Sustainable Innovations
Key Conversations: Natural dyeing as a future fundamental
Colour researcher Julia Kaleta is dedicated to strengthening colour communication and exploration into natural dyeing as a sustainable alternative for the fashion industry. What began as a passion project, the Atlas of Sustainable Colours now addresses a real need in the industry by providing comprehensive colour referencing and inspiration for natural dyeing.
Julia Kaleta sat down with Simon Angel as part of our Key Conversations video series to talks us through the evolutions or the work, the challenges of integration with design libraries as well as the realities embraced by sustainable fashion brands and designers making the move towards sustainable alternatives in dyeing.
Can you tell us how you work and the atlas itself has changed since you exhibited at Keyhouse in 2019?
During the exhibition I made a lot of new connections and shared a lot of inspiring conversations which made me ask myself more questions about sustainable colouring. Since then, the project changed a bit, but its main goal to be a catalyst and facilitate the debate on sustainable colouring in the textile industry has stayed the same. I am currently working on a digital platform for the Atlas of Sustainable Colours, nevertheless, it is a side project which I am developing in my free time so this is still in the development phase. I keep in touch with researchers and designers in the field to stay up-to-date with new possibilities and challenges of colour innovation. Recently, I applied for a grant to further develop my research but unfortunately didn’t secure the necessary funding which would speed up production of the Atlas of Sustainable Colours, to make it available for those who would benefit from having it in their design libraries.
What is the next step to this project?
The project itself sparks a lot of curiosity as people are very interested in what the project has to offer, usually following up with messages about how to get their hands on a copy. This shows that small brands and independent designers are in need for a guide into alternative colouring. My focus now is on production and realising my dream to make this book available to buy. In the meantime, I offer services as a sustainable colour consultant to help brands navigate the challenges of natural dyeing. While it is not the first catalogue of natural colours, the Atlas of Sustainable Colours is indeed the first compendium and comprehensive guide to colours made with alternative dyeing methods.
Tell us what you’re currently working on, is there something in particular which is new and challenging you have to tackle?
Last year was particularly challenging for me. Especially while undergoing work to realise the digital platform, it is much bigger project which is still looking for funding to take the project forward. I was invited as a guest lecture to speak with students on the topic ‘Ecological debate in fashion through the prism of colour’. It was an extremely fulfilling experience that has led to my decision to study for a PhD. From here I would say that the most challenging thing will be to remind myself to keep developing the project also way that is sustainable for me.
What’s your viewpoint on colour in fashion?
I look at colour as a tool to create an aesthetic experience. Therefore, I encourage every designer who is in the unique position of power to create new objects, to ask themselves not only about the origin of textiles but also to wonder where the colour comes from and how it was produced. It’s not always easy to find that information, but in the process, you will think more in depth about the complexity of the fashion industry and the importance of questioning the origin of the resources we use. These are the kinds of questions we must ask if we want to make more sustainable products and secure a sustaining life on this planet.
Do you have any advice to brands making the shift from synthetic to natural dyeing processes?
The best way is to open up a conversation with your textile supplier. In the end the goal is to recreate the fashion system, and if you are working with a textile supplier ask if they have in their offer colours made with natural ingredients. If they don’t have it, they will at least notice a demand for change. If your brand’s DNA focuses on optimizing waste and being more circular, it is great to look for fabrics dyed with waste from the food industry or embrace the process of making it on your own. It is important for a designer who wants to work with alternative colours needs to embrace the unpredictability of the outcome of the dyeing process. From a design side of things, it is important to consider the fact that natural colours may gradually fade away. Lastly, locality is a very important sustainable value. What does it mean in the context of dyeing? Look for local dyers in your country and start amazing collaborations with local studios who will dye your collection with indigo, madder or turmeric for example.
Who is your dream company to collaborate with and why?
Oh I would love the Atlas of Sustainable Colours to be in every design school both as a reference and inspiration. Besides that it would be amazing to collaborate with Natsay Audrey Chieza, one of the pioneers in bio-dyeing and a very inspiring woman, who works in a field of biotechnology and design.
Our thanks to Julia Kaleta for her insights and joining us in conversation as part of the Key Conversation series with Sustainable Innovations curator, Simon Angel. If you’re interested in a collaboration with Julia, she’d love to hear from you! Find out more here: https://juliakaleta.com/contact
Let’s keep the conversation going … did this project spark an idea or do you have any questions? We’d love to hear from you, send us an email to info@munichfabricstart.com
Sustainable Innovations presents Key Conversations
As the curator of the Sustainable Innovations Forum, Simon Angel keeps an ear close to the ground when it comes to the latest material developments and emerging design concepts. It’s no surprise then that from years of experience he is an expert in cultivating relationships and bridging conversations to strengthen connection and progress in the world of Sustainable Innovations. Don’t miss to read about last seasons’ developments presented physically in the Sustainable Innovations forum at MUNICH FABRIC START.
“I’ve always thought of the Sustainable Innovations Forum as a podium, the forum is a place where we can have conversations, discuss ideas and share information. It has become a place for connection and collaboration. In times when designers and sustainable innovators are isolated and we cannot meet as before, it is important that we do not lose this connection. “
Simon Angel, Curator of the Sustainable Innovations Forum
Together with Simon, we have initiated a new video series we are calling ‘Key Conversations’ as an extended platform of the Sustainable Innovations forum. Hoping to provide designers and innovators with the opportunity to prompt and exchange ideas.
Even though designers may feel a sense of disconnection as they work alone in their studios, there is still so much exciting progress being made. By inviting designers to join him in conversation, Simon hopes to resolve this paradox and once again create another platform for connection and facilitate an open exchange of unique insights and experiences.
What is Key Conversations?
Simon will invite designers and innovators from his network as well as past and present members of sustainable innovations community to join him in video conversation. We can look forward to the same lively and friendly interaction which is key to getting to the heart of the projects which Simon will bring on board here. Our goal is to offer tangible insights which can led to real life applications and collaborations by sharing these conversations with our online community.
What is the goal of these conversations?
Collaboration through conversation is key. By revealing insights and sharing an open dialogue there is an opportunity to connect and broaden the scope of what we believe is possible for designers and brands. We hope readers of this blog and viewers who watch our videos can connect with the projects on a deeper level and jump on the profiles and websites of the designers to learn more. There is always a chance to take part in the conversation by sending an email to Simon Angel or the designers featured.
What innovations will we hear about?
We are keen to provide our community with an update from our previous participates of the Sustainable Innovations Forum. Especially, we will hear about the progress and growth of their concepts since joining us at the Keyhouse. As well as this, Simon will speak with innovators in the fields of organic material development, natural dyeing solutions, and the use of natural resources in technology, among many more unique and diverse topics.
What now?
New videos and interviews will be shared on our social media channels and Munique Blog. We will feature upcoming articles here in an easy collection coming soon!
Let’s keep the conversation going … did this project spark an idea or do you have any questions? We’d love to hear from you, send us an email to info@munichfabricstart.com
A Look Back at 2020
It is popular to indulge in the mindset that we must put 2020 behind us and as quickly as possible. Ready to leave 2020 in the past and look only to the New Year for the future. As if there lays hope in 2021, like a magic wand it would undo and restart the world anew. But we must look back in order to look forward which is especially the case for creative innovator. In a year confronted with radical change, I can look back and break down general defining responses into three categories as:
Those who ‘endured’ change.
Those who ‘embraced’ change.
Those who ‘ignored’ change.
I think, as an allegory, this is what designers and developers ‘do’ every day. It is part of their daily practice: endure, challenge and ignore. From this perspective the majority of society is now familiar with the same practices designers have faced working in their studios’.
Looking back at 2020 among the broad network of designers and students, I am pleased to see that they have continued their practices. Perhaps you’ll be surprised to hear that a lot of them even made profit from the changes that Corona brought us. Designers from the sustainable front were celebrated. Shy geniuses were noticed and people who were previously unaware of the major flaws in the fashion and textile industry, could no longer ignore the cracks in the system: 2020 revealed the cracks and broadened awareness.
A positive response to change: the focus on sustainability and the sense of urgency to work in this way has never been clearer and has never before revealed the system ‘as a whole’ as clearly as it seems ‘NOW’. In previous articles, I pointed out that designers have a natural instinct to reflect on their contribution, to focus on their niche-solution but to observe the system as a whole. Discover the Sustainable Innovations series on the Munique Blog.
Now, however, the designers are no longer the front runners and exhausted messengers, screaming alone into the dessert. Instead, the industry: mills, dyers, production factories, governments and consumers seem to join forces and come together to solve the bigger problems in the system. This sense of urgency is a huge call for collaboration.
Meaning that our designers are free to take up a new position, leading innovation to new frontiers without the frustration of static movement from the industry. More and more, designers are re-thinkers and importantly, value collaborators. From this perspective I am very hopeful. We are still in a stage of responding to the established system, economy and behaviours … BUT I am very sure that the movement of change will continue to get stronger and broader than ever.
The challenge for now is to keep the focus on virtue, value and volume which has been the focus of our Sustainable Innovations forum since the January 2019 edition of Munich Fabric Start.
Virtue: having an idea about what you do, why you act and how this impacts society and our planet in a positive way
Value: the added value to the system, others and the whole as an effect on a certain act
Volume: think modest and act from need, not from greed
So, the actual risk in times of corona is to stress the choice between polarising OR collaborating; You are either ‘for’ or ‘against’. You are ‘in’ or ‘out’. The nuances, differences and challenges disappear from the stage. In the textile industry there is only one way: bridging the differences, uniting our similarities and cherish our authentic strengths, reminding me of the ‘Reach out and touch’ song.
The textile industry, as a front runner on fashion, can serve as the blueprint for a changing society and business practices. The ‘good’ practice. Connecting with the fact that all throughout history there exists no closer relationship to the human skin as textiles.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
“I’m always keen to bring inspiring topics and sustainable projects into the spotlight through my work at the Sustainable Innovations forum at Munich Fabric Start and with each of my contributions to the Munique Blog. Check out @simonangelmfs for more sustainable projects, inspiration and discovery.“
Simon Angel | sa@simonangel.nl
Cocccon Wins German Sustainability Award
The German Sustainability Award (DNP) is the national award for top performance in the field of sustainability. The 2021 awards ceremony was held on 3 December 2020, as a hybrid event in which the finalists and the majority of the jury members were connected via live video. With nine competition categories it is the largest prize of its kind in Europe. A jury of experts selected 37 winners from 104 finalists in the new Design category which has been introduced in direct support of the United Nation’s Sustainable Development Goals.
Competing companies from the fashion and textile industry offered up a variety of sustainable solutions from recycled fashion to interiors and material development, resource-saving packaging solutions to furniture made from new materials and revolutionary waste reduction systems.
Among the winners were Cocccon, founded in 2012 by Indian designer Chanda Prakash. Recognised for pioneering “Fashion for Biodiversity” and producers of the bio-certified Peace Silk – a non-violent silk, the production of which only allows the silk threads to be extracted from the cocoons when the butterflies have already safely hatched.
“Our need to be fashionable endangers the earth’s biodiversity.
The increase in mass production has become threatening and is one of the main causes of the destruction of our ecosystems. It has also led to more frequent unexpected environmental disasters and resulting climate changes in textile producing regions.”
Cocccon designs & manufactures its textiles with the motto of creativity can care, caring for life and nature.
“We make sure that our designs do not adversely impact the environment. We converted a conventional silk farm into an organic one and processing is done in a new ecofriendly way.
This system requires less water, zero chemicals and zero emission. This has resulted in healing and revival of local biodiversity including microbes in the soil. This confirms fashion and destruction of ecology & biodiversity are not synonymous to on another. It is all about making responsible textiles for the next generations. We call this Fashion for Biodiversity.“
Chandra Prakash, Founder and Designer, Cocccon
All award winners receive a seal which is intended to help consumers determine which products and services they can consume with a clear conscience. Providing increased support for Cocccon as they continue to grow as the world’s largest producer of organic silk.
Cocccon also won second place at the 2018 HighTex Awards in Munich Fabric Start’s KEYHOUSE. This was the first time the innovation award recognised companies for their overall strategic commitment to resource saving production processes as well as innovative product development.
Cocccon were highly commended for their conscious production of luxury textiles and an innovative silk denim. The award winning GOTS-certified organic silk denim is biodegradable, with an anti-allergic finish as standard, the fabric is also handwoven and dyed using non-toxic chemicals. Prakash’s showcased the award winning Peace Silk as well as PET2Silk for the first time in Munich, which fabric shares similar qualities to silk but made of recycled PET bottles.
Prakash speaking about winning 2nd place in the 2018 HighTex Awards:
“The award is hugely important to us because it confirms our product philosophy and gives us a platform to spread the message further. We have been the world’s largest producer of organic silk for two years which constantly motivates when it comes to designing new products. The HighTex jury commended the denim-like silk shirt that requires only a fraction of water compared to conventional denim production without chemical additives.”
Chandra Prakash, Cocccon
OPENING TIMES
2. MARCH 2021 · 9:30 – 18:30
3. MARCH 2021 · 9:30 – 18:30
4. MARCH 2021 · 9:30 – 16:00
LOCATION
MOC Munich | Halls 1 – 4 Groundfloor
Lilienthalallee 40
Germany, 80939, Munich
From Trash to Treasure by Youyang Song
Dutchman Simon Angel has found a talented designer whose innovation makes it possible to create textiles from recycled bioplastics. The curator of SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS presented these and three other developments during the FABRIC DAYS.
„More and more, we are moving towards an era of adhocracy. Transferring this into the material and textile world: Materiality and comfort will experience a comeback”, explains Simon Angle in our interview with him.
An example of this is presented here as part of the SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS:
FROM TRASH TO TREASURE BY YOUYANG SONG
How can innovative products be created without using new resources? How can we stop growing mountains of waste? Use the old to create the new: The designer and materials researcher Youyang Song has set herself the goal of helping to develop an ecosystem consisting of purely biodegradable materials. Handbags made of banana peel, lampshades made of soy milk – the designer processes organic waste into new recyclable materials. This results in products that can be returned to the natural cycle at the end of the product life cycle.
„Our goal is to establish a circular economy regarding the materials and follow the sustainable development guidelines to create our products.“
Youyang Song
Song has developed the “Cooking new materials” technique, in which fruit peels or soy milk are mixed with a natural binding agent. “APeel” is the name of the soft, innovative material created by this process. The natural product is also waterproof and robust like real leather, smells fruity, has a natural texture and is completely biodegradable. Protecting the environment in style: With her project, Song wants to show that environmentally friendly products can be not only practical, but also aesthetic and stylish.
Perfect Imperfection by Studio Mend
FABRIC DAYS presented futuristic innovations of international manufacturers. Besides, Sustainable Innovations curator Simon Angel introduced innovative developments of young designers in the SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS forum.
“Rethinking old traditions and adding a contemporary note to them can create innovation – sometimes you don’t have to come up with something entirely new to be innovative”, states Simon Angle in our interview with him.
An example of this “traditional innovation” is:
PERFECT IMPERFECTION BY STUDIO MEND
A new pair of jeans for 29,99€, a t-shirt for 7,99€. Constantly changing trends, synthetic fabrics and inferior quality: Since fast fashion conquered the world in the 1960’s, new clothes are available everywhere and at all times. What is broken is thrown away and what is no longer in fashion lies unused in the cupboard. More than two million tonnes of textile waste are generated annually in the European Union alone. When did our relationship to clothing change in such a way? This question was asked by the young fashion designer Sunniva Amber Flesland. She founded Studio Mend in 2019 to bring back the emotional and material value of what we wear.
“I am excited by raw material, old crafts and traditions, beauty, and looking for potential where it’s not easily seen.”
Sunniva Amber Flesland
Appreciate, repair, refine: At Studio Mend, traces of wear and tear from through the lifespan of the garments are repaired in a very special way. Island Weave, Edge Mend, Pinstripe Patch, Crossover Stitch: The customer can choose between these four carefully developed technical styles to make his or her damaged favourite piece whole again. In combination with individual colour designs, valued and unique pieces are created. The acceptance of transience and imperfection – this is the basic principle of the Japanese philosophy Wabi Sabi, which served as inspiration for Flesland. Instead of hiding faults, they are celebrated as signs of an eventful life. Visibly and ingeniously, the artist creates valuable, aesthetic and unique pieces as a statement for a better fashion world.
Solar Self by Pauline van Dongen
SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS Autumn.Winter 21/22 #2
Every season, Simon Angel is searching for the four most futuristic SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS.
These four sustainable developments have been presented at FABRIC DAYS – one of them being this textile innovation that combines technology and fashion in a unique way:
SOLAR SELF by PAULINE VAN DONGEN
A dress to recharge your smartphone? What sounds like utopia is already tangible reality. For their project “Zonnestof” (“Sun Dust”), Pauline Van Dongen and Maaike Gottschal have developed a woven textile with thin, flexible solar cells, thus creating new aesthetic qualities and material properties. A play on colour, texture and transparency: By combining the solar cells with different yarns and various weaving patterns and techniques, a wide range of textiles can be produced.
“The creative process invites people to participate, to explore their dreams and wishes as well as to show what role solar energy can play in their daily lives. All participants become owners of the project through their contribution and thus part of a larger movement.”
Pauline van Dongen
But the Dutch fashion designers and researchers are not only interested in embedding technology in fashion. The initiators of the project are much more interested in the social experience of working with solar fabrics and wearing technology on the body. In workshops, the project invites the participants to create their own piece of “solar design” and weave a sustainable future. Instead of seeing nature and technology as opponents, Van Dongen and Gottschal want to make technology something that goes without saying. And it is not only fashion that can gain unprecedented added value from solar fabric: The textile can also be used in architecture or interior design, for new transport concepts and in public spaces as well as for events and festivals.
Living Material by Iris Bekkers
SUSTAINABLE INNOVATION Autumn.Winter 21/22 #1
SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS curator Simon Angel presented four developments for the season Autumn.Winter 21/22 at FABRIC DAYS at the beginning of September. The Dutchman is always on the search for interesting young designers, outstanding innovations and the latest novelties in the textile world.
In our latest interview with him, he stated: “With the Sustainable Innovation forum, we present the near future and showcase what already is possible.”
Let us now present you the first of this season’s SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENTS:
LIVING MATERIAL BY IRIS BEKKERS
Doesn’t fit anymore, doesn’t fit properly: Many of our favourite pieces of clothing lose their shape after a short time and are shipped directly to the nearest garbage dump. Textiles that adapt to individual body shapes and external conditions could reform the fashion and textile industry.
To create such textiles, product designer Iris Bekkers uses auxetic materials in her project “Moving Structures”, i.e. stretchable materials that can adapt their structure to their surroundings. As part of her final project at Eindhoven University of Technology, she has developed a special face mask that not only adapts to different face shapes, but also adapts its filter function to the environment and is very breathable.
More comfort, longer wearing time, less waste: Due to their geometric structures, auxetic materials become thicker when stretched, rather than thinner like most fabrics. The potential of such fabrics ranges from jackets that adapt to the seasons and can therefore be worn in summer and winter, to shoes that change their flexibility and stability as required. Bringing the material to life: For her designs, Iris Bekkers not only thinks about the material and its texture, but also about the context in which the fabrics are used and enjoyed. Only in this way can her designs combine man and nature.
“The auxetic samples are the start and inspiration for a range of products that can adapt and transform themselves, functioning optimally in different circumstances. The potential for adaptability results in more value, more function and a reduction in the quantity of materials and products necessary.”
Iris Bekkers
Successful Fabric Days With Good Visitor Frequency as Pioneer Trade Fair
WELL FREQUENTED FABRIC DAYS SET A POSITIVE SIGN FOR THE INDUSTRY
Noticeable enthusiasm, the ideal starting point for the collection design for Autumn.Winter 21/22 and a good visitor frequency – a result with which FABRIC DAYS exceed all expectations after three successful fair days from 1 – 3 September 2020.
The condensed and business-focused trade fair format in Munich was the first fabric fair after the lockdown and confirms that a physical event is accepted and needed by the industry in these times.
Thanks to the great support from suppliers, the trust of the industry and the close cooperation with Messe München, we have succeeded in creating a pride example for following trade fairs under the new conditions with FABRIC DAYS.
“With the organization of the first fabric trade fair for the textile industry, we took on a great responsibility. After the cancellation of numerous trade fair events, we are particularly proud to have been able to realize FABRIC DAYS. The positive response and gratitude is overwhelming. We are very pleased about the cohesion and also the discipline with which everyone here on site worked together and we are happy to conclude the trade fair as an important source of inspiration with this result.”
Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director Munich Fabric Start
UNEXPECTED HIGH VISITOR FREQUENCY AND A QUALITATIVE PORTFOLIO
“Due to the pandemic, no one could tell what the visitor frequency would be like at the fair. So we are all the happier that an unexpectedly large number of designers, product managers and buyers travelled to Munich to explore the over 700 collections from 300 international suppliers. Many visitors and exhibitors alike thanked us for making a physical event possible after all. Our guests felt secure at all times and were pleased with the personal exchange and the new input.”
Frank Junker, Creative Director Munich Fabric Start
Among the 1,300 visiting companies on site were well-known brands such as Adidas, Aigner, Alberto, Bogner, Drykorn, Gerry Weber, Hugo Boss, Irene Luft, Lanius, Malaikaraiss, MAC, Marc O’Polo, Mey, Oui, Puma, Riani, Rich&Royal, s.Oliver, Seidensticker, SET, VETEMENTS and Wolford.
At FABRIC DAYS, around 3,600 national and international visitors from 30 countries gathered new impulses and inspiration for the Autumn.Winter 21/22 collection. Long-term partners as well as exciting newcomers presented their developments in the 6 areas Fabrics, Design Studios, Sourcing, Additionals, Denim & Sportswear and Innovations – whereby the condensed hall layout offered optimal conditions for cross-segment communication and networking.
HOPETIMISM was the seasonal theme of the visionary Trend Forum at FABRIC DAYS – and was literally experienced at FABRIC DAYS:
“I am really happy to meet our most important partners in person thanks to FABRIC DAYS. I can finally feel the spirit that defines our industry again – experience tactile collections as well as gather information and inspirations.”
Michael Seiter, Strellson
“Munich Fabric Start has always been an important date in the year for our team, so it was no question for us to also travel to Munich for FABRIC DAYS. The high quality of the exhibitors really surprised us – and we really like the pleasant atmosphere here.”
Dorothee Schumacher
FABRIC DAYS AS A PRIME EXAMPLE FOR A SAFE TRADE FAIR
Of course, safety and hygiene had the highest priority during the implementation of FABRIC DAYS. All visitors, exhibitors and contributors showed full understanding and took the extensive hygiene and safety measures into account with a high degree of naturalness and a positive spirit:
“Especially in these times, we are looking for approaches for positive thinking and new impulses. Therefore, for us as exhibitors for many years, participation in FABRIC DAYS was out of the question. And it has been confirmed: The team has managed to organize a trade fair even under these conditions, which has made personal meetings and business possible again. The hygiene measures, such as maintaining a safe distance and wearing a mouth and nose cover, were implemented perfectly and were also very well accepted by the visitors.”
Piovese Fashion
“It was a very good feeling to participate in a trade fair again and to see our customers in person. Fabrics are tactile products that cannot be completely replaced by digital meetings – therefore we are very grateful for the organization of the fair. We always felt super safe with all the clear hygiene measures. In general, the organizers have really done an excellent job, so that FABRIC DAYS can be seen as an example for other fairs.”
Fusion CPH
INNOVATIVE APPROACHES: SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS FORUM & RESOURCE AREA
The foyer of Hall 4 of the MOC was dedicated to innovative approaches. The proven ReSource Area informed interested visitors about the wide range of sustainable fabrics and additionals. Right next to ReSource, SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS curator Simon Angel presented futuristic projects: “From Trash to Treasure” by Youyang Song, “Living Materials” by Iris Bekkers, “Solar Self” by Pauline van Dongen and “Perfect Imperfection” by Studio Mend.
PROVEN HYGIENE CONCEPT AS STANDARD FOR THE FOLLOWING TRADE FAIRS
With the hygiene and safety measures implemented at FABRIC DAYS, we have created a good basis for planning the upcoming trade fairs. Building on this, our team is now looking ahead and starting with the planning for the next fairs:
Spring.Summer 22
8 & 9 December 2020
Spring.Summer 22
26 – 28 January 2021
We are looking forward to your next visit in Munich!
SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS, Big Changes & New Challenges
An interview with SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS curator Simon Angel – the Dutchman who is always on the search for interesting young designers, outstanding innovations and the latest novelties in the textile world. You will find Simon and the four SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS he chose this season in the foyer of hall 4 at FABRIC DAYS.
- Simon, what new innovations can we expect this season?
Rethinking old traditions and adding a contemporary note to them can create innovation – sometimes you don’t have to come up with something entirely new to be innovative. This edition ‘the new thing’ is referring to something old like weaving, repairing and recycling. For example, weaving with solar-panels from Pauline van Dongen, repairing as value-creation from Studio Mend or value adding applications by Auxetics and industry ready, recycled bioplastic fabrics by Studio YouYang. All these projects use traditional crafts and materials, but in a new and innovative way.
2. In 2020, the Corona pandemic brought the world to an unscheduled stop. But the crisis has also sped up the movement towards a more sustainable lifestyle. How will this shape innovation?
As you know, I’m an optimist. This year’s developments actually encouraged change. How you look at things makes a big difference in order to get yourself in the right inspired mode. Pandemics or heatwaves are nature’s way of confronting us. Just like we are experiencing changes in our environment, the nature experienced changed by humans for years and is now responding to us. All this is leading us to a dialogue with nature – a much needed one. Bit by bit we realise we exist as part of nature. Designers, scientists, the industry and consumers change their habits and question old methods. Finally, most of us start to realise what is necessary to ultimately save our world. We can only achieve that, when we are searching to find the balance with ourselves and with nature.
- It is the sixth time that you are curating the SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS. How has this year’s edition been different?
The responses to sustainable innovations are new. The dialogue is getting serious. For example, have a look at the location of the Sustainable Innovations forum this year: It has moved from the Keyhouse to the main hall, right in the heart of the industry. Right at the spot where the big changes happen.
- This year’s innovations are all about the material: textiles created out of biowaste fabrics, adapting its shape to the environment – can you give us a glimpse into the material of the future?
With the Sustainable Innovation forum, we present the near future and showcase what already is possible. As you can see, this future finds its inspiration in old traditions, crafts and resources. But what comes after that? It is hard to predict as the world is losing its linearity as we know it. More and more, we are moving towards an era of adhocracy. Transferring this into the material and textile world: design and shapes will not be the main focus of designers anymore. Materiality and comfort will experience a comeback – and we will have to redefine the product development process and all that entails. We have to open our minds and let go of expectations. We have to source from our universal knowledge to create something that in this form has never been there before.
- How can we see the current situation as an opportunity to innovate, rather than for all the challenges it presents?
This situation shows on a holistic level, that humans have to develop themselves and challenge the Status quo. Enjoy the experience as it opens up new horizons which we could never have dreamt of. Look at the Munich Fabric Start, with the Fabric Days they showed how to deal with unforeseen obstacles and ever changing circumstances – a pretty good demonstration of a future recipe for attitude, mental shift and permanent dialogue. So yes, let’s see every day as a chance for a better tomorrow.
Learn more about Simon’s sustainable novelties for the season Autumn.Winter 21/22 during the three days of FABRIC DAYS from 1 – 3 September 2020 at MOC Munich.
FABRIC DAYS AUTUMN.WINTER 21/22
OPENING HOURS
1 SEPTEMBER 2020 · 9.30 AM – 6.30 PM
2 SEPTEMBER 2020 · 9.30 AM – 6.30 PM
3 SEPTEMBER 2020 · 9.30 AM – 4.00 PM
LOCATION
MOC Munich | Halls 1 – 4 Ground Floor
Lilienthalallee 40
D – 80939 Munich