesday morning, trend forecaster David Shah addressed precisely these challenges in his enthusiastic Keynote „The 10 Design Pillars of Design“. The publisher and CEO of View Publications drew scenarios of new retreat possibilities and the search for structures and simplicity in times of digitalisation and diversification.
The panel discussion on the subject of “Future Textile Supply Chain” with international experts also provided new thought-provoking impulses on how the textile chain can be transformed through sustainable solutions and networking. In addition to transparency, intensive communication with consumers and the development of technologies, product development, quality and aesthetics should not be forgotten as indispensable criteria.
The textile value chain is currently being radically rethought. Every company has to deal with these impulses and develop individual concepts. One thing is certain: in the future, too, only those companies will be successful whose fashion fascinates and who act in an economically sensible manner. Digital processes, decentralized production, smaller batches, shorter lead times, comprehensive transparency and new circular business models – it remains exciting to see which of these developments are scalable and when. One thing is certain: now is the right time to develop principles for dealing with the new perspectives for your own company. In view of these fascinating prospects, a 90-minute expert panel on “Future Textile Supply Chain” is just enough to scratch the surface of the new possibilities.
Alexander Vogt, Kern. Consulting
INNOVATIONS, FUTURE MATERIALS & NEW TRENDS
Knowledge, transparency, quality, responsibility and communication influence the current multitude of product and process innovations.
Linen, both pure and blended with cotton, is the big favourite for the season Spring.Summer 21. Other material innovations were super-stretch silk, recycled polyester, Ecovero-Tencel linen, Naia and Cupro fibre blends or hemp textiles – the constant reference to natural fibres and surfaces was clearly visible.
The theme of Li Edelkoort’s exclusive trend seminar underlines this statement. In her two-hour “Green Wave” lecture, the internationally renowned trend expert presented her interpretations of Spring.Summer 21. Here, too, a rethinking of natural materials and looks was clearly evident. In her outlook on Autumn.Winter 21/22, she favours White as a global colour, on which new structures, styles and designs are based.
BLUEZONE – Reject egoism. Create ECOISM. Rewrite your future
The denim industry is facing new challenges, which the Blue Community faced as an optimistic and international community at BLUEZONE under the ECOISM theme.
The strong network of over 100 major international brands and numerous denim experts was looking for answers to a conscious consumer approach and a growing interest in ready-made solutions that offer future-oriented products, state-of-the-art technological processes and complex functionalities.
Current topics that determine the denim market were discussed in depth in lectures and international panel discussions. The Rivet 50 Talk on the topic of “2020 Vision” on the first morning of the fair gave an outlook on companies, technologies and fashion in the next decade. One of the key statements highlighted the changing demands of consumers – stationary retail can only survive with new concepts, such as offering sustainable fashion, vintage, and repair stores under one roof. This is precisely why the denim community must move closer together.
Alberto Candiani von Candiani confirms that the community spirit of the ECOISM guiding theme determines the future:
ECOISM – I love the concept, the slogan, the theme of this year’s BLUEZONE. It’s about green innovations, which must be visible and tangible, and about consumers who are better informed than ever before and are looking for a new way of consuming. We, as the Blue Community, are responsible for a massive change that will transform what is considered a “polluting” industry into a green model based on sustainable innovation and circularity. Denim can be seen as the most popular, “democratic” and perhaps “invasive” fabric ever made on the planet – and we, the Ecoists, want to change denim to become the representative flag for this revolution.
KEYHOUSE – A STRONG NETWORK OF CREATIVE MINDS
The think tank of MUNICH FABRIC START offered concrete approaches for a future-oriented textile and fashion industry. Information, transparency and interaction stand for an inspiring network of innovative projects and sustainable collaborations.
Munich Fabric Start’s advanced platform, KEYHOUSE, has been paving the way into the future for some time now, connecting innovators and the industry. The innovation space, which brings together game changers and pioneers, successfully gives traditionalists in the textile industry a glimpse of the future. KEYHOUSE provides the space for superstars of fashion technology to present new technologies, sustainable developments, expert workshops and trend seminars. I would easily describe KEYHOUSE as the “Department of Innovation” for fashion companies.
Muchaneta Kapfunde, Founding Editor-in-Chief FashNerd.com
In her keynote speech “Rethinking the business of fashion”, Muchaneta Kapfunde called for a rethinking within the fashion industry. The change is possible and necessary due to the influence of digitalisation and technology. Examples of fundamental changes are block chain transparency, compostable packaging, on-demand solutions and the production of textiles based on dairy products.
In the panel discussion of Sportswear International, international experts discussed how automation, digitalisation and localisation will change the global fashion market and what impact these new standards will have on CSR issues and sourcing structures.
Once again, the SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS Area at KEYHOUSE, curated by Simon Angel, received great attention. He emphasized above all the openness of the visitors to the complex topics, to new materials and material extraction. He said that particularly pleasing was the willingness to exchange ideas, form networks and thus strengthen the community of all those involved within the textile and fashion industry.
The Keyhouse has a unique energetic atmosphere with very inspiring visitors. Especially exciting was the great interest in holistic sustainable concepts that go into depth. So the industry is definitely on the right track
Chandra Prakash, Founder & CEO Cocccon
The future of the textile industry was not only discussed in the seminars and lectures – the MUNIQUE MOODS party on the first evening of the fair also provided an opportunity to strengthen the community and exchange information. Around 1,500 guests gathered in an elaborately staged and specially built palace tent.
