Keyhouse
KPMG x Microsoft: Merging Business, Technology and Fashion
Every industry is experiencing massive changes thanks to advancements in technology that are leading the way with new applications, services and opportunities. Revolutionising how companies manage, manufacture, market and sell, new technology is transforming customer expectations by changing how people communicate, live and shop.
Nowadays, for a company to thrive, it has to decide its level of technological integration. Easily described as a service, technology is already impacting various industries in different ways. According to KPMG, one of the leading auditing and consulting companies in Germany, one of those industries is fashion, particularly retail, where we are witnessing a radical shift in established brands that are not only being challenged by digital-enabled newcomers but also by customers who are smart, mobile-empowered, socially networked, and able to influence a brand’s reputation.
Ushering in a New World of Retail Fashion
Bringing business, technology and fashion to Munich Fabric Start’s Keyhouse this season, KPMG and IT-lighthouse Microsoft have come together to disrupt the future of fashion. It is a partnership that is presenting business and technology expertise to those within the fashion industry. KPMG wants to make a massive change in fashion by introducing disruptive technology that will transform many things like the means of communication by creating processes to collaborate and explore.
Working together with Microsoft, KPMG has found a new way to satisfy customers through their Omni Channel solution, which enables companies to gain a full 360° view of all customer touch points. They are also looking to empower employees with actionable processes that will fulfil the customer success story. Their end goal is to offer a new way that will successfully satisfy the modern customer by introducing a combination of HoloLens, a new POS system, better process management tools and social media engagement designed to usher in a new world of retail fashion.
Besides the partnership presenting an in-depth business and technology expertise to the fashion industry, KPMG has also taken a multifaceted approach so they can offer innovative solutions regarding customer acquisition, loyalty and reward programs, integrated marketing and social media strategies while enabling transparency throughout production and supply chain delivery. This is because KPMG has found all these topics to be of importance to the modern customer and therefore, likely to affect the bottom line of a fashion business.
Together both companies presented the Omni Channel strategy at the Keyhouse, our visitors experienced how the HoloLens, with integrated digital transformation, can help fashion businesses gain increased brand visibility. KPMG also shared their know-how on how companies can get the first-to-market advantage using HoloLens.
KEYHOUSE - From Poetry to Digitalisation
As a think tank for fashion tech, smart textiles, sustainability and innovation, KEYHOUSE offers concrete approaches for a future-oriented textile and fashion industry. It spans the spectrum from technology to sustainability, from digitalisation to new material resources and manufacturing processes. The mindset of ‘democratic’ research projects, inspiring collaborations and networks as well as high-tech product and process development reflects the pulsating mood of KEYHOUSE at MUNICH FABRIC START.
Those attending include:
Smart Textiles Pop-Up Lab by Holst Centre x Pauline van Dongen featuring interactive workshops on printing electronics on textiles. As a Dutch research hub, the Holst Centre specialises in the development of printed electronics. Unlike conventional electronics, these circuits are thin, lightweight, flexible and even stretchable. They make it possible to make all kinds of products and materials interactive. The material properties of these printed electronics make them particularly suitable for integration in textiles.
KNITCLOUD by N.I.O. combines sustainability and digitalisation with the launch of a personalised 3D knitwear-on-demand brand at the Keyhouse, which as a smart network offers a future-oriented, sustainable answer to today’s overconsumption of clothing. What began with initial tests by start-up company The Girl and The Machine has now developed into a market-ready brand for custom-made 3D knitwear on demand that will be scalable in the future. Knitcloud by N.I.O. (New Industrial Order) will allow brands, designers and web shops to connect virtual designs, body measurement apps, virtual fitting solutions and a digital tailor system (DTS) with a subsequent on-demand ordering system (ONOS). In future, this smart concept will make it possible to produce customised and personalised clothing – as the world’s first open ecosystem for 3D knitwear on demand.
KPMG, one of the leading auditing and consulting firms in Germany, will deliver a unique fusion of business, technology and fashion to the KEYHOUSE this season together with the global IT group Microsoft. This partnership is dedicated to business and technology systems for the fashion industry. The launch of disruptive technologies such as HoloLens, a new POS system, better process management tools and integrated social media engagement will satisfy the modern, demanding customer of the future, ensuring a new era for fashion retailing.
DIGITAL FABRIC LAB
As a joint showcase initiated by MUNICH FABRIC START, the leading specialist firms Assyst, Caddon, Vizoo, Triple Tree Solutions and the University of Dresden have joined forces to present a new type of digitalisation process for fabrics in a comprehensible and practical way through simulated digitalisation stations. The DIGITAL FABRIC LAB demonstrates a new form of analysis process that overhauls production and accelerates it many times over. Digital material parameters such as elasticity, flexibility, tension and rigidity are determined for the realistic use of textiles in product simulation. For these physical measurements, surfaces, colours and textures must be recorded and collated in a technologically presentable way.
‘Digitalisation 4.0 is certainly one of the key issues when it comes to future process controls. One of the essential building blocks within these major technical changes will be the digitalisation of fabrics and additionals. For each fabric and each button there will be a digital ‘twin’.’
Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director MUNICH FABRIC START
SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS
Creating alternative materials from unusual resources, instructions for a new approach to textiles and clothing and the rediscovery of traditional crafts – the SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS Forum will showcase it all, discover:
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- PHERES & AUXTEX by Eric Esser, with the creation of CAD files thanks to the 3D printing process FDM (Fused Deposition Modelling).
- Atlas of Sustainable Colour(s) by JULIA KALETA as a sustainable colour compass.
- LOOP.A.LIFE with a circular approach to extending the life cycle of textiles.
- LOOP COLLABORATION STUDIO as an integrative movement of socially oriented resource exploitation.
- WORN TO WEAR by Lena Winterink interprets the conscious handling of clothing through the use of copper wire in the yarn.
- SWART LAEKEN by Lotte Gulpers present high-quality items made of premium wool as a sustainable raw material.
- DYELUX by Nikolett Madai uses by-products from the food industry to produce dyestuffs for textiles.
- KNOT by Sanne Visser looks at horn as a raw material from a new angle and creates yarns, ropes and nets from hair.
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With these selected showcases at KEYHOUSE we give impulses and solutions for a future-oriented use of materials and marketable production processes. This offers great potential for synergies and collaborations, which – used at the right interface and linked together – will have a lasting impact on industry. This season we have once again succeeded in mapping out a broad range of relevant topics for the future.’
Claudia Mynott, Communications Director MUNICH FABRIC START
HIGHTEX AWARD
The HighTex Award will be presented for the 7th time. The MUNICH FABRIC START Innovation Prize honours outstanding initiatives and commitment in the fields of intelligent process solutions, innovative highlights, biotechnology, digitalisation and sustainable innovations.
‘We present the HighTex Award in recognition of outstanding achievements and, at the same time, as a motivation for innovative research projects and thus as a sustainable contribution to a clean future and conscious use of resources.’
Frank Junker, Creative Director, MUNICH FABRIC START
Candidates are assessed according to the following categories: High-Tex, Technology, Smart Fibres, Sustainability, Resource Efficiency, Finishing, Functionality, Health and Circularity Process. An essential principle here is process realisation and marketability. The award winning products and other innovations in the KEYHOUSE HighTex Award Forum will be on display for the entire duration of the trade fair. Supplemented by detailed information on the respective exhibited products including contact information.
SIDE EVENTS
Furthermore, KEYHOUSE offers a comprehensive and exclusive programme of side events throughout the duration of the trade fair. In addition to trend seminars, these include top-class workshops, talks and round table discussions.
The entire lecture programme can be found at >> events.munichfabricstart.com
An Introduction to the Events Program at MUNICH FABRIC START
The event program on offer at Munich Fabric Start is a reflection on the issues, strategies and common themes the industry as a collective are facing right now. Through a series of seminars, panel discussions and keynote talks, we are equipping our visitors with the necessary tools and know-how to grow their brand and business successfully during these times.
Discover the events which are tailor-made for your business, check out our complete event program and begin to plan your trade fair visit. Here are our highlights from each of our event platforms at Keyhouse, ReSource and Denim Dock.
Create Future at Keyhouse
TUESDAY 3rd of September
SusTECHability Panel Discussion
11.30am – 1.00pm
SusTECHability – How trends and technology influence sustainability in fashion.
With Li Edelkoort of Trend Union, Michael Stnaley-Jones of United Nations Environment Programme, Tricia Carey of Lenzing Fibers, Natasha Franck of EON Group Holdings and Erik Bang of H&M Foundation. Moderated by Jana Kern and Alex Vogt of KERN Consulting.
EN
Swarovski Talk
2.00pm – 3.00pm
Trend Technik Design
With Dr Ralf Weinbeger and Christel Wickerath of Swarovski.
DE
Li Edelkoort Trend Presentation
4.00pm – 6.30pm
BROWN AGE – Fashion, Shapes, Textiles and Colours for AUTUMN/WINTER 20/21
GREEN WAVE – New Colours for SPRING/SUMMER 2021
RECREATION – Casual Wear Trends and Colours
MEET & GREET – Drinks with Li Edelkoort
EN
WEDNESDAY 4th of September
Fashnerd Panel
10.30am – 11.30am
Reshaping the Fashion Industry for good
With Muchaneta Kapfunde of FashNerd, Charney Magri of Fashion 4 Change and Do Epic Sh*t, Olivia Pinnock of The Fashion Debates and Abigail Morris of Compare Ethics.
EN
EON Group
11.30am – 12.30pm
Circular ID – The Digital Foundation for Circular Economy
With Natasha Franck at EON Group Holdings and Maruschka Loubser of Brand Marketing and Partnerships Microsoft
EN
Archroma
5.00pm – 6.00pm
Break new ground with aniline-free indigo for denim
With Albert Llort of Global Competence Center Denim
EN
THURSDAY 5th of September
FashNerd Keynote
11.00am – 12.00pm
From Seaweed to Fiber, Is Biology The Future of Fashion?
With Muchaneta Kapfunde of FashNerd
EN
Taking place in the lecture area in Keyhouse, Hall 5.
Let’s ReSource
TUESDAY 3rd of September
Lenzing
12.00pm – 1.00pm
Towards a circular economy – A fiber producer’s view
With Caroline Ledl of LENZING Group
DE
WEDNESDAY 4th of September
Oeko-Tex
1.00pm – 2.00pm
Sustainability leads to economic efficiency
With Dirk Schafer of Oeko-Tex
EN
THURSDAY 5th of September
s.Oliver Group
1.00pm – 2.00pm
WE CARE – The Sustainable Program by s.Oliver Group
With Astrid Schodel of s.Oliver Group
DE
Taking place in the lecture area in the MOC, ReSource k4 Area Foyer Hall 4.
Let Them Know at Denim Dock
TUESDAY 3rd of September
Panel Discussion
11.00am – 12.00pm
The Greendigo REvolution Panel Discussion
With Albert Llort of Archroma, Alberto Guzzetti of Tejidos Royo and Panos Sofianos, Denim Curator at Bluezone
EN
THE ALL RELATED TREND AND COLLABORATION PRESENTATION
12.00pm – 1.00pm
Meet the makers behind the future-proof premiere of collaboration and learn about the ALL RELATED trends
With Lucie Germset and Tilmann Wrobel of Monsieur T
EN
WEDNESDAY 4th of September
Sportswear International Talk
4.00pm – 5.00pm
WOMEN IN DENIM – How The Power of Woman Can Change The Denim World
With Sabine Kuhnl of Sportswear International, Lucie Germser of Monsieur T
EN
Monsieur-T
2.00pm – 3.00pm
How to be yourself as a brand
With Tilmann Wrobel of Monsieur-T
EN
Taking place in the elevated lecture area, Denim Dock, in the Bluezone Hall 7
Get up close and personal with BLUEZONE, one of the world’s largest denim shows featuring over 100 leading international denim & sportswear suppliers for Fabrics and Additionals.
You’re invited to attend MUNICH FABRIC START, where more than 1000 suppliers will present more than 1800 collections for Fabrics and Additionals for Autumn.Winter 20/21.
BLUEZONE: 3-4 of September 2019
MUNICH FABRIC START: 3-5 of September 2019
‘Sustainability is not just a trend but a MUST’
At Munich Fabric Start, we are constantly evolving and expanding our offering to meet the demands of the fashion industry. As a whole, the fashion industry is experiencing the effects from increasingly consumer led trends and habits. We are undergoing a shift from fast fashion to slower, sustainable and more responsible manufacturing, transparent supply chains as well as inherently greener brands, products and materials.
“Sustainability is more than just a trend. We are convinced that the industry will fundamentally change in the coming years from within and as a result of this topic.”
– Jo Baumgartner, Trend Researcher at Munich Fabric Start
The upcoming edition of Munich Fabric Start puts issues around sustainability at the forefront with revolutionary new formats. Here are our platforms and initiatives which are making it easier and more accessible to source sustainable at the next edition of Munich Fabric Start.
ReSource
With ReSource, Munich Fabric Start has established an advanced sourcing platform that demonstrates new dimensions of sustainability for innovative and future-oriented production processes. It has defined a forum, initiated and supported by experts that provides real solutions, provides information on the latest standards through seminars and lectures, even bringing together potential cooperation partners.
Find the complete ReSource range online to source your eco fabrics and trims 24/7. This unique platform facilitates the sourcing of responsible and clean fabrics and accessories from around the world.
Check out the full list of events happening at ReSource here.
Trend Forum
In our Trend Forums we explore the theme of sustainability with “FORWARD ETHICS” the clothing brand concepts which represent the demand for transparency and caters to the more conscious and informed consumer. Fundamentally it explores the transparency in the production and supply chain, all the way from the seed used by farmers making natural dyes to production and distribution. Keynote speakers, panel discussions and round tables discussions will shed more light on this ongoing transformation as well as provide food for thought and insights into the future.
“Consumer behavior has changed a lot and with it, so too has the market. The consumer is more informed than ever before. The consumer is more conscious and critical, demanding transparency in the production and supply chain.”
– Jo Baumgartner, Trend Researcher at Munich Fabric Start
Events
The event program on offer at Munich Fabric Start is a reflection on the issues, strategies and common themes the industry as a collective are facing right now. With many of our seminars, panel discussions and keynote talks led by the theme of sustainability, we are equipping our visitors with the necessary tools and know-how to grow their brand and business successfully during these times. In particular you should be sure not to miss these two highlights:
SusTECHability – HOW TRENDS & TECHNOLOGY INFLUENCE SUSTAINABILITY IN FASHION
Lifestyle & Design. Sustainable Resources & Circular Processes. Big Data & Artificial Intelligence. Topics that were completely separate in the past influence each other and become the melting pot of the future of fashion.
Li Edelkoort | Founder and President of
the Parisian trend forecasting agency Trend Union
Michael Stanley-Jones | Co-Secretary, UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion
– United Nations Environment Programme
Tricia Carey | Director Global Business Development Denim at Lenzing Fibers
Natasha Franck | CEO & Founder EON Group Holdings Inc.
Erik Bang | Innovation Lead H&M Foundation
Muchaneta Kapfunde | Founding Editor-in-Chief FashNerd.com
Moderation: Jana Kern & Alex Vogt | KERN. Consulting
Tuesday, 3rd September 2019 at 11.30am, KEYHOUSE Hall 5
HIDE ME
HIDE ME
RESHAPING THE FASHION INDUSTRY FOR GOOD
From slow fashion to mainstream business, materials to education, sustainability is a vast and complex issue that has raised many questions on how we can reshape the fashion industry for good.
Muchaneta Kapfunde, Founding Editor-in-Chief FashNerd.com, interviews these 4 ladies:
Charney Magri | Co-Director: Catwalk to Creation and Partner: Do Epic Good
Olivia Pinnock | Fashion Journalist, Lecturer and Founder of The Fashion Debates
Abigail Morris | Founder and CEO of Compare Ethics
Rosanne van der Meer | Founder The Girl and The Machine & N.I.O.
Wednesday, 4th September 2019 at 10.30am, KEYHOUSE Hall 5
Keyhouse
Our think tank for the fusion of fashion, innovation and technology with seminars, panels, presentations and guided tours, Keyhouse presents the latest innovations for smart textiles, sustainable developments and innovative production methods. The lecture area in Keyhouse will host a series of talks, presentations and discussions centered around the theme of sustainability.
Sustainable Innovations
Presented in Hall 5 at Keyhouse, Sustainable Innovations exists somewhere between poetry and problem solving. Showcasing inspirational applications of revolutionary innovations ranging from 3D printing, to human capital, to circular solutions.
‘With this edition we show several projects that provide concrete examples of what the successful interplay between poetry and problem solving can look like.’
– Simon Angel, Curator of Sustainable Innovations
Exhibitor Developments and Sample Areas
Samples submitted to our ReSource area will be showcased throughout the show in various convienient locations, including in the walkways of the MOC building, a selection of samples will be presented at Keyhouse to compliment the sustainable innovations area as well as dotted throughout the trend forum. Of course ReSource fabrics, labelling and additional products will be on display in the dedicated ReSource area in Hall K4.
As you can see, sustainability and its related areas are broadly and comprehensively represented. MUNICH FABRIC START became committed at a very early stage and initiated strong forums which are continuously expanding.
You’re invited to attend MUNICH FABRIC START, where more than 1000 suppliers will present more than 1800 collections for Fabrics and Additionals for Autumn.Winter 20/21.
MUNICH FABRIC START: 3-5 of September 2019
Nat-2™ and Shahar Livne: Sustainable Blood Sneakers
The kind of collaboration which is everything we could hope for here at Munich Fabric Start. Since its inception, Keyhouse is intended to be a platform which promotes the sharing and exchange of knowledge and innovation. We believe that through collaboration, innovations such as those presented by Shahar Livne and Sebastian Thies can thrive; growing arms and legs or in this case Blood Sneakers!
Creating the world’s first sneakers made from REAL BLOOD are nat-2™ Designer Sebastian Thies and Eindhoven based Designer Shahar Livne, both previous exhibitors at Keyhouse 2017 and 2018 respectively. The two designers joined forces in 2018 after meeting each other through Simon Angel who introduced Sebastian to the blood material in a raw state. Fascinated by the material Sebastian then contacted Shahar who was in to the idea. She further developed the material based on the needs for footwear given by nat-2™ and Sebastian designed and constructed the sneaker. Together they also developed the print image which Shahar later printed by silkscreen with real blood pigments. In January 2019 the project was shown to the public for the very first time at Neonyt. Afterwards it went on to exhibitions like Milan and Tortona Design Week, Interzum’s Disruptive Materials and was featured in Dezeen, Sportswear International, Vogue and already many international museums have bought the unique pairs for the collections.
THE PROJECT IDEA
In most slaughterhouses, blood is drained into the sewers and waterways, or re-used as a colourant for meat. Inspired by the construction and de-construction of living subjects in the food industry, Shahar Livne developed a new handmade “bio-leather” by using fat and bones, the subsequent materials from the waste streams of slaughterhouses in the Netherlands, as well as utilizing the wasted blood as a colourant and a plasticizer.
Other materials used in this concept shoe are finest nappa leather, glass, a real cork insole and real rubber outsoles. The shoes are made entirely by hand in Italy and incredibly all according materials are coming from the same region.
“The extraordinary material mix gives the product an absolute new feel and look, never experienced in footwear before”
By realizing these unique sneakers nat-2™ and Shahar Livne want to bring more attention to urgent international matters such as sustainability in different animal-based industries by using naturally occurring resources and upcycling leftovers from those industries. But also making a point for more tolerance, open-minded thinking by raising fascination, curiosity, highlighting the wasteful and disrespectful treatment of animals and natural resources.
Accompanying the sneakers in its 100% recycled paper packaging is a limited edition poster silkscreen printed with a uniquely developed real blood pigment by Shahar Livne, and hand-signed by both designers.
ABOUT THE MATERIAL
The “Meat Factory” project is a series of material experiments with the aim to create dissonance between attractiveness and disgust, natural and industrial attitudes while focusing on the blood as a material and a colourant. The results of the project are visualized in two directions:
1. The use of blood as ink to produce an exciting natural colour range in a silkscreen technique, a repetitive technique that refers to the ancient pigment Oxblood and the industrial revolution relating to food and materials.
2. The Bioleather is made only from meat industry driven waste and low-value materials as a proposal to create new valuable replacements for a polluting and often cruel industry. Shahar investigated the construction and deconstruction of living subjects and the wasteful and cynical treatment of animals and natural resources by human beings, inspired by the philosophy of “Nose to Tail” attitude of using the entire animal.
ABOUT THE DESIGNERS
Shahar Livne (Israeli born, *1989) is an internationally known designer located in Eindhoven, The Netherlands. Her lifelong fascinations in nature, biology, science, and philosophy developed into intuitive material experimentation way of work during her bachelor studies at the Design Academy Eindhoven. Shahar’s body of work focuses on conceptual material research in a multi-leveled methodology, bringing to life narratives through objects and installations centered around materials.
Find Shahar on Instagram
Sebastian Thies (Munich born, *1981), 6th generation footwear designer since 1856 has launched the sustainable luxury brand in 2007. Ever since, the award winning nat-2™ is all about innovation, design and sustainability paving the way for the future fashion footwear by using unique, uncommon materials such as milk, fish leather, natural felt, recycled leather and many vegan luxury alternative materials such as stone, wood, corn, cork, glass, fungus, coffee, grass, flowers, natural rubber and more.
Find nat-2™ on Instagram
Remark: No animal has been harmed or will be in the future by creating these pieces of art. All organic ingredients are from leftover materials. The glue is water-based.
Our thanks and congratulations to Sebastian and Shahar for their successful collaboration and their wonderful insights into a more tolerant and inspiring world.
Planet REhab Capsule: Celebrating Sustainable Collaboration
It is great to have organic fibres, right? But as a producer of fibres, the influence on a more sustainable textile production often stops here. Textile garments have complex supply chains which sometimes imply production partners all over the world. That’s why the solution for a more coherent and holistic form of sustainability often lies in right supply chain partnerships!
That’s the idea behind the so called “Planet Rehab” capsule collection, for which renowned textile companies, who are environmentally committed, have partnered up to create something bigger than their own.
The collection was presented during last edition of KEYHOUSE in January. MUNICH FABRIC START feels especially committed about this project as all project partners – Lenzing, Tejidos Royo, Officina +39, and Tonello have been long term exhibitors at the fair.
These companies recognized the success to achieving their own goals lies in fulfilling their shared ones, by working collaboratively and responsibly – seeking out more sustainable raw materials, implementing new technologies and employing processes that reduce resource utilization and waste. Juan Carlos Gordillo designed the Rehab collection around Lenzing’s TENCEL™ and TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ branded lyocell fabrics from Tejidos Royo. The fabrics were dyed using Recycrom technology from Officina+39 and the resultant garments finished by Tonello.
Lenzing’s TENCEL™ and TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ branded lyocell fibers enhance the sustainable qualities of the fabrics. Made from renewable wood in a closed loop, energy and resource efficient manufacturing process, TENCEL™ fibers and TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ fibers made with recycled cotton scraps provide the fabrics with softness, smoothness, tenacity, and color intensity.
Spanish fabric producer, Tejidos Royo, creates “fabric with values” through the company’s commitment to the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals. The manufacturer’s vertical business model has substantially reduced its energy consumption and CO2 emissions through aggressive R&D and provides complete transparency and traceability for their customers
Officina+39’s Recycrom dyes are made from recycled clothing and textile scraps that are specially processed by these Italian experts through a sophisticated production process using only natural chemicals. Waste fabrics are crystalized into an incredibly fine powder that can be used as a pigment dye. Recycrom received the Hightex Award at MUNICH FABRIC START for Autumn/Winter 17/18.
Laundry specialist Tonello also based in Italy, contributed their ECOFREE 2 technology to the project. Fulfilling the needs of the designers and their customers, Tonello’s revolutionary washing process significantly reduces the water and hazardous chemical consumption typically associated with denim finishing.
Guatemalan designer, Juan Carlos Gordillo, applauds the Planet REhab objectives and used the member companies’ products to create fifteen women’s outfits that celebrate life and nature with exceptional color flair and a decidedly Latin influence. The full collection was displayed during the last edition of KEYHOUSE in January 2019, showcasing the eclectic and artistic style for which Gordillo is known for.
“Planet REhab is my tribute to the ocean with its deep colors and flowing shapes,” the celebrated designer says. “The collection also protects the ocean because it is created from the sustainable fibers, fabrics, dyes, and finishing techniques perfected by the Planet REhab collaborating companies. While many companies talk about being sustainable, these companies had the courage to actually create sustainable products and processes that benefit the industry, society, and the planet. I hope this collection can inspire other designers to prioritize sustainability in their creative processes.”