Keyhouse
Looking Back: 2019 Hightex Award Winners
The Hightex Award is an opportunity to recognise the most significant, innovative and resourceful developments selected among Munich Fabric Start and Bluezone exhibitors. As we prepare to showcase the novelties of 2020, let’s take a look through the 2019 winners of the 6th & 7th editions of Hightex Award.
January 29th – 31st 2019 Edition of Munich Fabric Start
1st Place
Becker Tuche from Aachen has been awarded for a new, super lightweight and highly functional product development consisting of a combination of wool and Cordura with spandex. Despite the low weight, the new fabric has a high abrasion resistance and a very high water vapour permeability. The new product is ideal for outdoor styles, streetwear and corporate fashion.
“I am very pleased with this Award. For more than a year now we at Becker Tuche have looked into mixing various clothing segments from fashion, sportswear/outdoor, Corporate Fashion and workwear. Against this background the Wool Performance series combines classic wovens in wool and wool blends with such functions as wind breaking and waterproofing well-known from sportswear. The result is an individually coordinated quality portfolio fit for many applications. In response to the strong interest we are currently developing other fabrics made of wool/Cordura with technical functions.”
Peter Recker, CEO Becker Tuche, Aachen
2nd Place
The second place was received by Soorty Enterprises for “Rain Shield”, an extremely light, recycled and water-repellent denim in Tencel/Nylon blend that impressed not only numerous features but also with its elegant look. The fast-drying, water-repellent, heat-insulating and form-resistant product also scored with a soft grip and subtle gloss finishing.
3rd Place
Mectex by Manifatture Italiane Scudieri came in third place with two Hyperlight 3Layer fabrics and the associated continuous development of innovations and functional materials. The Italian company always finds new ways and solutions to combine comfort and function perfectly and is known for its high-tech developments in the sportswear and outerwear segment. For example, heat-insulating, reflective and ultra-light qualities with water-repellent, bacteria-resistant and breathable graphene membrane that glow in darkness.
September 3rd – 5th 2019 Edition of Munich Fabric Start
1st Place
RDD TEXTILES from Portugal wins first place with a bonded double-sided jersey quality. Outstanding was the jury’s assessment of the development of this new bonding technique through an environmentally conscious mechanical process and newly developed without any additional adhesive. For the filling, 100% Tencel TM which uses an environmentally friendly fiber. According to RDD Textiles this excellent jersey quality, first introduced at MUNICH FABRIC START, is breathable, warming, comfortable, extremely lightweight and absolutely fashionable.
„We are very happy about this award, which we have now received for the second time. The award especially means a lot to us because this now award winning article is a real novelty. For the launch of this outstanding jersey quality, the HighTex Award is a welcomed marketing tool to publicize this novelty in the marketplace.“
Elsa Parente, RDD TEXTILES
2nd Place
Second place goes to M.T.T. SPA MANIFATTURA TESSILE TOSCANA from Italy for a wool quality with 14 percent polyamide content currently offered at a high fashion level. This is ensured by a graphic PU print in a technically aesthetic vinyl look. Abrasion and pilling are drastically minimized by this fashionable way of coating. Ideal for trend-setting womenswear with classic wool properties.
3rd Place
Third place goes to fabric specialist BRUGNOLI, also based in Italy, with a highly functional 3-layer technology. New is the use of bio-based polyamide. The elastic protective membrane is waterproof, windproof and breathable and therefore predestined for outdoor fashion. The first layer is made of extra fine merino wool and bio-based polyamides. The second layer offers a high degree of comfort and functional protection as an extra thin elastic membrane. With the third layer featuring extremely thin polyamides plus elastane. The result is a soft shell quality for jackets and pants that is already used by well-known Italian fashion and function brands.
Amidst the current restructuring of our industry and in order to meet innovation cycles and grant enough time for new developments, the organisers of MUNICH FABRIC START have decided to relaunch the Hightex Award as an annual award beginning September 2020 with a newly designed format.
The HighTex Award is part of an overall conceptual approach by MUNICH FABRIC START as one of the world’s largest textile fabric fairs for intelligent process solutions, innovative highlights, biotech, digitization and sustainable innovation.
„We see the HighTex Award as recognition for outstanding achievements and at the same time as motivation which encourages unique innovation projects. It promotes sustainable contributions towards a clean future and more conscious use of resources thanks to the innovative use of materials. Our congratulations to the top three companies and our respect to the performance and commitment of all of the participants and their innovative product developments.”
Frank Junker, Creative Director MUNICH FABRIC START
A Conversation On Sustainability, Transparency & Mainstream
From slow fashion to mainstream business, materials to education, fashion and sustainability raise so many questions. A vast and complex issue, Muchaenta Kapfunde of FashNerd turned to 3 women making a difference in the sustainable fashion space.
Charney Magri a fashion photographer turned documentary maker. The co-founder of Fashion 4 Change has worked for the likes of British Vogue and Ralph Lauren, and now she is a partner for do epic sh*t. Olivia Pinnock is a London-based fashion journalist, lecturer and founder of The Fashion Debates. She is dedicated to uncovering insightful stories in a fascinating industry and promoting positive change for a more sustainable future for it. Abigail Morris is the Founder and CEO of Compare Ethics. It is a start-up that connects you to ethical brands through the latest online and offline experiences. Since launching in 2018, Compare Ethics is regularly featured in top social feeds and connects thousands of ethical shoppers with brands each week.
On the topic of sustainable fashion, I asked Charney, Olivia and Abigail to share their perspective on the most commonly asked questions.
CHARNEY MAGRI
Do you think that eco-fashion is still a niche market? If so, why?
The day that ‘Eco Fashion’ is just called ‘Fashion’ and is accepted as the norm, will be the day that I believe ‘Eco Fashion’ is no longer niche but rather just common sense.
In your opinion, what are the top 3 things that brands should focus on with regards to promoting their sustainable practice?
I don’t believe there are three focuses on promoting a sustainable brand. However, there are two main verticals in sustainable fashion: environmental and human rights. Both need to be addressed and both need to be made transparent for the success of any [sustainable] brand. As a visual communicator, I want to see all brands talking about this to their consumers as well as the right certifications in place to verify their practices.
What advice would you give an individual looking to start-up a sustainable fashion retailer, particularly with the threat of a current ‘retail recession’?
Research is the first most crucial piece of advice. But the biggest obstacle you will come across is finances. Sourcing sustainable fibres and fabrics are more expensive than unsustainable options and mills will not accept small runs. You must build relationships with suppliers to be able to get the smaller quantities needed, and this takes time. I really believe there is a future in collaborating with like-minded designers to approach companies together so you can fulfil your orders when starting out.
ABIGAIL MORRIS
In your opinion, what are the top 3 things that brands should focus on with regards to promoting their sustainable practice.
1) Create a strong storytelling environment. Whether via online or offline experiences, sustainability is best shared as a story that people can easily back and tell their friends.
2) Be authentic. Nobody is perfect when it comes to sustainability. Bring people on your journey and celebrate your achievements with your community in real time.
3) Strive for increased transparency. Open up your supply chain and show people you are working to the highest ethical standards. Whether you are showing who made your clothes or using blockchain to track your supply chain, people increasingly want to know the provenance of your products.
Do you think ethical clothing will ever out-compete the mainstream less ethical products and dominate the fashion industry in the future? Why?
I don’t think new ethical clothing alone will out-compete the mainstream. However, what is more, interesting is how new business models will disrupt the fast fashion industry. ThredUp found that the second-hand market is growing 21 times faster than retail apparel over the last three years and is on track to be larger than fast fashion by 2028. At the same time, fashion rentals and sustainable fashion are moving into the mainstream. Given that fast fashion relies on volume, it will be interesting to see how and when mainstream brands will pivot towards a conscious fashion future.
Why do you think people are still buying from mainstream shops that sell unethical clothing?
People still buy unethical clothing because there is a variety with a strong product-market fit, and it is super easy to find. Sustainable fashion is making amazing strides on these areas. We increasingly see brands get product quality, price point and aesthetics right, but we need more choice and scale to compete. This has to be coupled with an easy way to find sustainable products. This is why we set up Compare Ethics – we know there are amazing sustainable products out there, it just has to be easy to find them.
OLIVIA PINNOCK
What do you see as the biggest challenge in getting customers to seek out more ethical and sustainable alternatives to high street fashion?
The biggest challenge is the convenience of mainstream fashion. It is far easier to seek out familiar brands that the consumers’ trusts, are fresh in their minds because of advertising and offers affordable fashion with next day delivery than it is to look for alternatives. Greenwashing is another issue that does damage to the whole sustainable fashion community as shoppers are not sure who they can trust.
What steps can we take to increase transparency and accountability for high street retailers?
I think governments have a tremendous amount of power in making the fashion brands that operate in their countries more transparent. We have seen it here in the UK with the Modern Slavery Act and the Environmental Audit Committee’s investigation into a fast fashion which bought CEOs from some of the biggest UK retailers into parliament to testify on what they’re doing about the issue. Companies are not going to give over information about their practices and their suppliers willingly for fear of giving valuable information to their competitors, but governments have the power to say that protecting garment workers and the environment is far more critical than that.
What advice would you have for people that want to be more conscious of their fashion choices?
Start with the wardrobe that you have. Consumers can make the most significant difference by changing how much they buy and how they manage their clothes at the end of their life. There are things you can do to support more ethical brands and put pressure on big brands, but where you can make an immediate, tangible impact is in your own home. Take steps to reduce how much clothing you’re buying, if it’s possible, and when you’re done with a piece of clothing, ask yourself whether it can be repaired or upcycled instead. If you still want to throw it away, can you give it to a friend to extend its life? It’s much better to give it to someone you know will wear it than take it to a charity shop where you don’t know where it will end up, especially if they can’t sell it if it’s not worth hanging on to someone, research how you can responsibly dispose of textiles in your local area through recycling schemes.
SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS: Interview with Simon Angel
You’re curating the Sustainable Innovations forum at Munich Fabric Start for the fourth time. Where are you looking for these new ideas and concepts?
I follow the heartbeat of current and future matters and perspectives. I am inspired by people and products which question the quality and essence of life. This leads me to the roots of the design processes, to the inner core of the industry, research institutes and universities. Textile innovations can be found in all different kinds of areas from fashion to health care, automotive as well as many other sectors. The art of thinking outside and inside the box at the same time plays a central role to find new innovations.
What do the showcased projects have in common?
There are two aspects which unite the Sustainable Innovations: poetry and purpose – and we most definitely need both! We need people who respond with poetry to inspire and open up new ideas and we need the hardcore problem solvers. With this edition we show several projects that provide concrete examples of what the successful interplay between poetry and problem solving can look like. Be it in 3D printing solutions or in human capital or in terms of circular solutions. Sustainable Innovations showcases great examples of what re-thinking and re-acting can lead to.
With regards to the exhibits, do you see any major trends?
I see the need for and can almost hear a desperate cry for contact. People want to develop a deeper relationship with each other but also with products and materials. The overload of information and the limitless possibilities to connect brings us to the essence of connection: purpose. The designers question their activities, relationships, products, services and business models in order to establish connections that make sense. Connections which will enable and explore new ideas, materials and directions. The power to create a new kind of connection is the next innovation: meaningful people, purposeful like poetry.
What can the industry learn from Sustainable Innovations?
Perhaps it’s not so much about learning something, but more about opening up and establishing a dialogue. The designer has their own view of the market as well as human needs and the industry has its own view and perspectives as well – but these two perspectives are not always sufficiently aligned. Therefore collaborations are key: BEyondAWARE!
Digital Fabric Lab – The Future Begins Now
Digitization 4.0 is one of the most important topics of the future when it comes to process control within the textile and fashion industry. At the same time, the digitization of fabrics in the preliminary stage of the clothing industry still poses a major challenge.
One of the key building blocks within these technical undertakings will be the digitization of materials and additionals. Digital material parameters such as elasticity, flexibility, tension and rigidity must be determined for the realistic presentation of textiles in product simulation. For these physical measurements, surfaces, colours and textures must be captured and combined in a technologically feasible way.
What this process of analysis looks like in practice, as well as how fundamentally this new achievement changes and accelerates production processes, is demonstrated by a DIGITAL FABRIC LAB which will be featured for the first time in KEYHOUSE.
‘We are convinced that in the future there will be a digital twin for every fabric or button presented. Through an innovative analysis process, the speed of the production process can be increased many times over. ‘
Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director MUNICH FABRIC START
In a community showcase initiated by MUNICH FABRIC START, leading specialist companies and university professionals have joined forces to demonstrate the individual steps in this new type of process in a comprehensive and practice-oriented manner using simulated digitisation stations.
/ STAGE 1 /
# PHYSICAL FABRIC MEASUREMENT
The accurate and informative value of the virtual simulation will on the one hand depend on exact physical parameters for the true representation of the textile material. As well as the transformation into corresponding parameters assigned by the simulation material model and on the other hand it will also depend on exact model calculations.
To describe the material behaviour, the basis weight, the material thickness, the rigidity, the elasticity and the draping behaviour of the textile surfaces can be determined and processed accordingly. This makes it possible for the user to make design and fitting decisions on a purely virtual basis, both for products that will be close to the body as well as those positioned further away.
Technische Universität Dresden
Helmholtzstr. 10
01069 Dresden
Germany
/ STAGE 2 /
# DIGITAL COLOUR COMMUNICATION
Caddon’s multi-spectral technology provides the visually stimulative effects of the design’s colours as well as its spectral data measurements, pixel by pixel in a rapidly captured and communicated image data set, thus making a significant difference to single spectral colour measurement.
With Caddon’s colour digitization, accurate colour values are available where they are needed :
- – in the form of digital colour books with comprehensive colour codes for designers.
- – in the form of digital multi-spectral images for visualisations for production and marketing.
Caddon Printing & Imaging GmbH
Stadionstraße 6
70771 Leinfelden-Echterdingen
Germany
/ STAGE 3 /
# FABRIC SCAN PROCESS
The visual properties of a material sample, sized max. A4, are recorded with the xTex scanner within 1 to 2 minutes. The digitised material is then made into a Tileable, block pattern repeated seamlessly with the help of the xTex software, in a further 5 mintues. Tileable means that it is seamlessly repeated and can be applied to larger areas than initially captured using 3D application.
If necessary, in the following step we can use Caddon’s export colour data to colour or retouch the material using our xTex software for a more accurate colour representation. The finished digital material can then be used in Vidya, for example.
Vizoo GmbH
Johann-Karg-Strasse 30
85540 Haar
Germany
/ STAGE 4 /
# DIGITAL FABRIC SIMULATION & VISUALISATION
3D-Vidya offers the best simulation of cut and material. With 3D-Vidya a piece of clothing becomes digitally visible on the computer, creating realistic decision making bases for designers, product developers and all others involved in the creation process of a collection :
Cutting concepts are visualized.
- – A design becomes immediately visible and can be optimized.
- – Details immediately available including drapery, imprints, ornaments which can be optimally placed.
- – Texture and material properties including elasticity or material thickness, distance to body, gloss structures or wrinkle effects can be precisely represented
- – Fabrics up to 3cm with up to 21 layers can be simulated.
- – Colour management enables the binding of colours to be specified by importing spectral colours and rejecting them under a series of neutral lighting scenarios.
Assyst GmbH
Europaallee 10
67657 Kaiserslautern
Germany
/ STAGE 5 /
# REAL TIME QUALITY ASSURANCE
Based on the speed, transparency and accuracy of Triple Tree Solutions, premium quality management and assurance
solutions is ensured in every stage of textile and apparel manufacturing and sourcing. Using the intuitive and modern user interface, our online quality management system QUONDA visualise all measurements and evaluations throughout the chain. The results are available in real-time and accessible by all members involved, across all devices.
Here at KEYHOUSE we demonstrate the process of colour evaluation, as well as provide a summary and evaluation of the results of the four simulation stations. Digital colour matching between the manufacturer and customer significantly accelerates the procurement process, saves costs and also lowers the carbon footprint of the participating companies by avoiding unnecessary transport – Green Sourcing!
Triple Tree
Kaiserswerther Straße 115
40880 Düsseldorf-Ratingen
Germany
KPMG x Microsoft: Merging Business, Technology and Fashion
Every industry is experiencing massive changes thanks to advancements in technology that are leading the way with new applications, services and opportunities. Revolutionising how companies manage, manufacture, market and sell, new technology is transforming customer expectations by changing how people communicate, live and shop.
Nowadays, for a company to thrive, it has to decide its level of technological integration. Easily described as a service, technology is already impacting various industries in different ways. According to KPMG, one of the leading auditing and consulting companies in Germany, one of those industries is fashion, particularly retail, where we are witnessing a radical shift in established brands that are not only being challenged by digital-enabled newcomers but also by customers who are smart, mobile-empowered, socially networked, and able to influence a brand’s reputation.
Ushering in a New World of Retail Fashion
Bringing business, technology and fashion to Munich Fabric Start’s Keyhouse this season, KPMG and IT-lighthouse Microsoft have come together to disrupt the future of fashion. It is a partnership that is presenting business and technology expertise to those within the fashion industry. KPMG wants to make a massive change in fashion by introducing disruptive technology that will transform many things like the means of communication by creating processes to collaborate and explore.
Working together with Microsoft, KPMG has found a new way to satisfy customers through their Omni Channel solution, which enables companies to gain a full 360° view of all customer touch points. They are also looking to empower employees with actionable processes that will fulfil the customer success story. Their end goal is to offer a new way that will successfully satisfy the modern customer by introducing a combination of HoloLens, a new POS system, better process management tools and social media engagement designed to usher in a new world of retail fashion.
Besides the partnership presenting an in-depth business and technology expertise to the fashion industry, KPMG has also taken a multifaceted approach so they can offer innovative solutions regarding customer acquisition, loyalty and reward programs, integrated marketing and social media strategies while enabling transparency throughout production and supply chain delivery. This is because KPMG has found all these topics to be of importance to the modern customer and therefore, likely to affect the bottom line of a fashion business.
Together both companies presented the Omni Channel strategy at the Keyhouse, our visitors experienced how the HoloLens, with integrated digital transformation, can help fashion businesses gain increased brand visibility. KPMG also shared their know-how on how companies can get the first-to-market advantage using HoloLens.
KEYHOUSE - From Poetry to Digitalisation
As a think tank for fashion tech, smart textiles, sustainability and innovation, KEYHOUSE offers concrete approaches for a future-oriented textile and fashion industry. It spans the spectrum from technology to sustainability, from digitalisation to new material resources and manufacturing processes. The mindset of ‘democratic’ research projects, inspiring collaborations and networks as well as high-tech product and process development reflects the pulsating mood of KEYHOUSE at MUNICH FABRIC START.
Those attending include:
Smart Textiles Pop-Up Lab by Holst Centre x Pauline van Dongen featuring interactive workshops on printing electronics on textiles. As a Dutch research hub, the Holst Centre specialises in the development of printed electronics. Unlike conventional electronics, these circuits are thin, lightweight, flexible and even stretchable. They make it possible to make all kinds of products and materials interactive. The material properties of these printed electronics make them particularly suitable for integration in textiles.
KNITCLOUD by N.I.O. combines sustainability and digitalisation with the launch of a personalised 3D knitwear-on-demand brand at the Keyhouse, which as a smart network offers a future-oriented, sustainable answer to today’s overconsumption of clothing. What began with initial tests by start-up company The Girl and The Machine has now developed into a market-ready brand for custom-made 3D knitwear on demand that will be scalable in the future. Knitcloud by N.I.O. (New Industrial Order) will allow brands, designers and web shops to connect virtual designs, body measurement apps, virtual fitting solutions and a digital tailor system (DTS) with a subsequent on-demand ordering system (ONOS). In future, this smart concept will make it possible to produce customised and personalised clothing – as the world’s first open ecosystem for 3D knitwear on demand.
KPMG, one of the leading auditing and consulting firms in Germany, will deliver a unique fusion of business, technology and fashion to the KEYHOUSE this season together with the global IT group Microsoft. This partnership is dedicated to business and technology systems for the fashion industry. The launch of disruptive technologies such as HoloLens, a new POS system, better process management tools and integrated social media engagement will satisfy the modern, demanding customer of the future, ensuring a new era for fashion retailing.
DIGITAL FABRIC LAB
As a joint showcase initiated by MUNICH FABRIC START, the leading specialist firms Assyst, Caddon, Vizoo, Triple Tree Solutions and the University of Dresden have joined forces to present a new type of digitalisation process for fabrics in a comprehensible and practical way through simulated digitalisation stations. The DIGITAL FABRIC LAB demonstrates a new form of analysis process that overhauls production and accelerates it many times over. Digital material parameters such as elasticity, flexibility, tension and rigidity are determined for the realistic use of textiles in product simulation. For these physical measurements, surfaces, colours and textures must be recorded and collated in a technologically presentable way.
‘Digitalisation 4.0 is certainly one of the key issues when it comes to future process controls. One of the essential building blocks within these major technical changes will be the digitalisation of fabrics and additionals. For each fabric and each button there will be a digital ‘twin’.’
Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director MUNICH FABRIC START
SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS
Creating alternative materials from unusual resources, instructions for a new approach to textiles and clothing and the rediscovery of traditional crafts – the SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS Forum will showcase it all, discover:
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- PHERES & AUXTEX by Eric Esser, with the creation of CAD files thanks to the 3D printing process FDM (Fused Deposition Modelling).
- Atlas of Sustainable Colour(s) by JULIA KALETA as a sustainable colour compass.
- LOOP.A.LIFE with a circular approach to extending the life cycle of textiles.
- LOOP COLLABORATION STUDIO as an integrative movement of socially oriented resource exploitation.
- WORN TO WEAR by Lena Winterink interprets the conscious handling of clothing through the use of copper wire in the yarn.
- SWART LAEKEN by Lotte Gulpers present high-quality items made of premium wool as a sustainable raw material.
- DYELUX by Nikolett Madai uses by-products from the food industry to produce dyestuffs for textiles.
- KNOT by Sanne Visser looks at horn as a raw material from a new angle and creates yarns, ropes and nets from hair.
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With these selected showcases at KEYHOUSE we give impulses and solutions for a future-oriented use of materials and marketable production processes. This offers great potential for synergies and collaborations, which – used at the right interface and linked together – will have a lasting impact on industry. This season we have once again succeeded in mapping out a broad range of relevant topics for the future.’
Claudia Mynott, Communications Director MUNICH FABRIC START
HIGHTEX AWARD
The HighTex Award will be presented for the 7th time. The MUNICH FABRIC START Innovation Prize honours outstanding initiatives and commitment in the fields of intelligent process solutions, innovative highlights, biotechnology, digitalisation and sustainable innovations.
‘We present the HighTex Award in recognition of outstanding achievements and, at the same time, as a motivation for innovative research projects and thus as a sustainable contribution to a clean future and conscious use of resources.’
Frank Junker, Creative Director, MUNICH FABRIC START
Candidates are assessed according to the following categories: High-Tex, Technology, Smart Fibres, Sustainability, Resource Efficiency, Finishing, Functionality, Health and Circularity Process. An essential principle here is process realisation and marketability. The award winning products and other innovations in the KEYHOUSE HighTex Award Forum will be on display for the entire duration of the trade fair. Supplemented by detailed information on the respective exhibited products including contact information.
SIDE EVENTS
Furthermore, KEYHOUSE offers a comprehensive and exclusive programme of side events throughout the duration of the trade fair. In addition to trend seminars, these include top-class workshops, talks and round table discussions.
The entire lecture programme can be found at >> events.munichfabricstart.com
An Introduction to the Events Program at MUNICH FABRIC START
The event program on offer at Munich Fabric Start is a reflection on the issues, strategies and common themes the industry as a collective are facing right now. Through a series of seminars, panel discussions and keynote talks, we are equipping our visitors with the necessary tools and know-how to grow their brand and business successfully during these times.
Discover the events which are tailor-made for your business, check out our complete event program and begin to plan your trade fair visit. Here are our highlights from each of our event platforms at Keyhouse, ReSource and Denim Dock.
Create Future at Keyhouse
TUESDAY 3rd of September
SusTECHability Panel Discussion
11.30am – 1.00pm
SusTECHability – How trends and technology influence sustainability in fashion.
With Li Edelkoort of Trend Union, Michael Stnaley-Jones of United Nations Environment Programme, Tricia Carey of Lenzing Fibers, Natasha Franck of EON Group Holdings and Erik Bang of H&M Foundation. Moderated by Jana Kern and Alex Vogt of KERN Consulting.
EN
Swarovski Talk
2.00pm – 3.00pm
Trend Technik Design
With Dr Ralf Weinbeger and Christel Wickerath of Swarovski.
DE
Li Edelkoort Trend Presentation
4.00pm – 6.30pm
BROWN AGE – Fashion, Shapes, Textiles and Colours for AUTUMN/WINTER 20/21
GREEN WAVE – New Colours for SPRING/SUMMER 2021
RECREATION – Casual Wear Trends and Colours
MEET & GREET – Drinks with Li Edelkoort
EN
WEDNESDAY 4th of September
Fashnerd Panel
10.30am – 11.30am
Reshaping the Fashion Industry for good
With Muchaneta Kapfunde of FashNerd, Charney Magri of Fashion 4 Change and Do Epic Sh*t, Olivia Pinnock of The Fashion Debates and Abigail Morris of Compare Ethics.
EN
EON Group
11.30am – 12.30pm
Circular ID – The Digital Foundation for Circular Economy
With Natasha Franck at EON Group Holdings and Maruschka Loubser of Brand Marketing and Partnerships Microsoft
EN
Archroma
5.00pm – 6.00pm
Break new ground with aniline-free indigo for denim
With Albert Llort of Global Competence Center Denim
EN
THURSDAY 5th of September
FashNerd Keynote
11.00am – 12.00pm
From Seaweed to Fiber, Is Biology The Future of Fashion?
With Muchaneta Kapfunde of FashNerd
EN
Taking place in the lecture area in Keyhouse, Hall 5.
Let’s ReSource
TUESDAY 3rd of September
Lenzing
12.00pm – 1.00pm
Towards a circular economy – A fiber producer’s view
With Caroline Ledl of LENZING Group
DE
WEDNESDAY 4th of September
Oeko-Tex
1.00pm – 2.00pm
Sustainability leads to economic efficiency
With Dirk Schafer of Oeko-Tex
EN
THURSDAY 5th of September
s.Oliver Group
1.00pm – 2.00pm
WE CARE – The Sustainable Program by s.Oliver Group
With Astrid Schodel of s.Oliver Group
DE
Taking place in the lecture area in the MOC, ReSource k4 Area Foyer Hall 4.
Let Them Know at Denim Dock
TUESDAY 3rd of September
Panel Discussion
11.00am – 12.00pm
The Greendigo REvolution Panel Discussion
With Albert Llort of Archroma, Alberto Guzzetti of Tejidos Royo and Panos Sofianos, Denim Curator at Bluezone
EN
THE ALL RELATED TREND AND COLLABORATION PRESENTATION
12.00pm – 1.00pm
Meet the makers behind the future-proof premiere of collaboration and learn about the ALL RELATED trends
With Lucie Germset and Tilmann Wrobel of Monsieur T
EN
WEDNESDAY 4th of September
Sportswear International Talk
4.00pm – 5.00pm
WOMEN IN DENIM – How The Power of Woman Can Change The Denim World
With Sabine Kuhnl of Sportswear International, Lucie Germser of Monsieur T
EN
Monsieur-T
2.00pm – 3.00pm
How to be yourself as a brand
With Tilmann Wrobel of Monsieur-T
EN
Taking place in the elevated lecture area, Denim Dock, in the Bluezone Hall 7
Get up close and personal with BLUEZONE, one of the world’s largest denim shows featuring over 100 leading international denim & sportswear suppliers for Fabrics and Additionals.
You’re invited to attend MUNICH FABRIC START, where more than 1000 suppliers will present more than 1800 collections for Fabrics and Additionals for Autumn.Winter 20/21.
BLUEZONE: 3-4 of September 2019
MUNICH FABRIC START: 3-5 of September 2019
‘Sustainability is not just a trend but a MUST’
At Munich Fabric Start, we are constantly evolving and expanding our offering to meet the demands of the fashion industry. As a whole, the fashion industry is experiencing the effects from increasingly consumer led trends and habits. We are undergoing a shift from fast fashion to slower, sustainable and more responsible manufacturing, transparent supply chains as well as inherently greener brands, products and materials.
“Sustainability is more than just a trend. We are convinced that the industry will fundamentally change in the coming years from within and as a result of this topic.”
– Jo Baumgartner, Trend Researcher at Munich Fabric Start
The upcoming edition of Munich Fabric Start puts issues around sustainability at the forefront with revolutionary new formats. Here are our platforms and initiatives which are making it easier and more accessible to source sustainable at the next edition of Munich Fabric Start.
ReSource
With ReSource, Munich Fabric Start has established an advanced sourcing platform that demonstrates new dimensions of sustainability for innovative and future-oriented production processes. It has defined a forum, initiated and supported by experts that provides real solutions, provides information on the latest standards through seminars and lectures, even bringing together potential cooperation partners.
Find the complete ReSource range online to source your eco fabrics and trims 24/7. This unique platform facilitates the sourcing of responsible and clean fabrics and accessories from around the world.
Check out the full list of events happening at ReSource here.
Trend Forum
In our Trend Forums we explore the theme of sustainability with “FORWARD ETHICS” the clothing brand concepts which represent the demand for transparency and caters to the more conscious and informed consumer. Fundamentally it explores the transparency in the production and supply chain, all the way from the seed used by farmers making natural dyes to production and distribution. Keynote speakers, panel discussions and round tables discussions will shed more light on this ongoing transformation as well as provide food for thought and insights into the future.
“Consumer behavior has changed a lot and with it, so too has the market. The consumer is more informed than ever before. The consumer is more conscious and critical, demanding transparency in the production and supply chain.”
– Jo Baumgartner, Trend Researcher at Munich Fabric Start
Events
The event program on offer at Munich Fabric Start is a reflection on the issues, strategies and common themes the industry as a collective are facing right now. With many of our seminars, panel discussions and keynote talks led by the theme of sustainability, we are equipping our visitors with the necessary tools and know-how to grow their brand and business successfully during these times. In particular you should be sure not to miss these two highlights:
SusTECHability – HOW TRENDS & TECHNOLOGY INFLUENCE SUSTAINABILITY IN FASHION
Lifestyle & Design. Sustainable Resources & Circular Processes. Big Data & Artificial Intelligence. Topics that were completely separate in the past influence each other and become the melting pot of the future of fashion.
Li Edelkoort | Founder and President of
the Parisian trend forecasting agency Trend Union
Michael Stanley-Jones | Co-Secretary, UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion
– United Nations Environment Programme
Tricia Carey | Director Global Business Development Denim at Lenzing Fibers
Natasha Franck | CEO & Founder EON Group Holdings Inc.
Erik Bang | Innovation Lead H&M Foundation
Muchaneta Kapfunde | Founding Editor-in-Chief FashNerd.com
Moderation: Jana Kern & Alex Vogt | KERN. Consulting
Tuesday, 3rd September 2019 at 11.30am, KEYHOUSE Hall 5
HIDE ME
HIDE ME
RESHAPING THE FASHION INDUSTRY FOR GOOD
From slow fashion to mainstream business, materials to education, sustainability is a vast and complex issue that has raised many questions on how we can reshape the fashion industry for good.
Muchaneta Kapfunde, Founding Editor-in-Chief FashNerd.com, interviews these 4 ladies:
Charney Magri | Co-Director: Catwalk to Creation and Partner: Do Epic Good
Olivia Pinnock | Fashion Journalist, Lecturer and Founder of The Fashion Debates
Abigail Morris | Founder and CEO of Compare Ethics
Rosanne van der Meer | Founder The Girl and The Machine & N.I.O.
Wednesday, 4th September 2019 at 10.30am, KEYHOUSE Hall 5
Keyhouse
Our think tank for the fusion of fashion, innovation and technology with seminars, panels, presentations and guided tours, Keyhouse presents the latest innovations for smart textiles, sustainable developments and innovative production methods. The lecture area in Keyhouse will host a series of talks, presentations and discussions centered around the theme of sustainability.
Sustainable Innovations
Presented in Hall 5 at Keyhouse, Sustainable Innovations exists somewhere between poetry and problem solving. Showcasing inspirational applications of revolutionary innovations ranging from 3D printing, to human capital, to circular solutions.
‘With this edition we show several projects that provide concrete examples of what the successful interplay between poetry and problem solving can look like.’
– Simon Angel, Curator of Sustainable Innovations
Exhibitor Developments and Sample Areas
Samples submitted to our ReSource area will be showcased throughout the show in various convienient locations, including in the walkways of the MOC building, a selection of samples will be presented at Keyhouse to compliment the sustainable innovations area as well as dotted throughout the trend forum. Of course ReSource fabrics, labelling and additional products will be on display in the dedicated ReSource area in Hall K4.
As you can see, sustainability and its related areas are broadly and comprehensively represented. MUNICH FABRIC START became committed at a very early stage and initiated strong forums which are continuously expanding.
You’re invited to attend MUNICH FABRIC START, where more than 1000 suppliers will present more than 1800 collections for Fabrics and Additionals for Autumn.Winter 20/21.
MUNICH FABRIC START: 3-5 of September 2019
Nat-2™ and Shahar Livne: Sustainable Blood Sneakers
The kind of collaboration which is everything we could hope for here at Munich Fabric Start. Since its inception, Keyhouse is intended to be a platform which promotes the sharing and exchange of knowledge and innovation. We believe that through collaboration, innovations such as those presented by Shahar Livne and Sebastian Thies can thrive; growing arms and legs or in this case Blood Sneakers!
Creating the world’s first sneakers made from REAL BLOOD are nat-2™ Designer Sebastian Thies and Eindhoven based Designer Shahar Livne, both previous exhibitors at Keyhouse 2017 and 2018 respectively. The two designers joined forces in 2018 after meeting each other through Simon Angel who introduced Sebastian to the blood material in a raw state. Fascinated by the material Sebastian then contacted Shahar who was in to the idea. She further developed the material based on the needs for footwear given by nat-2™ and Sebastian designed and constructed the sneaker. Together they also developed the print image which Shahar later printed by silkscreen with real blood pigments. In January 2019 the project was shown to the public for the very first time at Neonyt. Afterwards it went on to exhibitions like Milan and Tortona Design Week, Interzum’s Disruptive Materials and was featured in Dezeen, Sportswear International, Vogue and already many international museums have bought the unique pairs for the collections.
THE PROJECT IDEA
In most slaughterhouses, blood is drained into the sewers and waterways, or re-used as a colourant for meat. Inspired by the construction and de-construction of living subjects in the food industry, Shahar Livne developed a new handmade “bio-leather” by using fat and bones, the subsequent materials from the waste streams of slaughterhouses in the Netherlands, as well as utilizing the wasted blood as a colourant and a plasticizer.
Other materials used in this concept shoe are finest nappa leather, glass, a real cork insole and real rubber outsoles. The shoes are made entirely by hand in Italy and incredibly all according materials are coming from the same region.
“The extraordinary material mix gives the product an absolute new feel and look, never experienced in footwear before”
By realizing these unique sneakers nat-2™ and Shahar Livne want to bring more attention to urgent international matters such as sustainability in different animal-based industries by using naturally occurring resources and upcycling leftovers from those industries. But also making a point for more tolerance, open-minded thinking by raising fascination, curiosity, highlighting the wasteful and disrespectful treatment of animals and natural resources.
Accompanying the sneakers in its 100% recycled paper packaging is a limited edition poster silkscreen printed with a uniquely developed real blood pigment by Shahar Livne, and hand-signed by both designers.
ABOUT THE MATERIAL
The “Meat Factory” project is a series of material experiments with the aim to create dissonance between attractiveness and disgust, natural and industrial attitudes while focusing on the blood as a material and a colourant. The results of the project are visualized in two directions:
1. The use of blood as ink to produce an exciting natural colour range in a silkscreen technique, a repetitive technique that refers to the ancient pigment Oxblood and the industrial revolution relating to food and materials.
2. The Bioleather is made only from meat industry driven waste and low-value materials as a proposal to create new valuable replacements for a polluting and often cruel industry. Shahar investigated the construction and deconstruction of living subjects and the wasteful and cynical treatment of animals and natural resources by human beings, inspired by the philosophy of “Nose to Tail” attitude of using the entire animal.
ABOUT THE DESIGNERS
Shahar Livne (Israeli born, *1989) is an internationally known designer located in Eindhoven, The Netherlands. Her lifelong fascinations in nature, biology, science, and philosophy developed into intuitive material experimentation way of work during her bachelor studies at the Design Academy Eindhoven. Shahar’s body of work focuses on conceptual material research in a multi-leveled methodology, bringing to life narratives through objects and installations centered around materials.
Find Shahar on Instagram
Sebastian Thies (Munich born, *1981), 6th generation footwear designer since 1856 has launched the sustainable luxury brand in 2007. Ever since, the award winning nat-2™ is all about innovation, design and sustainability paving the way for the future fashion footwear by using unique, uncommon materials such as milk, fish leather, natural felt, recycled leather and many vegan luxury alternative materials such as stone, wood, corn, cork, glass, fungus, coffee, grass, flowers, natural rubber and more.
Find nat-2™ on Instagram
Remark: No animal has been harmed or will be in the future by creating these pieces of art. All organic ingredients are from leftover materials. The glue is water-based.
Our thanks and congratulations to Sebastian and Shahar for their successful collaboration and their wonderful insights into a more tolerant and inspiring world.
Planet REhab Capsule: Celebrating Sustainable Collaboration
It is great to have organic fibres, right? But as a producer of fibres, the influence on a more sustainable textile production often stops here. Textile garments have complex supply chains which sometimes imply production partners all over the world. That’s why the solution for a more coherent and holistic form of sustainability often lies in right supply chain partnerships!
That’s the idea behind the so called “Planet Rehab” capsule collection, for which renowned textile companies, who are environmentally committed, have partnered up to create something bigger than their own.
The collection was presented during last edition of KEYHOUSE in January. MUNICH FABRIC START feels especially committed about this project as all project partners – Lenzing, Tejidos Royo, Officina +39, and Tonello have been long term exhibitors at the fair.
These companies recognized the success to achieving their own goals lies in fulfilling their shared ones, by working collaboratively and responsibly – seeking out more sustainable raw materials, implementing new technologies and employing processes that reduce resource utilization and waste. Juan Carlos Gordillo designed the Rehab collection around Lenzing’s TENCEL™ and TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ branded lyocell fabrics from Tejidos Royo. The fabrics were dyed using Recycrom technology from Officina+39 and the resultant garments finished by Tonello.
Lenzing’s TENCEL™ and TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ branded lyocell fibers enhance the sustainable qualities of the fabrics. Made from renewable wood in a closed loop, energy and resource efficient manufacturing process, TENCEL™ fibers and TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ fibers made with recycled cotton scraps provide the fabrics with softness, smoothness, tenacity, and color intensity.
Spanish fabric producer, Tejidos Royo, creates “fabric with values” through the company’s commitment to the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals. The manufacturer’s vertical business model has substantially reduced its energy consumption and CO2 emissions through aggressive R&D and provides complete transparency and traceability for their customers
Officina+39’s Recycrom dyes are made from recycled clothing and textile scraps that are specially processed by these Italian experts through a sophisticated production process using only natural chemicals. Waste fabrics are crystalized into an incredibly fine powder that can be used as a pigment dye. Recycrom received the Hightex Award at MUNICH FABRIC START for Autumn/Winter 17/18.
Laundry specialist Tonello also based in Italy, contributed their ECOFREE 2 technology to the project. Fulfilling the needs of the designers and their customers, Tonello’s revolutionary washing process significantly reduces the water and hazardous chemical consumption typically associated with denim finishing.
Guatemalan designer, Juan Carlos Gordillo, applauds the Planet REhab objectives and used the member companies’ products to create fifteen women’s outfits that celebrate life and nature with exceptional color flair and a decidedly Latin influence. The full collection was displayed during the last edition of KEYHOUSE in January 2019, showcasing the eclectic and artistic style for which Gordillo is known for.
“Planet REhab is my tribute to the ocean with its deep colors and flowing shapes,” the celebrated designer says. “The collection also protects the ocean because it is created from the sustainable fibers, fabrics, dyes, and finishing techniques perfected by the Planet REhab collaborating companies. While many companies talk about being sustainable, these companies had the courage to actually create sustainable products and processes that benefit the industry, society, and the planet. I hope this collection can inspire other designers to prioritize sustainability in their creative processes.”