Keyhouse
CLOUDWOOL - Sustainable Innovations
CLOUDWOOL by MARTIN BRAMBLEY
Sustainable Innovation from Local Wool
Sustainable Innovations
Cloudwool, presented by Martin Brambley, is an oasis of sustainability in the textile universe, introducing pure, local wool of new quality to the market. The projects name symbolises not just an island in the sky but also the unity of environmentally conscious production and high-quality materials.
In a time where natural wool is often imported and blended with synthetic fibers, Cloudwool relies on local resources and fights against the neglect of local sheep farmers’ wool. The sustainable angle of Cloudwool emerges from the desire to bring local fibers to the market in new and exciting forms. The 100% local wool, typically considered waste, is transformed into a super-soft and durable fabric through nonwoven technology – without burdening the environment. Natural, breathable, and comfortable, Cloudwool integrates the natural properties of wool into the material to make it as exceptional as possible.
From farm to fabric, Cloudwool relies on local resources, creating a traceable supply chain in collaboration with European sheep farmers. The company pays farmers up to 5 times more than the market price for their wool and produces Cloudwool locally using energy-efficient processes. Together with Cloudwool, you’re not just shaping clothing but also reshaping silhouettes and textures. This isn’t just ordinary wool fabric – with more personality and far fewer post-processing possibilities, the potential is endless.
Doppelhaus, the company behind Cloudwool, was founded by Martin Brambley and Yolanda Leask. In a world where sustainable fashion must be affordable, they are committed to creating sustainable materials for a circular, low-carbon fashion industry of the future. Their innovative approach utilizes efficient nonwoven textile production techniques in line with Cradle-to-Cradle principles.
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Kantamanto Social Club
The mission of Kantamanto Social Club is clear: to empower communities in the Global South. It aims to shine a spotlight on communities, particularly those whose circular and regenerative practices have been undervalued for too long.
Curiosity, Courage and Craftmanship
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CO2 Tex - Sustainable innovations
CO2 Tex
by BIOTEXFUTURE
Revolutionary Sustainability In The Textile Industry
Sustainable Innovations
Within the BIOTEXFUTURE cluster, the CO2Tex project introduces innovative paths for sustainable elastic yarns. In the context of the overarching BIOTEXTFUTURE project, the Institute for Textile Technology (ITA) and the Chair for Technology and Organizational Sociology (STO) at RWTH Aachen, together with adidas, strive to achieve the transition of the entire textile value chain to bio-based materials.
CO2Tex stands out as a central project within BIOTEXFUTURE, focusing on CO2-containing thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) as an alternative to conventional elastane. This project revolutionizes elastic yarn production by eliminating toxic solvents, not only reducing environmental impact but also enabling potential industrial mass production.
The overarching BIOTEXFUTURE project, led by ITA, STO, and adidas, aims for a swift translation of fundamental research into practical applications. Traditional textiles are to be replaced by sustainable, biobased materials, with CO2Tex playing a pivotal role by demonstrating advancements in the development of commercially viable elastic filament yarns from CO2-containing TPU.
CO2Tex’s goal by October 2024 is to establish these environmentally friendly yarns on an industrial scale, replacing conventional elastane. The project not only focuses on technological advancements but positions itself as a pioneer for sustainable development across the textile industry. By integrating CO2Tex into BIOTEXFUTURE, the vision of an eco-friendly and bio-based future in the textile industry takes a significant step forward.
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MUNICH FABRIC START Januar 2024 - Closing Report
LOOKING TO THE FUTURE WITH CAUTIOUS OPTIMISM
CLOSING REPORT
MUNICH FABRIC START | BLUEZONE | KEYHOUSE | THE SOURCE
The Spring.Summer 2025 edition of MUNICH FABRIC START came to an end yesterday afternoon. Under the motto “CLARITY”, designers, buyers, product managers and decisionmakers were able to view the latest products and services for the new season from around 1,000 international suppliers, spread over the eight areas ADDITIONALS, FABRICS, ReSOURCE, BLUEZONE, DESIGN STUDIOS, KEYHOUSE, SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS and THE SOURCE.
The essence of the meeting of the European fashion industry: we are experiencing a return to our roots to meet the growing need for orientation – supported by a variety of exciting sustainable and AI-supported solutions that can pave the way to the future for the industry.
“We’re very pleased: MUNICH FABRIC START is and remains a central fixture for the fashion industry. Over the past few days, clarity and orientation have proven to be the current mega topics of our industry. Now is the time for everyone to reflect on their own strengths and focus on how to play to them. This applies to our visitors, exhibitors and ourselves as organizers. Our core competence is the creation of a space for business, inspiration and interaction. And we are told from all directions that this place will become even more important in the future. In this respect, we are proud that we have once again succeeded in creating it and are already looking forward to getting straight into planning the next season.”
Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director MUNICH FABRIC START Exhibitions GmbH
Frank Junker, Creative Director der MUNICH FABRIC START Exhibitions GmbH
Trends: Spring.Summer 25
Looking at trends for Spring.Summer 2025, various developments emerged: on the one hand, a return to the familiar, the tried and tested, with a focus on craftsmanship and clear shapes. The nostalgia is partially broken up by complementary statement pieces from the athleisure or, in women’s fashion, lingerie sector. Denim is omnipresent in the coming season – not least because it is probably the most democratic fabric and can be translated into any quality and price category. In womenswear, there will be new interpretations of the men’s shirt, which will be deconstructed in its classic masculine forms. The focus will be on natural materials such as linen and hemp, not least in the area of new casual work wear, especially in combination with warm neutrals and broken facets of white. We will also continue to see lots of pastels – albeit in new nuances, balanced by an earthy colour palette.
This time, the main focus of the supplementary program was on sustainability – be it natural innovative fibers and their disruptive potential for a more sustainable fashion industry, recycling issues and the associated EU regulations that will challenge the industry, or helpful instructions on how various players can prepare for this today. Platforms such as KEYHOUSE play a major part in this transition by building bridges between young, creative thinkers, research and industry players.
On January 23 and 24, BLUEZONE once again transformed the Zenith Area into the absolute denim hot spot. The entire blue-blooded community met here to explore the future of the denim industry. The transformation of the denim industry towards even greater sustainability remains a key topic: cradle-2-cradle concepts, innovative recycling processes and resource-efficient washing, dyeing and finishing technologies were often the focus of the collections presented, as well as stand and aisle discussions and trend lectures. The Denim Deal, which has now been signed by 53 market-leading denim companies, was initially presented in Germany at the BLUEZONE stage. It aims to make the use of recycled materials mandatory in new textile products. The Hall of Fame brought the BLUEZONE “Signature” leitmotif to life by showcasing personal pieces by fashion icons such as Jason Denham, Adriana Galijasevic, Adriano Goldschmied or Renzo Rosso and telling their respective stories. Personal encounters and exchange were also the motto of MUNICH FABRIC NIGHT, where all MUNICH FABRIC START exhibitors and visitors brought the dance floor to a boil in the Dampfdom at Motorworld on the evening of the first day of the show.
In just a few months’ time, the next key event for the European fashion industry will be the VIEW Premium Selection on June 18 and 19 at Motorworld to kick off the Autumn.Winter 25 season. The June event offers an initial inspiring overview of upcoming trends and innovations in the areas of Fabrics, Denim & Sportswear, Additionals and Design Studios for the coming season, and is therefore an essential time for quick ordering, innovations and developments in the fashion industry ahead of the important September event.
KEY FIGURES & HARD FACTS
Over the past three days, 11,700 visitors came to the Munich MOC and the Zenith Area. Many important brands, such as adidas, Akris, Alberto, Alpha Tauri, Anna van Toor, Armed Angels, Baldessarini, Bestseller, Betty Barclay, BMW, Bogner, Brax, C&A, Carhartt, Closed, Comma, Condé Nast, Digel, Diesel, Drykorn, Escada, Eterna, Ganni, Hessnatur, Holy Fashion Group, HSE, Hugo Boss, Inditex, Joop, Katag, Lagerfeld, Lanius, Lodenfrey, Mac, Maloja, Marc Cain, Marc O’Polo, März, Mey, More&More, Mustang, MyTheresa, Oui, Remei, Riani, Roxy, s. Oliver, Schumacher, Seidensticker, Sportalm, Talbot Runhof, Tchibo, Tom Tailor, Tory Burch, Windsor and Wolford were on site.
The visitors came from 58 countries, mainly from Eastern Europe, Germany, Italy, Scandinavia, the UK, the Benelux countries, but also from South America, the USA, the UAE, Saudi Arabia and Oceania. Complimented by a comprehensive supplementary program with prominent and international speakers from various areas of the industry and numerous opportunities for networking, MUNICH FABRIC START once again impressed with its integrated concept.
Further voices:
“For me, MUNICH FABRIC START is not just a trade show for inspiration, but for working. I get a good overview of the collections and suppliers here. The portfolio is very good. I make use of all fair days, have fixed appointments, order samples, make print developments. MUNICH FABRIC START is a well-organized platform. For me, the Munich location is also good and easy to reach.”
Catrin Schanz, Head of Design, Seductive
“MUNICH FABRIC START is a permanent fixture in our seasonal calendar and has absolutely established itself for us. Nowhere else do we have the opportunity to see so many collections in one go.”
Stefan Grupe, Design Specialist, Windsor
“In the textile industry, substantial technical innovation towards sustainability comes from research. The Keyhouse is the perfect platform for us to bridge the gap between research and practice. Sustainable Innovations as an interaction area for demonstrators and prototypes has proven effective again this January. Here, we meet the right industry partners, who transfer the great technological innovations from science into a scaled commercial implementation.”
Nicole Espey – Projektmanagement Office BioTexFuture
“MUNICH FABRIC START is such a great trade show. This season I worked really, really well with the colors of the Trend Forecasts. It was great that they were ready so early this time. We are actually finished with our concept. Our color themes are confirmed. As well when I look into winter. We always enjoy listening to the presentations, especially on the subject of sustainability. Unfortunately, we won’t be able to do that this time as we’ll only be here for one day due to the strike of Deutsche Bahn.”
Andiné Jenauth – Head of Design Womenswear, Eterna
“Platforms like Keyhouse are crucial for the industry – especially the next generation of creators, who want to work towards a more sustainable future. Discussing and making connections with other creatives and experts opens up new perspectives and helps to reinspire me for my own project!”
Natasha Amisha – Founder Honestly Hemp
“This was our first time exhibiting at BLUEZONE and it was great – interested parties from pioneering eco labels to luxury brands approached us about cooperation opportunities. The message is clear: you will only be successful in 2024 if you can offer real and relevant product innovations.”
Sebastian Thies – nat-2.
“BLUEZONE has proven to be the right platform for us to launch The Denim Deal in Germany. It has shown us the power of collaboration and the impact it can have on the circular economy. We believe that by bringing more players together and sharing the same values, we can make a real difference in the denim supply chain. The industry is recognizing the importance of being a part of this movement, and we are excited to continue working towards our goals. We’re looking forward to more exciting activities during the next show in September.”
Nicolas Prophte – Brand Representative of DENIM DEAL Steering Committee
“Our linear supply chains need to change into circular supply chains. We need to link the people – the weavers and spinners, the collectors and the brands – to unify our language and to work towards the same goals. We need a spirit of collaboration. Let’s get ready Germany! Before EPR (Extended Producer Responsibility) is coming. We have to show it’s possible. Now. And together.”
Romain Narcy – Partner Strategy and Innovation, Ereks
“A lot has changed because most fabric suppliers now come to us directly. But I still think it’s important to go to trade shows: for first impressions, presentations and the atmosphere. We still add a day in the city center. MUNICH FABRIC START is a must-attend event and we always enjoy coming.”
Jörg Labatz – Division Head Cartoon/Vera Mont, Betty Barclay
“The demand for sustainable fabrics is ever-increasing. We developed a unique transfer print procedure which is considerably more resource-efficient and environmentally friendly than traditional dyeing techniques, which require a lot of water and energy. And: it has no effect on the material itself, no matter if Tencel or denim. BLUEZONE is the perfect occasion for us to present this solution to our European customers and build on the success we already have in other markets.”
Serhat Tosyalı – Sales Director Prosperity Textile
Discover more industry-changing innovations at our upcoming trade fairs:
KEYHOUSE 2024 trends spring.summer25
KEYHOUSE
Innovation Hub For Tomorrow's Fashion
In the atmospheric industrial charm of KEYHOUSE, Hall 5, progressive suppliers and global players from cross-industry sectors will be showcasing their latest new developments and innovations. On over 1,000 square metres, you will find trend-setting future fabrics and new process technologies – be it in terms of sustainability, circular economy, digitalisation & AI, traceability, textile dyeing or finishing. Staged as an interactive think tank, future-oriented show cases will be in the spotlight alongside sustainable innovations.
KEYHOUSE is also home to the main lecture forum of MUNICH FABRIC START with exclusive keynotes, panel discussions, trend presentations, Q&A sessions & expert talks by international industry insiders. Be inspired by the wide range of events at KEYHOUSE.
BRIGHTFIBRE
BRIGHT.FIBER® INSIDE: 100% circular – end2end – solution provider. We turn your old clothes into new textile. Brightfiber Textiles works in a fully closed loop and turns post consumer textile waste from the end consumer, into brand new collections. Brightfiber Textiles works with local waste streams and automatically sort, clean and process material into BRIGHT.FIBER’s in their circular factory in Amsterdam.100% circular stock yarns are produced in beautiful, contemporary and seasonal colors. BRIGHT.FIBER minimizes the use of virgin resources and offers circular and sustainable end2end solutions.
EEDEN
eeden enables the production of fibers such as Lyocell, Viscose, or Polyester from end-of-life textiles. They have developed a holistic upcycling technology to extract cellulose and polyester from discarded fabrics. Their process is in line with EU regulations, conserving resources and offering a scalable, circular solution to the waste challenges of the textile industry. Visit them at the KEYHOUSE and learn more about their upscale.
EYAND
EYAND presents a collection with a large range of natural colours, all with very good colour fastness. Certified with Oeko-tex and GOTS. Their natural dye cotton, wool, cashmere and silk garments and offer a full package service from the knitting of the fabric, Inhouse workshop for pattern making and proto samples and garment dyeing with their natural colours.
SOKO
Following its innovative nature, the Italy based chemical company Soko has recently launched the “Projects Division” which aims to become the research department open to collaborations – on a project basis – for all players in the textile industry. The Projects Division will evaluate, analyse and seek solutions for specific targets which will be rised from the corresponding partner or Soko itself. The work will range from the optimisation of the washing process, to new finishing techniques and any topic which may constitute a challenge or a discussion.
STRATASYS
Stratasys, a 3D printing solutions pioneer, introduces the first 3D printer designed for direct-to-textile printing: the J850™ TechStyle™. Powered by their 3DFashion™ technology, it is already revolutionizing prototyping and manufacturing in the fashion and automotive sectors, enabling unparalleled design complexity and customization. Their technology accelerates lead times, enhances design flexibility, and supports sustainable production, with more applications continually emerging.
WKS
COMBAT CLOTHING WASTE – WKS Group, an established textile solutions provider with 7 European locations, offers an extensive range of sustainable services throughout the fashion supply chain. These include quality assurance, reverse logistics, and personalized recovery strategies for damaged bulk productions. Introducing RE-VOGUE VENTURES, the circular initiative for the resale and refurbishment of second-hand garments involves the management of trade-ins professional renewal/ repair, and re-commerce of pre-loved clothing. This endeavour underscores WKS Group’s commitment to reducing clothing waste by transforming secondhand items into first-choice options, maximizing the lifespan of each garment.
YOONA.AI
yoona.ai Suite seamlessly merges Data Analytics and Generative AI, revolutionizing design as a collaborative interplay between human creativity and technological expertise. Every stroke, colour, and form is shaped by data-driven insights and empowered by AI-generated possibilities. This innovative synergy transforms design into a dynamic, strategic process, aligning aesthetics with market trends. Yoona AI Suite charts a course toward an evolved design landscape that captivates aesthetically while staying finely attuned to the pulse of the market – a fusion where human ingenuity dances alongside technological advancement, shaping a visionary future for design.
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YÜNSA
Leading fashion trends with its innovative products developed with a focus on sustainability, Yünsa responds to increasing comfort expectations with highly elastic, functional fabrics, while offering a rich variety of colors and patterns that appeal to all ages and styles. Developed to meet the needs of different customers, Yünsa collections offer quality, elegance and comfort together with the latest fashion.
ZEYNAR
In Zeynar autumn.winter 24/25 collection the color focuses of the season are intense rust, apricot crush, matcha, and plum. The combination of plum with matcha is futuristic and calming. Aprico Crush stands for hope and raises positivity which is rounded off by a little autumn dust with intense rust. As environmental-friendly company, they focus on continuously developing sustainable fabrics in their entire collection.
KARMA KOKTEYL KNITTINGS
Karma Kokteyl is a fabric manufacturer over 35 years of experience. Over these years, we continue to our production by following the latest innovations on the fashion and techonological developements. Our main vision is to give our customers fast and quality production according to their exact requests. In our compay, we are able to produce fabrics like; Single jersey, Double jersey, Jacquards, Ribs, Interlock, Elec. Jacquards,Pique. The key fibres used are; viscose, cotton, polyamide, polyester, linen and spandex with also of branded yarns like lycra, modal, tencel, lyocell, and organic cottons.As a company, it is our goal for the new season to continue working with sustainable fibers and their blends, as well as jacquard and interlock knitting.
VICTOR TÊXTEIS
Victor Têxteis is a trademark of Pinto Nogueira Lda, a family company operating in the national textile sector, certified by Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX® and GRS-Global Recycled Standard®. They have over 29 years of experience and are based in Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal. Their core business is production and supply of sustainable textile solutions, mostly produced in Portugal, in order to create articles such as swimwear and sportswear (Mesh, Polyamide, Polyester). They have a great concern with sustainability, and they have a selection of high quality environmentally friendly fabrics.
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SUNDAG
Autumn/winter time is time for wool. Wool in many weights, knitting techniques and creative interpretations. Boiled wool 100% wool, uni or printed, boiled wool 80% wool + 20% cotton in plain and colourful jacquards also with relief and tops, wool plush, wool fleece, wool knits, wool jerseys conventional, controlled organic animal husbandry and GOTS. Heavy wool-cotton jacquard knits Cotton teddy uni and as jacquards with wool – more wool is not possible!
TARGET SRL
New capsule collection: luxury knitwear for timeless pieces. In a period of growing resource scarcity Target meets consumers’ desire to invest into long lasting and timeless pieces. Adding another line to its collection of Raschel qualities with sustainable fibers, new tonal and classical qualities in cashmere, silk and virgin wool will be launched in the current winter collection.
TEKSTINA
Bonding is the main theme of Tekstina’s Winter 2024-25 collection. In today’s world we all need a certain connection, whether with nature, each other or our heritage. Taking care of ourselves, people that surround us and nevertheless our planet is key to wellbeing of humankind. Our ideas are presented through stories: Games, Botanical, Scandinavian winter, Art/Craft/Heritage, Nostalgic, Abstract & Mystical.
TROFICOLOR
The new AW 24/25 collection of Troficolor presents a wide selection of different articles, developed with raw materials and production processes that respect the environment. They expanded their offer for denim and fabrics with BCI cotton, organic cotton with GOTS / OCS certification, recycled cotton and polyester with GRS / RCS certification. Highlights are Flannels with different patterns, Corduroy with different wales widths, Quilted Fabrics in different designs and their Velvet Denim concept, denim ready-to-wear with a velvet touch and wool look.
VERHEES TEXTILES
Verhees Textiles is a leading fabric importer with self-developed and exclusive collections, for textile sales and the garment sector. Every season they offer an extensive fashion collection consisting of over 500 new items. These are always based on the latest prints and colours, the most modern designs in the most diverse materials. Take a look at their online shop to discover the complete assortment.
VISBATEX
Visbatex is all about innovative, sustainable and multifunctional textiles made using bamboo viscose. The fabrics are comfortable to wear, environmentally friendly, breathable, skin-friendly, antibacterial and durable. All compositions contain at least 50 % bamboo viscose and are available in different blends. Visbatex is a pioneering company that brings together the opportunities presented by nature with wisdom from science and research. Performance by nature!
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PONTEX
Since 1972 Pontex presents collections that combine elegance and performance by proposing fabrics for unique garments that last forever. Among the main season’s novelties are velvets proposed with the new crushed finishing too, as piece-dyed version for an elegant look with an innovative aspect. Furthermore, you find velvets with a bicolour effect obtained thanks to the application of resins on garment-dyed pieces. Cupro is the eco-friendly fabric chosen for this season by the brand Made in Italy: light, fresh and breathable and, most of all, sustainable, biodegradable and 100% recyclable.
PRINTSTORMING new graphic books
Our A/W 24-25 colour palette relies heavily on energetic hues such as pink flash, cyber lime and electric jade in combination with black, and takes an almost surreal direction in conjunction with “old familiar” lovely motifs. Are you currently looking for support in taking your designs from 2D to 3D, or are you looking for fresh design input for your moodboards? Feel free to come by, we will show you what possibilities we have for you.
PROJECT SRL
Quality, sustainability and innovation: our autumn.winter 24/25 creations combine traditional techniques with modern aesthetics. Project SRL blends fibers together creating soft and light color mixes to obtain delicate yet compact fabrics with textured and three dimensional surfaces. They utilized dyed threads such as mouliné, flamed and buttoned yarns to provide a fresh interpretation of classic pied de poule, check and cover fabrics.
SERIDE SRL
Sense of memories and traditions are shown in the “Suspended moment” theme (dull yellow, blue ruined and corroded by sand). Nature symbolism preservation is described in their second theme “Re-Born” characterized by nature’s lush greens and warm shades of pinks. Different shades of deep blue and contrasting accents are part of the third theme “In the darkness” and synthetics pinks, fake platinum blondes and plastic silver delineate the last “It’s Fantastic” theme.
SEIDRA TEXTILWERKE
In the new winter collection from Seidra, classic bindings, through multicolored chains, become colorful eye-catchers. To ensure a good combination possibility, they partly offer up to 20 colour variants per article. In addition to the usual high-quality pure wool articles, they also offer attractively priced alternatives. In knitwear they have modern and traditional patterns as well as NOOS articles availabl
SERIKO GROUP
Seriko Group was established in 2010 after 29 years of experience in textile business. They provide woven fabrics with compositions deriving from filament viscose, staple viscose, cotton, linen, acetate, modal, tencel, polyester and their blends. Sustainability is at the heart of their fabric developments like organic, recycled and sustainable compositions that are available. They work with some of Turkey’s leading dyeing and printing factories to achieve the best results on woven fabric qualities.
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The Fabric Trends Autumn.Winter 24/25 - Part V
Fabrics Highlights for Autumn.Winter 24/25 - Part V
In the FABRICS Area, around 600 international suppliers present their material innovations for all apparel segments. The complete product portfolio of fashionable woven and knitted fabrics made of wool, cotton, silk, blends and functional fibres is represented here. For the Autumn.Winter 24/25 season, we present some highlights from international producers in our FABRICS blogposts:
MYSIA FABRIC
Mysia Fabric produces with innovative materials for a greener future. Their production facility offers all brands and designers answers to sustainable and fast deadlines demands. With its designers who closely follow the world fashion trends, it creates two main and two intermediate collections per year and prepares special collections according to customer demand.
NOOTEBOOM TEXTILES
Nooteboom Textiles’ winter collection contains a wide range of knitted and woven fabrics. Highlights are stretch leather, lurex chanel and wool bouclé mélange. Nooteboom also offers a strong selection in chiffon lurex prints, ponti di roma prints, viscose prints and denim prints which can be combined with several plain dyed basics.
ÖZDOKU
Founded in 1970, Özdoku is one of the leading fabric producers in their sector which always gives priority to quality, best service and sustainability. With the new 24/25 AW collection, Özdoku aims to continue eco-friendly production & sustainability and offers a wide range of woven, jacquard and jersey collections by referring to new fashion trends. Their line is dedicated for Women’s, Men’s and Kids wear for Pants, Jacket,Skirts, Dress, Suiting, and many more.
ÖZTEK
ÖZTEK, TURKEY addresses the need for functional but versatile garments. New mobility and all-purpose functional items which are breathable, durable, yet fashionable are key wardrobe drivers. Using sustainable materials to create adaptable pieces to extend garment life span and longevity, Öztek’s new line of functional fabrics combines an authentic fashion approach with core usability – also for bonded articles.
POLYTEX STOFFEN
Focusing on sustainability, their latest fabric innovation for the autumn/winter collection 24/25 season introduces pineapple-derived material. Other bestsellers remain modal, viscose and bamboo. The collection showcases fascinating colours such as ‘Dazzling Blue’, ‘Harvest Pumpkin’, ‘Tomato’ , ‘Viva Magenta’ and ‘Amethyst Orchid’. Abstract designs and blurry prints remain on trend and reflect the modern aesthetic of the collection.
PONGEES
Silk specialists Pongees has added more colour options to its top selling qualities, such as marocain, taffeta, georgette, sand washed spun silk and stretch satin, and will be launching new shades of pastels and deeper tones at the show. Some collections are now available in more than 100 colours. Minimum order is 1 metre and fabrics are held in stock at its UK warehouse so delivery is fast. Pongees has set up a specialist delivery service so European customers with a VAT/EORI number will be able to receive their orders free of any additional import charges – just as they did pre-Brexit.
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The Linen Project by Crafts Council Nederland
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Flax was traditionally grown as a crop in the Netherlands, and Dutch linen was one of the most sought-after for a long time because of its good quality. Today that is no longer the case. Therefore, in 2018, Crafts Council Nederland, in cooperation with the Fashion Design Master of ArtEZ University, initiated ‘The Linen Project’ to revive the economic viability of local flax cultivation and linen production in the Netherlands, while transforming it in a sustainable way.
The Linen Project aims to change and challenge thinking in a multidisciplinary way across fields and sectors – agriculture, history, heritage, (landscape)
architecture, fashion, food, crafts, design, contemporary art, economics, innovative business. After all, the whole world is changing. On the one hand, people are more digitally connected to each other than ever before. But at the same time, there is a growing interest in connecting to the products we use and consume every day and how they are made. How and where are our roots? How can we reconnect with deep human values and ancient knowledge and skills? The Linen Project explores the tradition of linen production in the Netherlands and drives the exchange of different values, knowledge, skills and competences across industry boundaries.
Learning by doing is the motto of the project: prototypes of new economic, social and cultural ecosystems are created in a dynamic environment, demonstrating the vital importance of (biological) diversity. The production process involves only four steps – the flax from 2019, for example, was grown on the Lingehof near Arnhem (NL), mechanically processed by Van de Bilt Zaden en Vlas in Sluiskil (NL), spun in Poland and woven into linen by Enschede Textielstad in Enschede (NL). In the process, “old” knowledge meets new technologies, so that future production is based on and builds on a restored connection between people and nature.
“The Linen Project is our collaborative effort to understand the making of local textiles and experience the beauty of it. This is a shared journey where we, learning by doing, rediscover our relationship with nature and each other.”
WILLEMIEN IPPEL, CO-FOUNDER CRAFTS COUNCIL NEDERLAND
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Local and recycled: Enschede Textielstad was founded in 2013 by Annemieke Koster to create responsibly produced fabrics from recycled yarns and local raw materials such as flax, hemp and wool for apparel and interior textiles. To keep the supply chain as short and regional as possible, one of the main focuses of the concept is to develop smart and circular uses of waste streams and local resources – for example, Dutch wool. Its quality is not good enough to make clothes from, and to date there has been no viable business model in sight for this resource – so it has been burned. However, what is not good enough for clothing may be absolutely sufficient for other purposes, so Enschede Textielstad now weaves fabrics from the wool that are ideal for upholstered furniture.
The same applies to linen – there have been no projects with economic viability in the Netherlands to date. To change this, The Linen Project was founded in 2019 as an initiative of Crafts Council Nederland and ArtEZ University of Fine Arts (see feature in also this Sustainable Innovations issue). In 2020, the two projects began a collaboration based on division of labor, with Enschede Textielstad acting as a weaving mill for flax cultivated in the Netherlands.
“We are bridging the gap between mass production and laboratory scale testing. We do so with a focus on sustainable, local and social production on the most innovative machine the industry has to offer. With our investment and expertise we help the industry move forward by testing new materials in early stages of development.”
ANNEMIEKE KOSTER, FOUNDER ENSCHEDE TEXTIELSTAD
This collaboration is accompanied by a new cooperative business model: instead of simply selling the fabric by the meter to customers, a subscription model was designed for The Linen Project. Customers become part of the supply chain and share responsibility for the process of harvesting, weaving and finishing. The fabrics are then sold as “lots”, with all the imperfections as these are part of the subscription.
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