Keyhouse
The Fabric Trends Autumn.Winter 24/25 - Part IV
Fabrics Highlights for Autumn.Winter 2024/ 25 - Part IV
In the FABRICS Area, around 600 international suppliers present their material innovations for all apparel segments. The complete product portfolio of fashionable woven and knitted fabrics made of wool, cotton, silk, blends and functional fibres is represented here. For the Autumn.Winter 24/25 season, we present some highlights from international producers in our FABRICS blogposts:
KNIPIDEE
Knipidee International, a family business with its roots in the Netherlands and now growing strongly outside the borders with focus on a strong basic and seasonal fabric collection. The new collection is as usual stylish and versatile, with fabrics like warm faux fur, lots of quilted fabrics for luxury coats, corduroy stepped, knitted jacquards, velvet and beautiful satin designs.
Leichtfried Loden
Sustainability 2.0 – Leichtfried Loden does care about animal welfare and they have only been using certified mulesing-free Australian Merino wool since 2020. From autumn 2023, they will go one step further and certify the entire production process according to RWS (Responsible Wool Standard) in order to meet the high requirements of their customers.
LEMAR
Transforming Waste into Opportunity! Advancing sustainability with fabrics woven with yarns developed from Recycled End-of-Life Tyres! Discarded tyres have become a global concern and it is crucial to explore innovative solutions that promote a circular economy. By transforming this waste into amazing fabrics, Lemar will be able to deliver environmental preservation, resource efficiency, and economic benefits. Come and see yourself!
LENZING
The Lenzing Group stands for ecologically responsible production of specialty fibers made from the renewable raw material wood and strives for the efficient utilization and processing of all raw materials and offers solutions to help redirect the textile sector towards a sustainable industry. As an innovation leader, Lenzing is a partner of global textile manufacturers and drives many new technological developments. TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ is one of the sustainable fiber innovations which contributes to circular economy. The pioneering REFIBRA™ technology involves upcycling cotton scraps from garment production.
MER FABRIC
Mer Fabric, a fabric manufacturer specializing in garments, has exciting plans to introduce fresh woven fabrics in various categories such as shirts, pants, dresses, and childrenswear. Our aim is to cater to specific customer requirements with enhanced flexibility. Furthermore, we are actively engaged in advancing sustainable products, constantly striving to make notable progress in this area.
MMRA
MMRA is a Portuguese family business with 40 years of experience in circular knitting. It exports to several international markets, presents a wide range of natural, organic, recycled and synthetic products. Among the innovations, the use of compositions with mixtures of Nettle, Printed Yarns, Linen, Tencel, and banana with pineapple stands out. M.M.R.A. is committed to Oeko-Tex, Gots, GRS and OCS certifications.
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Circularity is key - Sustainable Innovations
Circularity is key
Pre-Loved von Studio Sarmite + Roua Atelier
Sustainable Innovations
From old to new: Pre-Loved is a biotextile concept in which new products are created from used post-consumer textile waste. In a unique production process, low-quality mixed textile fibres are transformed into a robust, paper- and leather-like material that is suitable for a variety of applications – from fashion to interior design and product design.
Designer Sarmite Polakova gives waste a new meaning in this context: instead of something negative, she perceives it as a surplus recyclable material that can, however, at the same time be a resource for the creation of something new – the focus here is on circularity: it is about the recyclability of the material; a product made by Studio Sarmite can be dissolved at the end of its life and the textile fibres can be used for the next production cycle. The lightweight material displays a processuality, revealing a new aesthetic and highlighting each previous life of a worn garment through nuances of colour and texture. It can feature marble-like patterns as well as hues accentuated by natural dyes.
“The term ‘waste’ should be seen as a surplus rather than something negative and thus can be turned into a resource for creating something new.”
SARMITE POLAKOVA
Cooperation is key – first Sarmite Polakova of Studio Sarmite teamed up with colour specialist Roua Alhalabi of Roua Atelier. The result of the collaboration is a groundbreaking dyeing method for blended fabrics based on natural pigments. The dyeing process is integrated into the production of the organic biotextiles and leads to a unique design language that gives room for surprising patterns and a certain playfulness. Moreover, the two designers have found a way to extract the dye during the recycling process of the textiles and use it for the next life cycle without the need for additional resources.
“Nature gives us a lot of resources that can be used in the natural dye industry. In fact, everything around us can be used to make color and support new materials. By using eco- riendly materials, we can become more sustainable and make a good impact.”
ROUA ALHALABI
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Next Generation Material - Sustainable Innovations
Next Generation Material
MYCOTEX by NEFFA von Aniela Hoitink
Sustainable Innovations
Bio-based, locally produced, on demand: that’s MYCOTEX by NEFFA – a flexible material whose properties lie somewhere between leather, plastic and artificial leather. Production takes place in three steps: First, customisable and/or recyclable forms are created in an automated 3D design process. With the help of liquid fermentation, innovative materials are produced – the technique works for mycelium, but is also suitable for other biomaterials. In the end, the final textiles are produced by robotic applications without any weaving, cutting or sewing. In this way, the modelling process is similar to the injection moulding process – except that only natural materials are used instead of plastics.
In leather production, the most resource-intensive factors are the land required for animal husbandry, the consumption of water for tanning, the energy required and the CO2 emissions. It is precisely in this production chain where MYCOTEX comes into play: Resource-saving robotic applications can save 10 to 30 percent of waste, and in addition, the production of materials and products takes place directly on site, so there are no emissions for transport. The textiles are biodegradable and can even be composted at home.
More than Mycelium: At the beginning of the project, founder Aniela Hoitink focused in particular on the material MYCOTEX. Within the last three years, this has developed into NEFFA, a completely automated manufacturing method for different types of biomaterials. NEFFA stands for New Fashion Factory. The innovative system is based on automation, can be recycled and offers unlimited freedom of design. The patented process offers unprecedented design freedom to create silhouettes and textures that would never have been possible with traditional manufacturing methods and creates a local and completely transparent process that can be adapted to constant changes. For the textiles of tomorrow.
“The fashion and textile industry is working on steps to improve: material innovation, better dyeing processes, a reduction of water, quick fixes that are needed right now. This will not be enough in the future. We need a big step to transform the industry. And we need it to be local, with a better working environment and without waste.”
ANIELA HOITINK
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The Fabric Trends Autumn.Winter 24/25 - Part III
Fabrics Highlights for Autumn.Winter 2024/ 25 - Part III
In the FABRICS Area, around 600 international suppliers present their material innovations for all apparel segments. The complete product portfolio of fashionable woven and knitted fabrics made of wool, cotton, silk, blends and functional fibres is represented here. For the Autumn.Winter 24/25 season, we present some highlights from international producers in our FABRICS blogposts:
GRATEX
Textiles are the fabric from which our passion is woven. Gratex is a reliable family business with 50 years of international experience, always on the pulse of the fashion world. As a partner of BCI and GOTS, they offer a large number of our articles with organic cotton.
The new collection for autumn.winter 24/25 consists of traditional and fashion prints, jacquard fabrics, lace, shirting and cosy knitwear.
The colour palette this season ranges from warming earthy tones to fresh pastel shades and vibrant purple and pink.
HÄNDEL + DILLER GMBH
Händel + Diller has been knitting fabrics in southern Germany since 1962. Under the premise of certified environmental and social standards, circular knitted fabrics are produced for manufacturers of lingerie, home- and sportswear, orthopaedics and technical applications. The range for the Autumn.Winter 24/25 collection also includes GOTS-certified wool fleece made of 100 % merinowool or in cotton blends, including jacquard patterns.
HEINRICH SUNDAG TEXTILDESIGN + VERTRIEB
Autumn/winter time is time for wool. Wool in many weights, knitting techniques and creative interpretations. Boiled wool 100% wool, uni or printed, boiled wool 80% wool+20% cotton in plain and colourful jacquards also with relief and tops, wool plush, wool fleece, wool knits, wool jerseys conventional, controlled organic animal husbandry and GOTS. Heavy wool-cotton jacquard knits Cotton teddy uni and as jacquards with wool – more wool is not possible!
JERSEY PRINT FACTORY
Discover the family-owned fabric company with 30+ years of industry experience: Jersey Print Factory offers custom, high-quality fabrics with no minimum order requirements. Find classic or contemporary designs at their booth and unleash your creativity with reactive printed fabrics. Bring your fashion dreams to life, one meter at a time. You can create custom apparel by simply upload your design and place your order. They’ll take care of the rest.
JJR SPIN TEXTILES LLP
The collection is inspired by floral motifs with natural geometric and abstract patterns. The colours are mainly natural tones with vibrant pops for added brightness. They use hand-woven tweed, computer and hand embroidery techniques. For embroidery, they work with various bases like sequins, velvet, wool, cotton, and viscose and also offer 100% silk tweed and blended fabrics. The new collection showcases the beauty of floral designs through hand-woven tweed, computer, and hand embroidery techniques. A range of fabric bases including silk and blends is used to create a visually stunning and textured collection.
KAYTEKS
Kayteks, established in 1965, is currently advancing its production adventure in the field of knitted fabrics and ready-made products. Priorities such as quality, on-time delivery, and quick response to customer requests have been determined as competitive priority. Sustainability, organic and analysis of trend products in knitted fabrics and products are the primary components that Kayteks follows in its R&D processes.
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Drawn by the sun - Sustainable Innovations
Drawn by the sun
SLOW PATTERNS von Meyers & Fügmann
Sustainable Innovations
Textiles as witnesses of time: SLOW PATTERNS is a collection by the Berlin studio Meyers & Fügmann that changes over time due to the influence of sunlight. This works by using an unconventional technique that combines the natural and the artificial. In concrete terms, this means that European is woven and dyed in Europe by hand, with the side effect of preserving traditional skills of the European textile industry. The collection combines wool with synthetic yarns. When the textiles are exposed to UV light, the natural dyes fade over time, while the stable synthetic colours retain their shades, changing the materials and eventually revealing delicate patterns.
The textiles have the peotic power of tracing time. The changes in the colours make the ageing process visible and make transience a subject of discussion – spiritual as well as material. Seeing the textiles develop creates an emotional relationship, as both the owners and the objects age side by side. The textiles thus reflect and make transience visible. In doing so, they raise questions about physical obsolescence. Instead of connoting these aspects negatively, SLOW PATTERNS encourages us to value the products over their entire lifespan and to accept and celebrate their changes as well as our own.
A sign against fast fashion: the low lightfastness of natural materials is often seen as a shortcoming. Meyers & Fügmann, on the other hand, show with their project how aesthetically natural colours change and that beauty can lie in this process. SLOW PATTERNS thus becomes a plea for the dignity and vitality of natural colours.
“Lightfastness is a relevant topic for future industries, as natural and recycled dyes and fibers demonstrate lower lightfastness.
Our approach is to show the liveliness of natural colours and romote them as a real alternative to synthetic dyes, opening markets for less durable colours. The aging process is designed into the product in order to foster a debate about slow consumerism and the relationship we have with our belonging.”
SARAH MEYERS AND LAURA FÜGMANN
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The Fabric Trends Autumn.Winter 24/25 - Part II
Fabrics Highlights for Autumn.Winter 24/25 - Part II
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ELYAF
Founded in 1989, Elyaf® is a women’s fabric and garment manufacturer, based on 22,000 square metres, as a fully integrated facility in Bursa, Turkey. Their focus is on sustainability through manufacturing value-added fabrics and garments without causing harm to people, the ecosystem and our planet.
ERSAT TEXTILE
ERSAT TEXTILE is one of the most successful fabric producers in TURKEY with its integrated factory from weaving till ready garment. ERSAT offers versatile production chains (Poliviscose, Polyester, Cotton, Linen, Wool blends with PES). They also produce fabrics (Recycled and Ecovero bases )for Men’s and Women’s Suits, Jackets, Pants, Outerwear, Dresses, Shirts etc. Dying and all finishing processes include 2,500,000mts capacity per month.
FABRIC & CO
FABRIC & CO offers a wide product range and focuses on environmentally friendly production with sustainable fabrics. Current trends are reflected in perfect harmony with prints and plain colors. Satins, recycled and natural looking fabrics and special touch effects result in great designs. Find different pattern colours and designs in the new collection.
FEINJERSEY
Feinjersey presents its new collection brand dfine. High end fabrics made in Austria – designed for the human body. The new dfine. collection is segmented into 5 sections:
Avant – Fashion Forward Fabrics (stock program),
Ivory – second skin underwear,
Apex – functional asthetics,
Forma – fluid shaping and
Armis – elite safety.
FORZA
Forza’s new autumn.winter 24/25 collection is a creation of elegant, stylish and casual prints: ikat. ethnic, watercolour, ombre, tie dye, patchwork, animalskin, monos with earthyand natural colours or combinations of bright, warm orange, purple, blue andt urquoise tones. Get creative inspiration at their booth with a variety of sustainable produced, light and heavy weight fabrics, dobby, structured weaves, twills, cord, satins, mesh as well as chiffons, cotton/linen blends.
GOTTSTEIN
Founded in 1926, Gottstein is an Austrian family-owned manufacturer located in the Tyrolean mountains. They are experts when it comes to felted wool fabrics and wet processing with experience for over four generations. This time their main focus for their AW 24/25 collection are reliefs and sculptural felted fabrics made of merino wool as well as undyed wool fabrics.
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Smart Knitting - Sustainable Innovations
Smart Knitting
Virtual Knitting by KNITWEAR LAB
Sustainable Innovations
When the programmers of KNITWEAR LAB teamed up with 3D software specialists, a completely new idea for more sustainable, cost-efficient and design-oriented pattern development and knitwear production emerged. By combining virtual and material knitting, it is possible to reduce the massive waste during the pattern and pre-production phase in the industry and to further advance knitwear development with the help of smart technologies. Knitting on a new level: The revolutionary aspect of the method is the combination of innovative-virtual 3D technology with classic-conventional knitwear. The virtual design can be implemented exactly as you see it, while the actual knitted fabric that you perceive haptically and visually can be virtualised exactly as it was knitted.
When knitting meets 3D software, there are several advantages. Designs can be improved and adjusted at an early stage in terms of design process or colouring to efficiently create virtually producible and realistic prototypes. In addition, the combination of knitwear and digital visualisation offers enormous savings potential: the waste of materials, resources and transport can thus be reduced. Furthermore, the fits for sampling and production are more accurate through Virtual Knitting, which is why, ideally, fewer samples need to be produced. Last but not least – the method significantly shortens the time from design to market and enables early commercial validation of the products, thus offering a win-win in the aspects of economic and ecological sustainabilit.
“A revolutionary method for industrial knitwear development:
A connection between virtual and material(physical) knitting, which creates a whole new world for sustainable, cost-efficient and design-driven sample development and knitwear production. KNITWEAR LAB will reduce the massive waste during the sample and pre-production stage in the industry with the use of extensive knitwear knowledge of the programmers of KNITWEAR LAB combined with the newest 3D software.”
Cherish Brouwer, Co-Founder & Designer Knitwear Lab
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The Fabric Trends Autumn.Winter 24/25 - Part I
Fabrics Highlights for Autumn.Winter 24/25 - Part I
In the FABRICS Area, around 600 international suppliers present their material innovations for all apparel segments. The complete product portfolio of fashionable woven and knitted fabrics made of wool, cotton, silk, blends and functional fibres is represented here. For the Autumn.Winter 24/25 season, we present some highlights from international producers in our FABRICS blogposts:
6Dias
6Dias looks forward to present their FW 24-25 Collection divided in 3 themes: UNNATURAL, BOTANICAL and PRACTICAL, for both Women and Men’s fashion. They produce and trade a wide range of products, such as Printings, Weaving, Jacquard, Denims, Pleated, Embroideries, etc. Visit their booth in H3 | E 03 or their showroom in Trofa and idealize your collection with them.
AKIN TEKSTIL
Focusing more to sustainable fabrics AKIN will present novelties made of PET bottles collected from oceans, abandoned FISHNETS and naturally color grown Cotton which doesn’t require any dyestuff or chemicals. Their range is completed with outstanding print designs showing patchworks, windows, luxury or nature.
BITZER + SINGLE
Starting in 1961, Bitzer+ Single has always been a modern trading agency and a strong partner for the textile industry. They offer a wide range of FABRICS and ACCESSORIES for products of the sportswear, lingerie and medical industry. Their goal is to create sustainability through consistency, organize short procurement tracks, integrate new ideas and always keep our finger on the pulse.
CANVASS TEKSTIL
Stripes and checks are often seen in fall/winter 2024-2025, tone on tone or through vibrant, ethnic colors. Checks bring movement to these colors and are in high demand as light and elegant checks. Degraded transitions give special effects to fabrics. Surfaces have metallic effects. Next to them are the colors of the floral world in traditional designs.
CANEL TEXTILE
Canel Textile, headquartered in Canel Plaza, Istanbul, Turkey, has been in business for 30 years. It is a financially sound business with a strong reputation in the market as a private label service provider of women’s ready-to-wear garments servicing both classic and contemporary brand styles. Their strong design team creates thousands of unique and fresh prints every year. The production is completely in-house. Come to Hall 3/D24 and be inspired by the new print collection with brushstroke optics, winterdark flowers and watercolor paisleys!
DUTEL
The new jacquard collection from Dutel for the season AW 24/25 is built around 5 themes: “Animal” features animal designs in natural or warm colours. “Bubble” offers swollen materials with 3D effects in vibrant or pastel colours. “Poison” is all about various patterns, silky aspects, dark colours and metallic. “Fable” offers natural materials, quilted effects, neutral colours and small figurative patterns. “Universal” focuses on the feminine-masculine look, neutral colours and comfortable materials.
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The clothing of the future - Sustainable Innovations
The clothing of the future
BIOTEXFUTURE Germany
Sustainable Innovations
Every year, more than 120 million tons of textile fibers are processed worldwide – more than a third of them are petroleum-based synthetic fibers, i.e. resource- and emission-intensive, causing waste and polluting the environment. An alternative is needed. But: Where do the fibers for the clothes of the future come from – are textiles that grow on trees or shoes that come from the sea a pure utopia?
As part of the BIOTEXFUTURE Germany innovation space, leading research teams from the textile sector and industry are driving forward the development of bio-based textiles. Their aim is to accelerate the structural change towards a bioeconomy in this sector. On top of that, the ambition is also to find alternatives and solutions for some of the most important challenges currently facing the textile industry – from impregnation and dyes to elastane alternatives as well as textile recycling and microplastic filling in sports fields. On the research side, one of the world’s leading Institutes for Textile Technology at RWTH Aachen University (ITA) is responsible together with the Chair of Technology and Organisational Sociology (STO). For the industry, this part is taken over by the global company adidas AG.
Bye bye, plastic! The long-term goal is to be able to replace virgin polyester as a raw material. In concrete terms, this means that BIOTEXFUTURE is working in ten different projects to convert the individual steps along the textile value chain from petroleum-based to bio-based in the future plus to make the basic research carried out for this purpose accessible to the broad masses as quickly as possible. From algae to artificial turf to fungi: the idea behind the project ALGAETEX, for example, is to use biopolymers obtained from algae for use in textiles. BioTurf is about the development of an artificial turf structure made of bio-polyethylene that is at least as efficient as the petroleum-based materials used so far while being recyclable and without microplastic filling at the same time; the Fungal Fibers project is about the production of bio-based textile fibers from a promising fungusbased production process for the sports and medical sectors.
“The textile industry is not yet sustainable and burdened with massive environmental problems. Natural raw materials and ew textile technologies are a great opportunity for the future to meet the numerous challenges of the textile industry. This concerns the replacement of petroleum for polyester roduction by biological materials such as algae or fungi as well as bio-based coatings, dyes or completely new manufacturing processes. However, the major challenges of the textile sector can only be solved in close cooperation between research and industry. This is why we are committed to the BIOTEXFUTURE innovation space and would like to attract numerous new supporters in the coming years.”
Nicole Espey, Project Manager BIOTEXFUTURE
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MUNICH FABRIC START - closing report
Nothing ventured, nothing gained
CLOSING REPORT
MUNICH FABRIC START | BLUEZONE | KEYHOUSE | THE SOURCE
The most important fabric trends for Autumn.Winter 2024/25, lectures and discussions on the most relevant industry topics as well as plenty of networking opportunities: after three days, Germany’s largest and most important fabric trade show, MUNICH FABRIC START, with over 1,100 collections on display, came to an end yesterday, Thursday. The international and, compared to pre-covid times, restrained transcontinental travel behaviour of the fashion industry and the general changes in the market are also partly reflected at MUNICH FABRIC START – the fundamentally positive mood on the part of exhibitors and visitors at the trade show, which took place for the first time at an early July date, proved that the trade show location Munich is set for fabric sourcing.
After three days full of program, networking, inspiration and fashion business, the 52nd edition of the international trade show MUNICH FABRIC START came to an end yesterday, Thursday. The anniversary edition of the denim trade show BLUEZONE, which celebrated its 20th birthday this summer, the onestop sourcing platform THE SOURCE and the innovation hub KEYHOUSE closed their doors for this season on Wednesday evening after two days.
“MUNICH FABRIC START has once again proven itself to be the platform with the strengths it is known for: in a highly professional working environment, with reliable top quality of the international exhibitor portfolio and diverse opportunities for inspiration, information and networking, MUNICH FABRIC START as a one-stop destination offers almost everything needed to create collections bundled in one place. The fact that we are able to offer this qualitative continuity as a trade show in transformative times, in which much of the fashion business is being re-adjusted and put to the test, is honoured by our visitors, exhibitors and partners and confirms our conviction that MUNICH FABRIC START brings together the right people at the right place and on the right topics.”
Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director MUNICH FABRIC START Exhibitions GmbH
“After intensive discussions with a large number of relevant market participants, we decided to take a progressive step and reposition MUNICH FABRIC START in terms of the date. After three days of the show, we can state that all those for whom this early date is relevant have been here in Munich and have been able to do successful business. At the same time, we simply have to note that the days of crowds of visitors pushing their way through the exhibition halls are over and that success and quality are expressed differently today. The need for information and orientation is becoming more and more important: fully attended trend lectures and the large number of panels where future-relevant topics were discussed controversially show how important personal contact is for the industry. I would even go so far to say that the joy of meeting and exchanging ideas in person, working together on collections and inspiring each other or celebrating together is essential for releasing the creativity that is essential for fashion’s survival – and we definitely felt this joy during the past three days.”
Frank Junker, Creative Director der MUNICH FABRIC START Exhibitions GmbH
MUNICH FABRIC START is now looking forward to the near future with anticipation: first and foremost, reVIEW Autumn.Winter 24/25, which will celebrate its premiere at Motorworld on 13 and 14 September 2023 – and thus on the date previously reserved for MFS and BLUEZONE. With this new venue in Munich, it offers the industry, as usual, a late order date that is perfect for follow-ups and research into the latest market developments. As a new concept, reVIEW replaces the previous VIEW PREMIUM SELECTION and fits harmoniously and seamlessly into the trade show portfolio of Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH. It thus enables the still important September date as an essential time for quick orders, innovations and developments in the fashion industry.
“MUNICH FABRIC START is like visiting friends. It doesn’t feel like work at all. That’s how you
want a trade show to be.”
Pia Geisler, RND – Hugo Boss
“We are very very happy with the new date in July. I have been saying for a long time that the September date is too late and I am very happy about the postponement. The collections are now ready and there is no reason to wait any longer with the sales. Price, price, price – that’s THE topic we’re discussing with all our customers at the moment.”
Thomas Püttmann, Inhaber – Textilagentur Püttmann
“My quintessence: it’s early, but good. MUNICH FABRIC START provides continuity and constancy in the present time. That is simply nice. Everyone is here, you find each other. And yes, the date is early, but that suits me for slow fashion.”
Claudia Lanius, Geschäftsführerin – Lanius
Trends: what we will see in Autumn.Winter 24/25
Due to its much earlier summer date for the first time this year, MUNICH FABRIC START once again increased its relevance as a place for early trend research. The five exclusively developed, central aesthetic trends for the winter season 2024/2025 are united under the leitmotiv “each other” and were staged over a wide area in the foyers of the MOC: Highland Hybrids: a patchwork of nature, tradition and performance; Mystic Beings: the fantasy world of elves, heroes, monsters and robots; System Cringe: a movement that calls for action; Kinky Classics: provocatively extroverted with style and Past Forward, a retro-futuristic point of view. “In the past, entire worlds of colours and materials were excluded from the outset for women because they were not compatible with our outdated ideas of the beautiful and weak gender. And it is precisely these colours and materials that women are now conquering. For the first time in the history of fashion, women are now wearing the colours of concrete, anthracite charcoal and mud and materials like bacon saddle leather, stiff raw denim and scratchy tweed,” says Carl Tillessen, CEO of DMI, summarising the most striking shifts. The DMI Fashion Day, which took place the day before the show at the MOC, also celebrated a successful premiere, creating synergies for visitors and exhibitors alike.
“The most important trends for Autumn/Winter 24/25 are soft touches in different finishes and construction, 3D effects, cross-overs for newly interpreted jacquards, velvet effects and contrast doubles. The colors of the season are light beige and naturals, pastel green, dark green, cobalt and the full range of dark colors with a high importance of brown.”
Giancarlo Biancalani – Fabrica Tessuti
Edutainment – future-oriented and sustainable application scenarios
In addition to the extensive trend information for Autumn.Winter 2024/25, the show offered a diverse program of lectures with panel discussions, inspiring keynotes and lectures. Around 35 agenda items and over 50 speakers ensured a comprehensive edutainment experience. Future-oriented sustainable material developments – from research to the finished product – were discussed by Simon Angel, Sustainable Innovations Curator, with Nicole Espey from Biotexfuture, among others. VirtualKnitting, Mycotex, AlgaeTex, BioTurf, BioBase, CO2TEX and BioCoat are just some of the innovations that were presented and discussed. Everyone agreed that it is important that industry and research work closely together in a network to really make progress. Otherwise, research projects remain in research and do not make it to market – “the Death Valley of research” as Espey called it. The upcoming and partly already implemented legal regulations as well as their concrete effects on the entire fashion and textile industry took up a large part of the discussion. In three application-oriented sessions and discussion rounds, Rolf Heimann, Chairman & CEO of the Hessnatur Foundation, showed how and where companies can start in their supply chain to promote recyclable products and processes and how these can be integrated into corporate practice.
Kim van der Weerd, Intelligence Director of the Transformers Foundation, presented the new guide “An Apparel Supplier’s Guide to Key Sustainability Legislation in the EU, US and UK”, which was launched on Thursday. It presents twelve international regulations and their requirements that companies can expect in the coming years – with a clear focus on textile manufacturers. “It is a large number of regulations for suppliers to fulfill in the near future. My advice: look at it as a holistic business change. It will not only involve the sustainability teams, but also HR, sourcing and others”, Kim van der Weerd summarised the legislative changes coming to the industry at the panel accompanying her keynote with Danijela Cafuta (Lenzing AG), Rashid Iqbal (Naveena Denim NDL) and Ilishio Lovejoy (Simple Approach). During the panel “Newtopia – Reconstructing the Jeans of the Future from Scratch”, Panos Sofianos discussed the future of denim with Jordan Nodarse (Bossa), Romain Narcy (Ereks & Era Denim Group), Hamit Yenici (Hich Solutions), Christina Agtzidou (Tom Tailor Group) and Marco Lucietti (Sanko Holding ISKO Division):
“Bast in general is a good competitor to the good old cotton. I think bast has a great future. But I see it from a mainstream side as well – it is still very expensive and it’s difficult to implement. Mills should make it more approachable,” Christina Agtzidou brought up a rethink at fibre level. Marco Lucietti called for an even broader shift: “We have to shift the paradigm towards consumption. It’s not just about reduce and reuse. Now is the time of NOT using any new materials of virgin fibers. We have to close the loop and make recycled products accessible to the market.”
“We need to create more fashion that costs money. This is about the question: what value does fashion have for us? And what is it worth to us to buy a sustainable product? We all have to work towards a different way of thinking, so that we also pay for things according to their value again,” Karin Schmitz, Business Development Director Peclers Paris aptly summarised the status quo of the current discussions in the industry during her trend lecture.
ConneXXion – 20 years of BLUEZONE
BLUEZONE celebrated a special anniversary summer: in addition to 150 years of the jeans patent, 70 years of Orta and 50 years of the Ruedi Karrer Jeans Museum Zurich, the aim was to celebrate its own round birthday – 20 years of BLUEZONE – in a fitting manner. More than 100 denim and sportswear specialists transformed the completely booked Munich Zenith area into a blue hotspot and showed the relevant fabric developments for the coming autumn. The MUNICH FABRIC NIGHT on Tuesday evening provided a worthy setting for the birthday party – the DJ Crew Geschwister Schall heated up the party-hungry MUNICH FABRIC START and BLUEZONE guests in the open air with beats and bites.
Panels and talks with Women in Denim, Mohsin Sajid and The 5 Denim Senses of AMD Düsseldorf, additional installations such as the photo exhibition “The World’s best Denim Fades” by Bryan Szabo, founder of The Indigo Invitational, the exhibition by designer Ksenia Schnaider and a special presentation by “The Jeans Museum” Zurich, through which Ruedi Karrer himself gave guided tours, made the Zenith area much more than a place to order. Ten denim trends were presented in the BLUEZONE: Old Money, Cover Up, Special Operations, Starsystem, Generational Baggies, Nope Indigo, S-Art-orial, Unbleached Nature, Lowriders and Belts ‘n Buckles. Curator of the denim trends at BLUEZONE is Tilmann Wröbel, Creative Director & Founder Monsieur-T. Denim Lifestyle Studio. The closing words and at the same time key take-away of his trend presentation were: “We are not expected to sell only pants anymore.” This became more than clear in the ten trend themes, because denim is present in fashion everywhere and in every facet and style – from tops, blazers, jackets and suits and outdoor with jackets and coats to haute couture gowns.
“BLUEZONE was good. We had a lot of customers. Big brands like MAC, Adriano Goldschmied, Gardeur and Angels were there as well as smaller brands. There was a strong interest in our fabrics with brown and regenerated cotton as well as Renewcell.”
Müge Tunceren, Product Development Manager – Bossa
“We exhibit at MUNICH FABRIC START for a very long time already. This year, it is our first time in Hall 6, and we are very happy to be here, as the surroundings are fresh, spacious, and well-lit. As we are quite strong in the German market, we always schedule our appointments before the show and don’t expect random visitors. Many of the big German brands were here, and we’re pleased with how it went.“
Dr. Dilek Erik, Global Marketing Manager – Sharabati Denim
One-Stop-Innovation & One-Stop-Sourcing
At KEYHOUSE – the innovation and sustainability hub of MUNICH FABRIC START – everything once again revolved around technological and ecological progress. The Sustainable Innovations as a special presentation area for outstanding new developments on the borderline between start-up and scalability were once again one of the absolute visitor magnets of the show. The ReSource Area in Hall 2 of the MOC was also all about sustainability. The meta-platform for certified ecologically and socially produced fabrics and accessories has been showcasing the green solutions of the show’s exhibitors in one place for over ten years now, thus enabling visitors to engage in targeted sustainable sourcing.
“Right now, I think the industry is getting better as we are educating it. Acting sustainably at this moment means that we need the industry to do less bad. That’s all we’re asking for at the moment. And then we build on that progress. Within the next five years, the goal is to surpass this stage so that we no longer have to educate the industry and persuade it to become sustainable; instead, we need to ensure they are inherently sustainable from the beginning. This way, improvement won’t be an afterthought but rather a primary consideration right from the start.“
Muchaneta ten Napel, Founder & CEO –
Shape Innovate, CCI Taskforce for UN
“The mood in the market is good. The development of 3D production is a big topic in the industry – especially on the first day of the show we noticed this in the operation at our stand, which we were very satisfied with. On the second day it could have been a bit more crowded. The potential of 3D manufacturing is so great, even companies that were still sceptical a year ago now see the need for it,” says Fabian Grünwald, Key Account Manager at Assyst, pleased about the industry’s increasing openness to technology.
For the second time, the show-in-show THE SOURCE took place on 18 and 19 July as an integrated area of MUNICH FABRIC START and rounded off the MUNICH FABRIC START ecosystem in the direction of apparel manufacturing. Around 60 selected apparel manufacturers showed their product and service lines in Hall 8 of the Dampfdom in Motorworld and thus directly adjacent to the MOC and the Zenith area.
“I’m here for the first time. It’s good, with a nice environment. It is not packed, but I’m satisfied.”
Renee Chen – CW Fashion International Inc
“Overall, we draw a positive conclusion. We had less new contacts, but all important customers were here. In comparison to the other trade shows we visited within the last weeks this is the best event.”
Mohan Sundaram, General Manager – Compass Tex
Hard Facts & Figures
On a total of 42,500 square metres, MUNICH FABRIC START in Munich brought together the fashion and denim industry in eight areas – Additionals, Per4mance, ReSource, Fabrics, Design Studios, BLUEZONE, KEYHOUSE / Sustainable Innovations and THE SOURCE. Over 1,100 collections from around 900 international suppliers to the textile and apparel industry were presented by internationally renowned exhibitors such as Algaeing, Assyst, Cadica, Calik, CNC, Denim Authority, Isko, KBC, Kurabo, Liberty, Lisa, Naveena Denim, NDL, Orta, Royo, Saitex, Sharabati, Sorona, Takisade, Tessuti, WeNordic and Yünsa.
With a total of 10,800 visitors from 56 countries – most of them from Germany, Italy, France, Spain, The Netherlands, Turkey as well as China, but also from Japan, New Zealand and the US – from relevant brands and retailers, including Adidas, Akris, Anna van Toor, Armedangels, Baldessarini, Betty Barclay, BMW, Brax, Calvin Klein, Calida, Cambio, Camel Active, Comma, Drykorn, Escada, Esprit, Gerry Weber, Holy Fashion Group, Hugo Boss, IB Company, Inditex, Katag, Lagerfeld, Living Crafts, Lodenfrey, Luisa Cerano, MAC Mode, Marc Cain, Marc O’Polo, Mey, More & More, Murkudis, Olsen, Olymp, Orsay, Otto, Oui, Peek & Cloppenburg, Puma, QVC, Riani, S. Oliver, Schumacher, Seidensticker, Strellson, Talbot Runhof, Tommy Hilfiger, Tom Tailor and Uli Schneider among others, the number of visitors was slightly down overall in a competitive market environment.
Looking to the near future, MUNICH FABRIC START is now focusing on three important dates that have already been fixed: firstly, reVIEW Autumn.Winter 24/25 will take place for the first time at Motorworld on 13 and 14 September 2023 – and thus covers the previous time period of MFS and BLUEZONE – offering the industry a late ordering date in Munich as usual. Only ten weeks later, preVIEW will take place on 28 and 29 November 2023, offering a first opportunity to order the Spring/Summer collections for 2025. Finally, the industry will gather again for MUNICH FABRIC START and BLUEZONE from 23 to 25 January 2024.
FURTHER VOICES:
“MUNICH FABRIC START is indisputably important for us. We get an overview here and see what’s special. We actually always find what we are looking for. Specifically, we look for alternatives to cotton. But the show is always an important date for me to maintain long-standing contacts and exchange experiences.”
Marion Heinrich, Head of Purchasing Fabric – MAC
“The show was a super mix of interesting lectures and panels, talks with initiatives, with start-ups in the Innovation Area in KEYHOUSE and exhibitors at BLUEZONE and MUNICH FABRIC START. We just talked about it in the team: many of our problems have been solved because we have found the solutions for them in the past two days. In particular, we were interested in topics around sustainability and 3D fabrics.”
Sabine Franke, Fabric Specialist Fabric Management – Bon Prix
“80 years of Manteco – we are celebrating our anniversary year. We took this as an opportunity to look in our archive and to develop materials that unite the present, future and past – always under the aspect of sustainability, of course. Customers no longer just want to see new fabric developments from us as weavers, but also a story and a concept for it. Storytelling, sustainability and prices – these are the three main topics that everything is about.”
Emiliano Bertoli, Sales Manager – Manteco
“This is our first time at MUNICH FABRIC START and it is the right show for us. Everything is super organised, clear and we had VERY good conversations. Customers approach us specifically because they are looking for bamboo and there is also a great demand for products produced in Europe. From a leading children’s car seat manufacturer to suppliers of sailing clothing and medical products to young designers – the mix was very good and perfect for us as a start-up for high-performance fabrics.”
Sabine Bahner, Product Manager – Visbatex
“The mood here is always good. We like to come here every summer and winter – to sort fabrics, meet suppliers and find out about upcoming trends. It’s a pity that the Asian exhibitors aren’t represented as much anymore.”
Ivan Paglialunga, Senior Designer Tailoring – S. Oliver BLACK LABEL WOMEN
“For me, bio-based materials are the future. But it is also clear that we could not live in a world where products are only made of bio materials.”
Aniela Hoitink, Founder – MYCOTEX by NEFFA
