Sustainable Materials

In the beginning, there was her desire to work with a natural, living material. Violaine Buet’s choice intuitively fell on seaweed, the ancient marine plant that formed part of the landscape of her childhood in Brittany. The overarching goal of her efforts: To develop an innovative expertise on seaweed to use it in art, haute couture, scenography and decoration as well as visual merchandising and industrial manufacturing. Because: seaweed can be used in many ways. Whether weaving, dyeing, sewing, printing, embossing, tufting, engraving, braiding or pressing – the possibilities seem almost unlimited.

With her craftsmanship as a designer, Violaine Buet explores the aesthetic and technical properties of the material, develops natural dyeing methods with the support of experts in vegetable dyeing and biopolymer researchers. Using interdisciplinary methods, she combines expertise with craftsmanship, inspired by weavers, leather workers, jewelers, tailors, screen printers, gilders and master glaziers. In this way, she not only creates customised textiles from the biodegradable algae, but also walls, landscapes and installations.

“It’s like writing a story with an inevitable factor of time. With seaweed I have to take into account seasons, species, tides, weight, smell, particularities, colour-fade, hydrophilicity and decomposition, all of which change with time. It’s about everything coming together in a kind of balance.”

Violaine Buet

Turning old into new: material and product designer Sarmite Polakova along with designer Mara Maizele have created a completely new textile concept with their biotextile Pre-Loved. Pre-Loved consists of used textile waste and natural binders. With this product, the designers want to question the traditional concept of fabrics and shift the perspective to recycled mixed fibres. Shoddy is the name for the material made from unsaleable and no longer wearable garments. Cotton, polyester and wool: Shoddy consists of a variety of fibers that are combined into a single mass in the recycling process.

Another special feature is Shoddy’s excellent insulating properties. The biotextile can be used for a wide variety of purposes: in a warming winter coat, in a cosy couch or in a well-insulated house wall. Through colour separation, controlled patterning and even natural dyeing, the fabric also stands out with a unique look. What’s more, the short fibers, which are otherwise unsuitable for spinning yarns, are combined with bioplastics that strengthen the fibers from the inside out and give the material a smooth, leather-like surface. With Shoddy, a whole new kind of man-made fiber is created – Pre-Loved celebrates this new textile identity, bringing a new aesthetic and highlighting the former life of each worn garment through nuances of colour and texture.

“When textile waste meets bio-plastics and together they form a new leather-like material for future fashion applications.”

Sarmite Polakova

Sharing knowledge, saving clothes: 3.3 years – that’s the average lifespan of one piece of clothing. With good care and a few tricks, clothes can last much longer. The digital platform Fixing Fashion has made it its goal to help those interested in caring for their favourite pieces, repairing them themselves or recycling them. On Fixing Fashion, users can find ideas, tips and instructions for protecting worn clothing with creative approaches. Designer Alicia Minaard prepared for this together with the organisation One Army for over two years: In interviews, workshops and excursions, Minaard’s network researched the best practices and methods for recycling and repairing discarded clothing worldwide – and is now making them available free of charge. The result is a collection that you can’t buy, but should imitate or use as a source of inspiration for your own Fixing Looks.

But the Fixing Fashion team is not only concerned with providing information. Rather, the initiators of the project would like to build up a community that exchanges ideas and supports each other in preserving clothing for longer – and thus, not least, in saving textile waste. By carefully caring for textiles, their lifespan can be increased from 3.3 to 4.5 years. According to the American textile waste volume, this could save 1.22 million tons of waste per year.

“The collection is not for sale. Instead, each look is merely meant to inspire. In a way it is meant to trick people, as if this is a brand but then really it has everything and you need to do it yourself!”

Alicia Minaard

Buy, wear, throw away – that’s what happens to most clothes. That’s where the principle of a circular economy comes in: Worn clothing can be much more than waste and becomes part of new and continuous material flows.

What began in 2018 as a project for a master’s thesis at the Weißensee Academy of Art in Berlin is currently supported by Re-FREAM, part of the STARTS (Science + Technology + Arts) initiative under the European Commission’s Horizon 2020 research and innovation programme.

“New Blue explores new pathways in circular economy, aesthetics and production. Denim is a ubiquitous material which is loved and used by many. It is also a significant source of waste. The challenge as we see it is to find a way to recirculate old worn out jeans and left over fibers within the system.”

Denim was always considered a particularly durable material – until it lost its integrity due to increasing globalisation and rapid consumption. With New Blue, the new circular denim, material and product designer Tim van der Loo and techno-anthropologist Sandra Nicoline Nielsen want to change that. In their process, jeans as raw material are cut into small fibres and then bonded to form a fleece. Using a new technology using digitally assisted industrial embroidery, the pattern is made directly on the fleece. Through a unique technique, the areas defined by the embroidery remain intact when the fleece is washed, while the non-embroidered parts of the fleece dissolve on contact with water and can eventually be reused as raw material. In this way, New Blue makes circular and waste-free production of denim a reality.