Sustainable Denim Fabric

BLUEZONE manufacturers convince with the latest finishing solutions

These denim experts show how innovative finishes contribute to a low environmental impact

BLUEZONE #2

24. February 2022

Although our MUNICH FABRIC START and BLUEZONE shows unfortunately could not take place physically at the end of January, we would like to give our long-standing partners and exhibitors the chance to present their latest collections to you online. That’s why we’re presenting the inspiring developments, innovations and prints in all of our areas: FABRICS, ADDITIONALS, BLUEZONE, DESIGN STUDIOS, SOURCING & KEYHOUSE.

The most innovative technologies of the moment? Are coming from the BLUEZONE denim experts CALIK Denim, ISKUR Denim, KILIM Denim and TEJIDOS ROYO! The goal of the high-tech finishing solutions is a low environmental impact – thanks to sustainable dyeing methods, 0% water and chemicals usage and the use of renewable energy sources.

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CALIK DENIM

Calik Denim presents its Spring.Summer 23 collection by prioritizing sustainability with many innovative concepts and technologies:

  • Dyepro – Eco-conscious dyeing method which is water-free and leads to zero chemical waste.
  • Blue-H – Fabrics which include 20% cottonized hemp.
  • Denethic – Fabrics produced at the mill with rinse, rinse+enzyme and bleach wash effects.
  • E-Denim – Increased recycled content with innovative yarn technology.
  • Re/J – 100% recycled content with both pre- and post-consumer recycled cotton.
  • E-Last – One of a kind power stretch product group as weft shrinkage values stabilised for rigid articles’ standard (0/-3,5%).
  • Selfsized – One size fits most technology.
  • D-Leisure – Very comfortable and loose articles ideal for daily and home office life.
  • Fix-Fit – Power stretch articles with high level recovery.
  • Denovated – Authentic look combined with the advantages of today’s technologies.

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ISKUR DENIM

Iskur Denim is owned by the Iskur Group which produces its own cotton yarn with the best possible sustainable methods – it uses its own recycling facility and renewable energy sources for pre- and post-consumption to run all its machines to achieve its zero waste target.

Using Iskur’s knitting manufacturing expertise, Iskur Denim has developed the softest denim ever, called ‘’Soft&Breeze’’, with a vintage look that is both rigid and stretchy. To achieve this 100% stretch denim, Iskur uses the newest yarn and weaving technology. Another concept called ‘’Marble Concept‘’ reflects the denim heritage with its soft-touch comfort flexibility.

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KILIM DENIM

At Kilim Denim, environmentally friendly production is made with less water, dye and chemical use. In order to create environmentally friendly denim, zero caustic consumption is ensured without sacrificing quality. In addition to these chemical savings, more than 90% water savings are also provided. By applying the Cactus Waterless dyeing process and Eco Flat finishing process, significant savings are achieved regarding pollution, water and chemicals consumption.

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TEJIDOS ROYO

TEJIDOS ROYO’s motto is: MANUFACTURE BETTER WITH LESS.

Its Spring.Summer 23 collection consists of eco-designed fabrics, oriented to environmental improvement, from the conceptual stage to delivery. Low impact raw materials have been used like: TENCEL, Refibra, BCI cotton, recycled cotton and also linen. The entire denim collection is dyed with DRYINDIGO and DRYBLACK. This means: ZERO WATER, reduction of chemicals and energy. The collection conveys optimism and joy. Colourful, versatile, timeless and comfortable fabrics for everyday wear.

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These BLUEZONE developments bring back memories of 90s parties! Discover the denim collections that are bursting with optimism and 90s nostalgia:

BLUEZONE Collections #1 >>

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by Chantal Graeff

BLUEZONE's denim trends bring back memories of 90s parties

The next denim season stands for optimism and 90s nostalgia

BLUEZONE #1

31. January 2022

Although MUNICH FABRIC START and BLUEZONE couldn’t be realised physically in the end of January, we want to give our beloved exhibitors and long-term partners the chance to present their collections for Spring.Summer 23 online. We are presenting the most inspiring developments, prints and innovations in all our areas: FABRICS, ADDITIONALS, BLUEZONE, DESIGN STUDIOS, SOURCING & KEYHOUSE.

It’s the memories of parties in the 90s, vibrancy, lightheartedness and optimism that make these BLUEZONE collections so special: The denim experts BOSSA, Close to Clothes, Realteks, Sharabati Denim and Tonello rely on the latest washes and the most modern finish paired with retro vibes.

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BOSSA

This season Bossa divided the collection in 3 concepts. The first theme is 90’s Nostalgia – the rebirth of street style cool again. The second theme is Future Healing – a new era of protection for the fast-developing new world. The third theme is Nomad Tourist – a color palette of neutrals inspired by exotic destinations with desert landscapes. All breathable fibers like hemp, flex or linen that compose the perfect suitcase of a nomadic soul.

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Close to Clothes SAS

With the core values creativity and innovation in mind, Close to Clothes try to renew themselves every year with new collections. This year, the goal is to base the collection on a more environmentally friendly approach with eco-friendly products, while keeping the designs trendy.

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Realteks

Realteks’ motto “Lets MINIMIZE while MAXIMIZING” includes its MINIMAL BLUE CONCEPT with increasing ENERGY AND STRETCHABILITY. It’s all about caring for the people and their lives, increasing values and flexibility: reducing the chemicals while creating new methods and saving energy while breathing more in this great blue space. Denim stands for FREEDOM – because humans are free souls and deserve MORE.

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Sharabati Denim

Sharabati Denim’s Spring.Summer 23 collection brings optimism, hope and joy. Everyone wants to leave behind the days spent at home, full of uncertainty and anxiety, and look into the future with hope. Sharabati Denim therefore designed 4 new concepts to support this idea: Old is New – 70’s & 80’s look; Smooth Operator – soft, comfortable and loose fabrics; Sweat Escape – fabrics that will change your mood; Green Screen – a summary of the Sustainability Vision.

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Tonello

The Laundry (R)evolution is Tonello’s concept in the finishing process. Waste avoidance and resource optimisation are the goals of the company’s refinement cycle. In the finishing process, a laser is used to replace manual abrasion, as well as an all-in-one system that carries out all washing processes by integrating four sustainable technologies. Finally, Tonello uses the Metro software, which processes data in real time to check consumption during the washing process, optimise times and improve performance.

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by Chantal Graeff

Hardwear: The Sustainable Denim Wardrobe

‘Hardwear’ The Sustainable Denim Wardrobe is the collaborative project between TENCEL™ X JEANOLOGIA® X ENDRIME®, made at BLACKHORSE LANE ATELIERS. This garment collection is the result of a unique project, whose focus was to create a true workwear wardrobe based on TENCEL™ Denim fabrics.

The TENCEL™ Denim Team and Jeanologia® Brainbox Team have worked in partnership on many previous projects. Following their attendance at a Denim History lecture at BLUEZONE by MUNICH FABRIC START, they were inspired to connect with the presenter to discuss the possibility of a collaboration. Following a subsequent visit to husband and wife team, Mohsin Sajid and Sadia Rafique from ENDRIME®, in their West Sussex design studio, the ‘Hardwear’ concept was born. Mohsin has garnered a solid reputation as a modern vintage denim designer, while Sadia has expertise in art direction and graphic design.

The brief was to design an authentic workwear collection, inspired by vintage garments from the ENDRIME® archive, using only the latest commercial TENCEL™ Lyocell fabrics, complimented by the application of the latest laundry technologies from Jeanologia®.

“This collection was a real challenge for us, but it was also great fun as we reached back into our own vintage collections and were able to apply all the learning that we amassed from our “Truth & Light” collections”, says Jeanologia® Brain Box Creative Director, Carme Santacruz Zaragozá.

Eight fabric mills were chosen to collaborate, A&A Textiles, Atlantic Mills, Blue Diamond, Kaihara, KG Denim, Orta Anadolu, Stella Blue and, last but not least Candiani, who agreed to supply their 2019 ITMA Sustainable Innovation award winning fabric which is a 50/50% blend of TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ Lyocell and recycled cotton.

“This project was a real departure for us, because this denim category has historically been the domain of 100% cotton. We wanted to challenge that model and we did so by going to partners who are recognised for their expertise in this area” says Michael Kininmonth, Global Denim Development Manager for the Lenzing Group. “As always, we aim to work with what we believe are some of the best sustainably produced denim fabrics available in today’s market that combine the latest advancements in fibre and finish”.

The prototypes were pattern-cut and made-up at the ENDRIME® studio, using vintage machinery. Every detail was well considered and used iconic details from garments that dated from as early as the 1870s through to the 1940s. YKK manufactured and supplied custom designed period-correct inspired Carved in Blue buttons, with washer and burr rivets made in their most eco finishes. The prototypes were then reproduced at Blackhorse Lane Ateliers in East London, a maker of ready-to-wear selvedge & organic raw denim jeans renowned for their quality, community and eco-consciousness.

“Being asked to design an authentic denim collection using TENCEL™ Lyocell has been a dream project for Sadia and I. It has been a joy for us to create and has been a true collaborative project, it’s been a career highlight”, concluded Mohsin Sajid.

For more information about the HARDWEAR capsule collection from the Sustainable Denim Wardrobe, contact denim@lenzing.com

by Alison Baxter