Smart Textiles
Change of location for VIEW Premium Selection
VIEW Autumn.Winter 22/23 takes place in MOC Munich & Coal bunker
Personal exchange and the haptic experience of materials is particularly important in our industry. Which is why we are all the more looking forward to implementing a physical platform again, with and for the industry.
With a healthy mix of confidence and realism, we started planning the trade fairs in the coming summer months and we can’t wait to welcome you at VIEW Premium Selection from 13 – 14 July 2021 in MOC Munich and in Coal bunker on the Zenith site.
Our highest priority: your security! We keep a very close eye on current developments and continually assess the options and requirements for physical trade fairs in times of a pandemic. The most important prerequisite is that our trade fairs can take place safely, smoothly and compliant with Covid-19 for our visitors and everyone involved.
One-time change of location of VIEW Premium Selection
After carefully examining the needs, options and applicable Covid-19 measures, we decided to organise VIEW Premium Selection from 13 – 14 July 2021 – one week after Frankfurt Fashion Week – in the MOC and coal bunker on the Zenith site.
With this one-time change of location, a trade fair in compliance with the necessary requirements for Covid-19 is possible: Besides a spacious venue and outside area, generous stand and catering areas, wide walking paths to maintain the minimum distances, good infrastructure, sufficient parking spaces, nearby accommodation as well as efficient ventilation systems with fresh air supply are provided here. Therefore, the complete trade fair event is located in one place.
The traditional VIEW summer feeling awaits you in the outside area of the Drivers Club, which connects the MOC with the Zenith area. Of course, we will offer our usual services such as trend forums, café bars and free lunches in order to be able to offer you the familiar atmosphere of VIEW.
Rediscover the well-known VIEW premium portfolio
The spacious area offers the possibility of realising VIEW as a satellite concept. We are planning to spread out the individual exhibition areas from one another in order to separate the trade fair across this spacious area.
You will find the areas FABRICS, ADDITIONALS and DESIGN STUDIOS in Atrium 4 in the MOC and the areas DENIM & SPORTSWEAR in Coal bunker on the Zenith site.
All detailed information can be found in the information brochure:
Only with solidarity and loyalty can we realise our common goal for the industry – which is why we hope for your trust and support and we are glad to hear from you at any time if you have any further questions.
VIEW Premium Selection Autumn.Winter 22/23
13 July 2021 · 9.30am – 6.30pm
14 July 2021 · 9.30am – 5.00pm
Location:
MOC Munich & Coal bunker (Zenith Area)
Lilienthalallee 29/40
80939 Munich I Germany
Contact:
Phone: +49 (0)89 45 22 47 0
visitor[AT]munichfabricstart.com
Our Upcoming Shows
For your collection planning: Our dates for Autumn.Winter 22/23 are set!
Our team is ready and excited to get back to doing what we love best: organising trade shows for you. With a healthy mix of confidence and realism, we look forward to the summer months ahead and look forward to seeing you again at our upcoming trade shows for Autumn.Winter 22/23:
VIEW Premium Selection: 13 – 14 July 2021
MUNICH FABRIC START: 31 August – 02 September 2021
BLUEZONE: 31 August – 01 September 2021
Working together with our industry partners, our team is committed to meet the wishes and market needs for physical events with this trade fair planning. Using the example set by our FABRIC DAYS event, which we successfully realised in September 2020, we will of course implement the upcoming trade fairs in a Covid-19 compliant manner, because our priority remains to ensure the safety of all those involved.
Our goal is to present the established, premium portfolio of MUNICH FABRIC START again at our show in September 2021: Fabrics, Additionals, Bluezone, Keyhouse, Design Studios, Sourcing, ReSource and Sustainable Innovations. Don’t miss your chance to meet your partners in person and connect with the industry at our shows. Event registration will be available in the weeks leading up to our show but get ready here and create your visitor login.
In the meantime, please take another look at our DIGITAL TREND SPACE with your latest material developments and our newly developed BLUEZONE Living Page – we are also currently working on a new homepage for MUNICH FABRIC START, which we will be launching soon.
Sustainable Sourcing with ReSOURCE
SUSTAINABLE SOURCING WITH RESOURCE
Every season we see new sustainable novelties and extended eco ranges popping up among many of the collections showcased at our shows. As the majority of manufacturers who join us for any given season will say, if they hope to satisfy the global urgency for sustainable products, it is crucial to focus on sustainability along the whole supply chain.
Of course, we wouldn’t leave it to our visitors to find all the sustainable components they require among some 1000 manufacturers across all four halls in the MOC, Munich. This is why we established ReSOURCE in 2018 as the follower of the previous Organic Selection area to provide our guests with a convenient and efficient selection of responsible fabrics and trims. Making it possible to discover a diverse and fresh showcase of sustainable products all in one inspiring location. Our area for sustainable sourcing has grown into a space where teams discover new possibilities in the world of responsible fashion and textiles.
At each edition of ReSOURCE, visitors can meet with our experts from international certification organisations, IVN, GOTS and OEKO-TEX. The certification seals offered by the independent certifications ensure credibility and build consumer confidence that they are supporting sustainable textile production among many other things. Discover their most frequently asked questions here.
As well as offering textile solutions for a circular economy, visitors can also discover the latest innovations created with resource saving technologies, environmentally friendly processes as well as non-harmful technologies for wet processing. With further developments in vegan leathers and accessories and plastic free packaging solutions also on showcase with ReSOURCE.
With approximately 800 articles, ReSOURCE presents the latest in sustainable fabric, leather, packaging, threads and accessory solutions in recycled, organic, GOTS, regenerated cellulosics, bioplastics and leather alternatives among many more sustainable qualities. The established collection features more than 40 unique certificates to certify their sustainable qualities with new showcases including a biobased PA stretch fabrics by Brugnoli Giovanni, leathers made of reclaimed and recycled leathers by Raus S., a new range of cupro fabrics by Ipeker in varying weights and colours plus a broad selection in certified organics by Life Clothes, Marzotto Wool and Hornung and many more.
Trims, accessories and labelling solutions come with a range of certifications, often showcasing the latest novelty such as biodegradable labels infused with sunflower seeds by Könen Additionals which can be planted and used to grow your own flowers after use. The vegan leather made of pineapple by We Nordic who also produce labels made of Bagasse, the waste product in sugar refinement processes. With many suppliers many suppliers including, Estro, Union Knopf and Nilorn offering a range of buttons made of natural materials such as shell, horn, wood, coconut and plants.
Many exciting updates coming soon to the ReSOURCE online sourcing platform.
Disruption and Transformation in the Textile Value Chain
Disruption and Transformation in the Textile Value Chain
Future Supply Chain Expert Panel Discussion at MUNICH FABRIC START
In the February edition of MUNICH FABRIC START, KEYHOUSE hosted an expert led panel discussion, merging their collective knowledge and experience under the topic, ‘Future Textile Supply Chain – Disruption and transformation through sustainability and networking in the textile value chain’. Moderated by Jana Kern & Alex Vogt of KERN.Consulting with Prof. Dr. Michael Braungart (Braungart EPEA), David Shah (View Publications), Hans H. Jung (Unity AG) and Dr. David Schmelzeisen (RWTH Aachen).
The fashion industry is currently facing unprecedented challenges as a result of COVID-19, especially critical are those concerning the global supply chain. Change is accelerated during these times and it has become crucially important to share our collective knowledge and expertise in order to develop positive, future proof solutions. On the KEYHOUSE stage, our industry experts exchanged their thoughts and expertise, offering their unique insights and key points for further action and reflection.
How attractive has the option of localisation become to companies?
While local production may look like an attractive alternative that could perhaps satisfy a growing standard of consciousness and need to keep up with demand, it is problematic because companies will always seek out the cheapest option, said David Shah as he offered a further insight:
“Turkey will become the new ‘China’ to Europe, just as Mexico will become the new ‘China’ for America.”
On the one hand, there are the typical pressures demanded from the point of view of the manufacturer which will always exists, such as; speed, price, product diversity, range and lifespan, speed of delivery as well as waste reduction. However on the other hand there is now a need to satisfy the consumer demand for those who are seeking a more meaningful experience, individuality and faster to market which is almost counterintuitive.
To what extent will consumer demand for sustainable manufacturing shape current business practices?
While fashion movements, professionals and activists advocate for greater transparency and traceability which can ideally change this damaging mind-set mentioned previously, panellist David Schmelzeisen believes it is still the case that the majority of end consumers want faster change times but at the same time lower prices. He believes that the controlling power does not yet lie with the conscious consumer, adding:
“We need to be more flexible and that is where digital technology comes in and why we will see a lot of changes in the future. For this we need smaller MOQ’s (Minimum Order Quantities) which is leading producers to look for new digital and technical solutions as well as new design solutions.”
How can digitisation provide a solution for more accurate production quantities?
Digitisation is transforming the entire supply chain, the connection between production and actual customer demand is getting closer. Hans Jung believes digital tools offer the unique opportunity to learn what the customer wants, such as with customer interface throughout all the different stages of usage, acting as a systematic feedback loop for optimisation. He states
“Production industries are now evolving and adding additional functions in a much more sustainable way than in the past.”
How crucial is the practice of circularity for the textiles industry in the future?
Circularity is crucial to the future of our industry and it should be explored as there is a lot of opportunity to build on this kind of system within the textile industry. Michael Braungart strongly believes the future lies in opening up the circular processes and materials which conventionally may be contained to only the textile industry. As these may have other relevant applications in production industries across various stages of the process and thus increasing the effectiveness of circularity. He also shared his crucial opinion that where brands use smart textiles, there must be an equally smart effort to communicate with the consumer. It is important to educate the consumer on how to use the product better for circularity to truly be in effect.
Want to know more? Watch the full discussion now available on our YouTube channel.
The Nurture Room: Interview with Pauline van Dongen
LET'S TAKE CARE OF FASHION TOGETHER.
During the previous edition of MUNICH FABRIC START, you presented the Smart Textile Pop-up Lab at the KEYHOUSE. What was it all about?
The aim of this Pop-up Lab was to familiarize people with smart textiles, and in particular those created by printed electronics. Through my work at Holst Centre (a leading Dutch R&D centre), I see the potential of printed electronics for the textile industry. These printed electronics are thin and stretchable and the printing process allows for a modular design approach. Moreover, they are made using familiar processes, namely through screen-printing conductive inks on flexible substrates like TPU and then heat bonding these smart “trims” onto textile. Visitors of the Pop-up Lab could see this process up close to better understand it and be inspired by the possibilities.
This time, visitors of the fair can book a (free) session in “The Nurture Room”. View the timetable and register here.
What will they experience there?
After having successfully shown the process of printing electronics and their integration in textiles, it is time for the next step. The Nurture Room is a space to reflect and to meet likeminded people who share a wish to do things differently within the fashion industry. It invites open dialogues addressing the urgency to create new relationships between humans and the clothing they wear.
The aim of the sessions at The Nurture Room is to not only inspire participants, but to ensure that they can follow up their inspiration with concrete actions once back in the office. You will be guided through the session by wearable technology experts: Pauline van Dongen and Marina Toeters. By booking a session on a particular topic, such as workwear, outdoor clothing or casual wear, you can tap into a wealth of knowledge and simultaneously help shape the direction of developments in the field of wearables.
The sessions are meant to connect companies covering the full value chain, in order to collectively contribute to new product developments. Together, we will discuss ways to embed technologies into clothing in ways that can nurture people and improve their wellbeing. Visitors will be able to encounter the latest developments that fall within this scope, such as MYSA 2.0: a “relax shirt” that guides the wearer through breathing exercises that can be felt through subtle vibrations along the spine.
Can you tell us a bit more about your own research and how the idea of The Nurture Room relates to it?
In my own research, I focus on the way clothing mediates between our bodies and the world. Our clothes shape how we relate to the world, they actively shape our perceptions and our actions. I look at how we can strengthen our relationship and emotional bond with clothing and, by wearing clothing, with others and with the environment. When our clothes become active and responsive, how will this affect the human-garment relationship for example? My research shows that when we create wearables, we need to take into account the full set of experiential qualities of the garment, and not just the functionality of the technology. I extensively describe this approach in my recent book “A Designer’s Material-Aesthetics Reflections on Fashion and Technology”. It also includes practical guidance for designers and engineers who wish to develop wearables.
As a designer working between the fields of fashion design, textile innovation and technology, I understand these different worlds and know how to connect them. I would like people entering this space to think very consciously about what they want to develop and for whom, what new values the product will bring to people and how they incorporate considerations relating to the well-being of the planet. This ambition is reflected in the concept of The Nurture Room.
Why did you call it “The Nurture Room”?
Nurture is care that is given to someone while they are growing and developing. The term reflects the care with which we should all treat industry. In the context of “nature vs nurture”, the word “nurture” describes the influence of learning and other influences from one’s environment. I experienced how many new things I had to learn when I made a turn to wearables. In wanting to change the system as well as my own position and attitude as a designer, I also noticed that I needed to shed some of the premises that formed the basis for my fashion education. This learning and unlearning are processes that not many people in the industry take the time for or get the time for. While new perspectives are so desperately needed right now. So, to help facilitate this, our main message is: “Come and nurture yourself, by expanding your knowledge in the area of wearable technology.”
Visit The Nurture Room at MUNICH FABRIC START on February 4-6 2020 in Munich, Keyhouse, Booth #34
Due to the limited number of places available for the free individual workshops, we kindly ask you to register by mail to Chantal Gräff at cgr@munichfabricstart.com.
WORKSHOP TIMETABLE
Tuesday, 4th February
11.00 – 11.45 am: sports & activewear
14.00 – 14.45 pm: wool & tailoring
Wednesday, 5th February
11.00 – 11.45 am: workwear
14.00 – 14.45 pm: intimates
16.00 – 16.45 pm: outdoor
Thursday, 6th February
12.00 – 12.45 pm: casualwear
Yünsa: Pioneers in Combining Sustainability and Digitalisation
Brands, suppliers and retailers evaluate to digitize their value chain to reduce time in product development, gain cost efficiency and increase their eco-consciousness. Those brands and suppliers who prevent a digital option gain a significant competitive advantage over those that remain static.
We interviewed YÜNSA, as pioneers in the combination of sustainability and digitalization, they will offer a 100% digitalized collection in Spring.Summer 21. This and all successive collections will consist of fabric hangers for quality and hand feel reference as well as digital design and colour cards which are constructed and visualized in Penelope. Improvements in product development are expected to be up to 40% in terms of speed, cost and sustainability.
Digitisation goes hand in hand with sustainability, how are the digital connection tools used alongside the value chain to ensure sustainability?
Sustainability is not only about the raw materials but also the production process, chemical usage, waste management as well as time and energy consumption. Conventionally, as much as 80% of blankets and sample fabrics produced for either collections or customer requests were wasted and could not be used. If there are any mistakes in the finishing applications, fabrics need to be repaired and thus increases chemical usage and energy consumption, creating additional waste and pollution.
Digital product management is completely clean and fast. Developing a new pattern and colour variant takes less than an hour and is open to numerous corrections. With the possibility of simultaneous sharing via the cloud it does not rely on standard transportation methods which wastes time and resources. No waste, no pollution, fast and cost efficient.
What challenges have you faced throughout this process?
The biggest challenge is the resistance of the colleagues, managers and shareholders to the digital transformation. The industry and the laborers of our sector are very conservative in getting out of the traditional way of working. Financial and technical difficulties are easily overcome, as long as the team is open to change, believing in its benefits and supporting the process. We are lucky that Yünsa has an experienced, dynamic and enthusiastic team. Transformation is supported by the whole company. At this point, we should send a very special thanks to our information technologies team.
What were the initial steps of upgrading your sampling process with this new digital sampling process?
It all started with believing in digital transformation. We made the necessary technology investments in order to become pioneers in the sector, including Penelope CAD, Color Digital and ERP software. When our design team understood the benefits of digitization, they immediately took over the project.
We have digitized more than 9.000 yarn/colour combinations. This process is continuous as we create new yarns and colours every new season. For the Yünsa collections, we develop the designs and colour ways in our CAD software and create digital Yünsa collections. These collections will be available to customers in our online “Yünsa Shop” that will allow our customers and brands to browse the Yünsa collections, select and order fabrics, digital materials and make new requests.
Special customer developments are currently being developed in our CAD software and shared with customers via the cloud. The patterns are ready to be downloaded and fully integrated into the leading digital solutions such as CLO and ASSYST. For realistic simulation and digital decision making, the physical information based on measured parameters of our fabrics will also be included in the cloud library.
To what extent do you believe this is the future of production sampling for fashion?
Digital workflow is the real future of the fashion industry. We believe all parties of the fashion industry will experience the digital transformation in 3 to 5 years. Brands and suppliers who provide digital solutions will gain a significant competitive advantage over those that remain static.
What results have you seen in terms of cost and waste reduction?
Not much at the moment. As the majority of the industry is only at the stage of observation, alongside the digital versions we are still preparing the Yünsa collections and customer requests by traditional production means such as handlooms, blankets and sample meters, we haven’t seen a significant cost or waste reduction yet. Brands need to understand the benefits of this future workflow and start digital transformation instead of waiting others to step forward. Yünsa is ready to serve fully digital.
What are the benefits to the environment by embracing this new sampling process?
Digital workflow is clean and environmentally friendly. Expected minimum 40% sample production reduction means less dye stuff and chemical usage, less fabric waste, less energy & water consumption, less carbon release. I always use the “miraculous” expression for wool as the main raw material we use in Yünsa; natural, renewable, biodegradable, insulator, breathable, flexible, resistant and safe. Digital workflow is also miraculous; sustainable, eco-friendly, cost conscious, fast, standardized, precise.
Visit Yünsa at MUNICH FABRIC START on February 4-6 2020 in Munich, Section 1, Stand F103
Looking Back: 2019 Hightex Award Winners
The Hightex Award is an opportunity to recognise the most significant, innovative and resourceful developments selected among Munich Fabric Start and Bluezone exhibitors. As we prepare to showcase the novelties of 2020, let’s take a look through the 2019 winners of the 6th & 7th editions of Hightex Award.
January 29th – 31st 2019 Edition of Munich Fabric Start
1st Place
Becker Tuche from Aachen has been awarded for a new, super lightweight and highly functional product development consisting of a combination of wool and Cordura with spandex. Despite the low weight, the new fabric has a high abrasion resistance and a very high water vapour permeability. The new product is ideal for outdoor styles, streetwear and corporate fashion.
“I am very pleased with this Award. For more than a year now we at Becker Tuche have looked into mixing various clothing segments from fashion, sportswear/outdoor, Corporate Fashion and workwear. Against this background the Wool Performance series combines classic wovens in wool and wool blends with such functions as wind breaking and waterproofing well-known from sportswear. The result is an individually coordinated quality portfolio fit for many applications. In response to the strong interest we are currently developing other fabrics made of wool/Cordura with technical functions.”
Peter Recker, CEO Becker Tuche, Aachen
2nd Place
The second place was received by Soorty Enterprises for “Rain Shield”, an extremely light, recycled and water-repellent denim in Tencel/Nylon blend that impressed not only numerous features but also with its elegant look. The fast-drying, water-repellent, heat-insulating and form-resistant product also scored with a soft grip and subtle gloss finishing.
3rd Place
Mectex by Manifatture Italiane Scudieri came in third place with two Hyperlight 3Layer fabrics and the associated continuous development of innovations and functional materials. The Italian company always finds new ways and solutions to combine comfort and function perfectly and is known for its high-tech developments in the sportswear and outerwear segment. For example, heat-insulating, reflective and ultra-light qualities with water-repellent, bacteria-resistant and breathable graphene membrane that glow in darkness.
September 3rd – 5th 2019 Edition of Munich Fabric Start
1st Place
RDD TEXTILES from Portugal wins first place with a bonded double-sided jersey quality. Outstanding was the jury’s assessment of the development of this new bonding technique through an environmentally conscious mechanical process and newly developed without any additional adhesive. For the filling, 100% Tencel TM which uses an environmentally friendly fiber. According to RDD Textiles this excellent jersey quality, first introduced at MUNICH FABRIC START, is breathable, warming, comfortable, extremely lightweight and absolutely fashionable.
„We are very happy about this award, which we have now received for the second time. The award especially means a lot to us because this now award winning article is a real novelty. For the launch of this outstanding jersey quality, the HighTex Award is a welcomed marketing tool to publicize this novelty in the marketplace.“
Elsa Parente, RDD TEXTILES
2nd Place
Second place goes to M.T.T. SPA MANIFATTURA TESSILE TOSCANA from Italy for a wool quality with 14 percent polyamide content currently offered at a high fashion level. This is ensured by a graphic PU print in a technically aesthetic vinyl look. Abrasion and pilling are drastically minimized by this fashionable way of coating. Ideal for trend-setting womenswear with classic wool properties.
3rd Place
Third place goes to fabric specialist BRUGNOLI, also based in Italy, with a highly functional 3-layer technology. New is the use of bio-based polyamide. The elastic protective membrane is waterproof, windproof and breathable and therefore predestined for outdoor fashion. The first layer is made of extra fine merino wool and bio-based polyamides. The second layer offers a high degree of comfort and functional protection as an extra thin elastic membrane. With the third layer featuring extremely thin polyamides plus elastane. The result is a soft shell quality for jackets and pants that is already used by well-known Italian fashion and function brands.
Amidst the current restructuring of our industry and in order to meet innovation cycles and grant enough time for new developments, the organisers of MUNICH FABRIC START have decided to relaunch the Hightex Award as an annual award beginning September 2020 with a newly designed format.
The HighTex Award is part of an overall conceptual approach by MUNICH FABRIC START as one of the world’s largest textile fabric fairs for intelligent process solutions, innovative highlights, biotech, digitization and sustainable innovation.
„We see the HighTex Award as recognition for outstanding achievements and at the same time as motivation which encourages unique innovation projects. It promotes sustainable contributions towards a clean future and more conscious use of resources thanks to the innovative use of materials. Our congratulations to the top three companies and our respect to the performance and commitment of all of the participants and their innovative product developments.”
Frank Junker, Creative Director MUNICH FABRIC START
