Innovation
PRINTS: making statements through Fabrics is more than possible
Fabrics Spring.Summer 23 #5
Although MUNICH FABRIC START and BLUEZONE couldn’t be realised physically in the end of January, we want to give our beloved exhibitors and long-term partners the chance to present their collections for Spring.Summer 23 online. We are presenting the most inspiring developments, prints and innovations in all our areas: FABRICS, ADDITIONALS, BLUEZONE, DESIGN STUDIOS, SOURCING & KEYHOUSE.
Prints can be so unique they can even make a statement. This is exactly why they make such a great tool for designers. Energetic and inspiring prints steal the spotlight of SS23 trends – 6dias, Innotex, Manifattura Foderami Cimmino SRL, Printstorming New Graphic Books, Seride SRL present their newest developments.
6dias
The Spring.Summer 23 collection of 6DIAS is divided in 3 themes: RETRO RESORT, GARDEN PARTY & NEO BOHEME. Enjoy new fabrics with fresh colors (like Lime, Mint and Brown), trendy prints and creative weavings. The fabric trading company highlights summer linens, poplins, viscoses, as well as sustainable fabrics, like organic and BCI cottons, recycled polyesters, Ecovero and Lenzing fabrics. The structures range from tafetta, twill, crepe and poplin to voile, chambray, chiffon and mousseline, while the products range from printings, weaving and jacquard to embroidery, laces, pleats and quilts.
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InnoTex Merkel & Rau
Innotex relies on versatility for Spring.Summer 23. Modern trend themes such as Summer of Love and Joyful Expression set highlights with eye-catching, bold designs. Fresh colors form the appetite for carefree, warm summer days and long nights. At the same time, timeless themes such as Taken Back Impressions with a reduced color palette and shapes reflect a long-lasting, elegant zeitgeist. An extra program for trouser specialists is also available this summer.
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Manifattura Foderami Cimmino SRL
Cimmino offers the widest range of fabrics covering all sectors in order to meet the different needs. From classical fabrics to manufacture garments such as dresses and outerwear to contemporary and streetwear fabrics. Always attentive to the novelties, this year the fabric specialist also offers the KOREA collection, who take inspiration from the TV series Squid Game, as well as the Gobelin Contemporary’s collection.
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Printstorming New Graphic Books
In the latest PRINTSTORMING collection, nautical themes are highlighted, with structures such as scales and shimmering water being imitated – as well as beach-inspired prints with shell, starfish and ocean motifs. Prints with jungle leaves and plants combined with large letter applications are ideal for beach shirts and dresses.
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Seride SRL
This season’s moodboard includes sophisticated and soft pastel tones, bright and fresh herbal greens and summery watercolours as well as deep navy, dark orange and red shades. Seride’s goal? Making the collection fully sustainable through recycled and organic materials.
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Discover more Spring.Summer 23 developments from the Fabrics manufacturers in the following blog articles:
Fabrics: The all-time Classics with a focus on respect towards nature
Summer’s best: FABRICS in pastel colours for Spring.Summer 23
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BLUEZONE: The urban jungle vibes
BLUEZONE Spring.Summer 23 #3
Although MUNICH FABRIC START and BLUEZONE couldn’t be realised physically in the end of January, we want to give our beloved exhibitors and long-term partners the chance to present their collections for Spring.Summer 23 online. We are presenting the most inspiring developments, prints and innovations in all our areas: FABRICS, ADDITIONALS, BLUEZONE, DESIGN STUDIOS, SOURCING & KEYHOUSE.
Our BLUEZONE experts ADA DENIM, Bregla Denim, Denim House, Denim Team and Dera Giyim present high-quality SS23 collections, that will bring sustainability into a fast paced city-life.
ADA DENIM
ADA Denim presents four core themes: Active Angles, a creative approach to casual wear through multipurpose fabrics that can easily shift between different environments and needs. Core Guides, tech-enhanced structures that encourage an innovative approach to versatile outdoor wear. Light Souls, that offer blended qualities which enable fluid shapes, mood-boosting weaves and purposeful designs. As well as Urban Visions that deliver an array of smart-casual looks that refreshes classic silhouettes.
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Bregla Denim
Bregla Denim introduces “The New Modern” concept, a sophisticated collection based on a circular approach with the features of soft feeling and easy-comfort city vibe. The collection includes key elements in between 5oz – 13,5oz, onesize super stretch, 80’s Vintage, Dobby and Undyed fabrics made with sustainable cellulosic fibers such as Lyocell, Hemp and Organic Cotton.
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Denim House by Sartex Group
Denim House by Sartex Group is among the leaders in Sportswear and Jeanswear products : bottoms, garments, chino, cargo, jackets and overalls.
Their new Spring.Summer23 colelction, reflects a large use of sustainable fabrics in composition and materials, washed with the latest technologies of lazer, Ozone, certified chemicals and the minimum use of Water and energy.
With the come back to the 90 ‘s, they highlighted the return to denim roots: with comfortable, rigid and slobby construction, more straight and regular styles, it reflects also a wide range of RFD Materials that has been treated in the smartest dye processes. All of that combined with different kind of embroidery and print effects of sublimation, lamination and foils.
Most of this collection has been constructed with entirely digital process from the choice of the materials, designs and washes. It was created virtually first, and then produced physically.
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Denim Team
For Spring.Summer 23, Denim Team has mostly focused on climate change and mother nature. The fabric selections include sustainable yarns such as organic cotton, linen, hemp, lyocell etc. Additionally, sustainable washing and dying processes have been developed while being inspired by the new trends regarding shapes and styles.
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Dera Giyim
DERA GİYİM, which was established in Izmir in 2013, is an international textile company focused on trousers, shorts, denim and skirts for men and women. With its innovative approach, Dera Giyim continues to focus on the vision of quality production and timely delivery in the domestic and foreign markets. Therefore, the latest technologies are used as automation and special machines.
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Discover more Spring.Summer 23 developments from the BLUEZONE manufacturers in the following blog articles:
BLUEZONE manufacturers convince with the latest finishing solutions
BLUEZONE’s denim trends bring back memories of 90s parties
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Sporty, fresh, playful and sustainable: The newest Additionals developments are just that
Additionals Spring.Summer 23 #4
Although MUNICH FABRIC START and BLUEZONE couldn’t be realised physically in the end of January, we want to give our beloved exhibitors and long-term partners the chance to present their collections for Spring.Summer 23 online. We are presenting the most inspiring developments, prints and innovations in all our areas: FABRICS, ADDITIONALS, BLUEZONE, DESIGN STUDIOS, SOURCING & KEYHOUSE.
The zippers, buttons, materials & Co. of the Spring.Summer 23 season are sporty, fresh, playful and sustainable. The newest developments of BODO JAGDBERG, Knopf Schäfer GmbH, MT – ND, QST Europe and Unizip combine functionality with extravagance, tradition and innovation and the best quality with new technologies.
BODO JAGDBERG
BODO JAGDBERG is putting more emphasis on functionality this season as well as opulence and extravagance. The themes Flex-Leisure, Monochrome and All Day Active are manifested in both Mens and Womenswear ranges. Sporty elegant colors such as aqua glass, digital lavender and cashmere are becoming an absolute eye catcher. Real styling boosters such as Holographic and cosmic paper will set new standards.
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Knopf Schäfer GmbH
Knopf Schäfer explored three summer themes: Hybrid Smartness – Tailoring remains top but casual and smart. Adventure Resort – Sporty aesthetics play with artisanal details. Active Performance – Functionality meets urban lifestyle. Matching buttons and accessories have been developed for all themes, with special highlights in shape, colour and finish. According to the importance of sustainability, the button expert is showing a comprehensive real corozo collection.
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MT - ND
In a play of luminous facets, enveloping roundness and different fascinating tactility, each MT Fashion Factory accessory in the Spring.Summer 23 collection expresses the harmony of a unique style in balance between tradition and innovation. A short circuit of shapes, colors and materials that stimulated the imagination and expresses all the pleasure of making fashion.
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QST Europe
QST Europe continues to focus on sustainability by offering a wide range of products made from recycled polyester, BCI and organic cotton. As well as the origin of the materials, the main focus is on quality and technologies. The performance knit alliance made of 100% Recycled Polyester offers both: it is engineered for mobility, moisture wicking properties and softness to the skin. Its light weight and flexible which makes it perfect for waistbands, pocketing and lining for active wear shorts, joggers, jackets and hoodies.
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Unizip
Unizip’s new collection shows the creative process from a sustainable perspective while keeping the connection to new summer trends for Spring.Summer 23. The zipper specialist’s aim is to create recycled zippers but also standard ones, playing with colors and new shapes. The offer ranges from basic zippers to new ideas which allow all customers to make their own customization. Innovation is the key.
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Discover more Spring.Summer 23 developments from the ADDITIONALS manufacturers in the following blog articles:
This season’s sustainable buttons, zippers & Co. are colourful & trendy
ADDITIONALS Spring.Summer 23: certified bio materials meet the latest styles
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Release of the new CLO version 6.0
CLO 6.0: the 3D design process of the future
Our KEYHOUSE stands for innovation, trend development and digital pioneering. CLO Virtual Fashion was one of the futuristic exhibitors that presented their revolutionary developments in KEYHOUSE last February: the 3D visualisation of clothing.
CLO Virtual Fashion is a leading global provider of 3D simulation technologies for the clothing sector. The company looks back on over ten years of experience in research and development in the field of clothing simulation and sees its technology not only as a tool for developing virtual garments, but also as a platform to provide valuable data about clothing, designs and trends with the help of garment visualisations. CLO Virtual Fashion is an international company with offices in New York, Munich, Seoul, Shanghai, Hong Kong and Bangalore.
Release of the new version 6.0
What we are particularly proud of: The innovative strength of our KEYHOUSE exhibitors cannot be stunted even by the challenges of a pandemic. We are therefore pleased to introduce you to the latest version 6.0 of CLO:
With the release of version 6.0, CLO has made the 3D design process faster, more accurate, more user friendly, more efficient and more seamless. With 6.0, CLO offers an incomparable solution for integrating a seamless digital end-to-end workflow. With the new cutting-edge features, designers can create virtual garments like never before.
One of the most revolutionary features of this version is Auto Sewing – which is exclusively available at CLO 6.0. This enables users to automatically sew their garments with just one click, which further shortens lead times. Other innovative new functions are also: Automatic Grading, whereby the cutting patterns can be adjusted based on the body shape and not just using the parametric size table. Grading Review enables users to check sizes at a glance. Pattern nesting minimizes fabric consumption for more efficient production and PBR format, which enables highly realistic fabric visualisation.
Key Features of CLO 6.0
- Grading Review:Compare garment and/or avatar grading in a single window.
- Auto Sewing: Patterns are automatically sewn based on their placement on avatars.
- Texture Editor:Express complex graphics by overlaying multiple images. When images repeat, create seamless graphics by editing their outlines while referring to the preview.
- Print on Fabric: Print various patterns on fabric.
- Render | Subsurface Scattering Material: Realistically express human skin. Subsurface scattering material penetrates and scatters under the objects’ surface. Utilise the material to illustrate leaves, fruit, candles and more.
- Automatic Rigging & Converter: Add joints or convert user data to CLO avatars and use CLO Avatar Editor.
- Schematic Rendering Style for Tech Pack: Render 3D garments into technical drawings for Tech Pack.
- UV Editor Mode:Create UV maps of patterns, buttons and zippers as well as create normal, rough and metallic alpha maps.
3 new integration partners for CLO 6.0
Besides the updates of the key features, CLO 6.0 also convinces thanks to three new integration partners: Jeanologia, Substance and ColorDigital.
CLO Virtual Fashion has partnered with Substance by Adobe, tool to creat 3D textures, Jeanologia, the Spain based company specialising in finishing technology solutions for denim and ColorDigital, pioneer in uniform and efficient colour and surface communication, for the release of CLO 6.0. These exciting integrations allow brands and designers to achieve a desired and flawless workflow by optimizing the entire 3D design process from start to finish and enabling them to create sustainable digital designs that are an exact 1:1 representation of the physical end product.
“By providing practical and seamless workflows with Substance by Adobe, Jeanologia and ColorDigital, CLO users can now extend their design continuity to its fullest with their much loved applications. We are thrilled to work with accredited partners to bring augmented value to our users.”
Simon Kim, CEO of CLO Virtual Fashion
Jeanologia makes it possible to import washing files of the eDesigner
Import various types of washing libraries and JEAN files and apply them to garments as graphics. JEAN files are from the eDesigner application by Jeanologia which provides a laser washing solution.
“Today more than ever we need to implement digitisation in our industry. Design, digital collection and 3D virtual reality are going to be key to recovery. With the integration of eDesigner and CLO, we are able to make the dreams of designers a reality by connecting designers with wash developers and brands with manufacturers. It will be a complete transformation in the jeans industry.”
Josep Maria Carbonell, Software Developer Director Jeanologia
Create fully customisable materials with Substance by Adobe & X-Rite AXF
Import SBSAR files by Substance, the leading software solution for 3D digital materials, allowing you to download luxury materials with infinite texture variations or create fully customisble materials from scratch or via a scan, with complete authoritative control. In addition, import AxF files by X-Rite, a tool that generates realistic fabrics via various maps extracted from 3D fabric scanning.
“We are excited to collaborate with CLO and empower designers to push the fashion industry forward with 3D technology that expands the definition of what’s possible. The Substance integration unlocks the ability to iterate on materials instantly, present photorealistic designs, and discard unwanted prototypes without any waste. CLO designers are guaranteed an unprecedented level of control and realism and we are eager to see what they will create.”
Francois Cottin, Director of 3D & AR Marketing, Adobe
Use materials and colours of ColorDigital
Simply click and drag materials or colours from Color Digital’s DMIx cloud, and apply them to CLO’s garments.DMIx Cloud manages different forms of digitised materials, accessories and colours.
“With this partnership we enable the 3D Artist to use the libraries by their suppliers with a simple drag and drop of the material from the DMIx Cloud© directly on to their creations. This being done while keeping the full DMIx© quality in terms of color and PBR Standard based material. This enables a holistic approach of digital product development between brands and vendors on a common standard including master data, by using the most advanced raw material and trims solution in conjunction with the leading 3D garment technology.”
Gerd Willschütz, COO, ColorDigital
Be curious about the innovations that will be presented at our upcoming shows!
It Has Never Been Easier to Find Matching Pantone Colours
Unlimited access to the entire Pantone colour spectrum
- with Pantone Connect
Colours are one of the most important parameters in trend analysis and the design of new collections. The right shade often only differs in nuances within the colour palette to achieve the desired colour harmony for the collection. Nowadays, we find inspiration for colours everywhere in our live: whether in nature, the food industry, interior design or beauty products.
In order to allow these colours to flow into the design process, our long-standing partner Pantone is especially addressing designers with its latest development: A platform with Pantone color libraries, color values and powerful navigation functions – always available wherever you are working with colors. The new digital color platform Pantone Connect simplifies your work and workflow by giving you access to all Pantone colors through a single-user account at any time across mobile, web, and the Adobe® Creative Cloud® applications.
“Our company has worked closely alongside creatives in the graphic, fashion, and product design industries to understand how color can become an enabler of performance rather than a hindrance. Pantone Connect’s unique combination of technology (enabled by X-Rite), features, and platform accessibility will give designers the tools they need to be confident in their color choices and ultimately successful with their creative work. They win with the Pantone Connect platform because their color choice reflects an informed decision made efficiently and communicated effectively.”
Adrián Fernández, Vice President and General Manager, Pantone
The Pantone Color Match Card
In addition to the App Pantone Connect, the new platform also includes the revolutionary Pantone Color Match Card, an innovative target in credit card size.
The Pantone Color Match Card works with your phone’s camera to measure and match coloured objects, materials, and surfaces to a Pantone Colour. With the size and portability of a credit card, this unique solution makes matching an inspirational colour to Pantone as easy as taking a photo – at accuracy levels approaching more expensive colour-reading devices. Use the Color Match Card with the Pantone Connect mobile app to capture a colour, search for a best match, and save your chosen Pantone Colour to a palette for designing later in the Pantone Connect Extension for Adobe Creative Cloud.
Together with the Pantone Connect app, you can measure the color of objects, materials and surfaces and match them with Pantone colors. Simple, portable and more accurate than color extraction from images.
Merging physical color with a digital workflow through an innovative approach, this Card-App pairing makes Pantone color identification and communication from physical inspiration to final design a streamlined, accurate, and affordable option for large dispersed design teams and freelancers alike.
“With the Color Match Card and Pantone Connect app, a designer’s phone has now become a legitimate color capture device to match the physical world more accurately to Pantone Colors, as well as a workflow productivity tool to shorten the color communication process, at a nominal cost.”
Nick Bazarian, Senior Product Manager, Pantone Digital Solutions
With Pantone Connect, you can streamline color selection, color communication and the design process. For example, you can match physical color samples with Pantone colors, create and arrange palettes for design projects or apply Pantone colors to design files. The result is greater accuracy and less time or rework.
The software easily converts eye dropper, Hex, RGB, CMYK, and L*a*b* values to the nearest Pantone Color, meaning for fashion designers they can rapidly turn digital colour inspiration into the reality of ready-for-production.
For more information on Pantone Connect and how to create a new account, visit www.pantone.com/connect. Mobile apps for iOS and Android can be downloaded from the Apple App Store and Google Play Store, respectively, while the Pantone Connect Extension for Adobe® Creative Cloud® can be downloaded from the Adobe Creative Cloud Exchange website.
OPENING TIMES
2. MARCH 2021 · 9:30 – 18:30
3. MARCH 2021 · 9:30 – 18:30
4. MARCH 2021 · 9:30 – 16:00
LOCATION
MOC Munich | Halls 1 – 4 Groundfloor
Lilienthalallee 40
Germany, 80939, Munich
KEYHOUSE – A Strong Network of Creative Minds
Progress and new levels of sustainability. Combining hand-made and digitalisation. The future of the textile and fashion industry is complex and challenging. The demand for greater transparency and information, for innovative solutions, new mindsets and forms of production is all the more loud and urgent.
KEYHOUSE, as the think tank of MUNICH FABRIC START, offers concrete approaches towards a visionary textile and fashion industry, providing answers, inviting discussions and interaction, showcasing new directions and definitions of innovation. In this way, an inspiring network of unique partnerships and collaborations with ambitious projects has been established.
At KEYHOUSE, everything revolves around innovation – be it the luminous jacket from MUSGO TECH, 3D printing and 3D knitting from Cocccon, the solution for a digitally networked supply chain from Lectra, or the Nebudye dyeing process using the Officina +39 nebulization system. Numerous innovative suppliers will showcase their trend defining developments for the first time at KEYHOUSE, including CLO Virtual Fashion with 3D visualisation of garments, Circular Fashion with workshops and software tools for innovative recycling management, and Recover providing accurate colour in upcycled yarns.
“Fashion must take a holistic hybrid approach in order to establish sustainable innovations in the apparel industry as a permanent feature.
These sustainability initiatives can be implemented by integrating new technologies with a high degree of design, disruption and integration.”
Muchaneta Kapfunde, Founding Editor-in-Chief FashNerd.com
HIGHLIGHTS AT KEYHOUSE
THE NUTURE ROOM WITH PAULINE VAN DONGEN. With “The Nurture Room“, Pauline van Dongen creates a space for meeting and inviting exchange among like-minded people who share the desire to redefine the fashion industry. The organised shared research sessions on topics such as workwear, outdoor clothing or casual wear etc. are led by fashion tech experts and show how technology can be sensibly embedded in clothing. Workshops will inspire participants to expand their know-how and connect companies along the entire value chain so that they can follow up with concrete action. Please find an overview of all workshops sessions here.
Due to the limited number of participants in the free workshops, we kindly ask you to register by sending an email to Chantal Gräff at cgr@munichfabricstart.com.
RE-FREAM PROJECT BY CARMINA FERRI. With her project Re-FREAM, Carmina Ferri, founder and CEO of Care Applications, wants to bring together designers and researchers to jointly develop innovative fashion concepts. Designers are invited to submit their proposals for ‘3D Manufacturing’, ‘Electronic & Textiles’ and ‘From Linear to Sustainable Circular Systems’. The winning innovative art concepts will then be developed in the three corresponding research centres.
The SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS Forum combines poetry and problem solving. It will showcase inspiring developments and establish new perspectives on the world of textiles: from extraordinary innovations, new material resources and the combination of the traditional and modern to captivating and thought provoking installations. Discover the following innovations:
- Karin Vlug und Bas Froon see the future of fashion in regional fashion production that is made to measure, on request and using digital technologies.
- CONSUMPTION OF HERITAGE. Sun Lee questions the values of consumers and producers and thus those of the conventional fashion system.
- PRINTING WITH LIGHT. Madeleine Marquardt combines new technologies with Cynatopie, one of the first photographic printing processes, thus opening up new possibilities for modern textile design.
- SEAMLINE PROJECT. Gu Qiong emphasizes the object character of clothing by highlighting seams in brightly coloured yarns.
- SISAL, MORE THAN A ROPE. Isabella Monaco uses sisal for clothing and is experimenting with hydrogen peroxide and sodium carbonate to make the natural fibre softer while maintaining its robustness.
- RINSE OFF. Caterina Tioli uses the properties of potato starch to stabilize unspun wool for processing.
- CT DAIRY. Gal Yakobvitch develops a water-repellent coating for textiles based from milk protein. The result is a sustainable unisex workwear made of vegetable-dyed second-hand T-shirts.
- FOREIGN FORAGING. Jeanette Lili Weiss poetically addresses the complex problem of scarcity and abundance in times of climate change.
“Our goal is to take a look at the possible future with these 8 selected Sustainable Innovations, so that the industry and its professionals can reach the next level. It is an ongoing dialogue. We are a community that is growing and connecting, sharing visions and ideas – it’s a very inspiring atmosphere”.
Simon Angel, Curator Sustainable Innovations MUNICH FABRIC START
KEYNOTES & SEMINARS
KEYHOUSE also offers a comprehensive and exclusive event programme. This includes trend seminars, exclusive workshops, keynotes and round tables. You can find the complete event program here.
Exklusive Trend Seminar by Li Edelkoort – Tuesday, 4 Feb 2020, 4pm – 6.30pm
Arguably the most famous trend forecaster of our time holds an exclusive trend seminar. In an impressive presentation, GREEN WAVE – the Fashion Trends for Spring.Summer 21, as GREEN BOOK – the Recreationwear Trends for Spring.Summer 21, as well as STILLNESS – a Full Colour Forecast for Autumn.Winter 21/22.
David Shah about „The 10 Design Pillars” – Tuesday, 4 Feb 2020, 10.30am – 12pm
The trend forecaster and publisher of Textile View will deliver the keynote “The 10 Design Pillars”. David Shah presents new perspectives on design influences from Slowbilisation to Hopepunk, from Biophilia to Datascapes.
„Fashion Activism” Panel by Muchaneta Kapfunde – Wednesday, 5 Feb 2020, 11am – 12pm
FashNerd founder Muchaneta Kapfunde brings together the experts Kresse Wesling, Styliani Parascha, Marta Waydel and Marina Toeters as part of the panel discussion “Fashion Activism: Creating the Fashion of the Future.”
“United Nations SDG’s Agenda 2030: Challenges & Opportunities for the textile industry” – Wednesday, 05 Feb 2020, 1pm – 2pm
In 2015, the UNGC formulated 17 goals for the sustainable development of our planet and on this basis the “Agenda 2030” of the United Nations was created. Daniel Pinto, Business Director of Scoop, will refer in his presentation to the challenges and opportunities for the textile industry and explain how existing technologies and innovations in the industry can be used to achieve the set goals.
„How automation will change the fashion industry” – Wednesday, 5 Feb 2020, 2pm – 3pm
Five experts in technology, David Schmelzeisen, Ralf Schneider, Dr. Thomas Fischer, Jon Zornow and Sabine Kühnl will discuss “Don’t be afraid of robots – how automation will change the fashion industry” in a panel discussion. Automation, digitalisation and localisation are the trends that are reshaping the global fashion market. Is the fashion industry ready to adapt to new standards? What consequences does this have for the current procurement structure, also in terms of social responsibility?
“The data behind today’s winning marketing strategies” – Wednesday, 5 Feb 2020, 5pm – 6pm
Gina Gulberti, VP Digital Marketing at Launchmetrics, explains in her keynote “The data behind today’s winning marketing strategies”.
All dates and the complete lecture programme can be found here.
MUNICH FABRIC START & KEYHOUSE & SOURCING
04 February 2020 | 9.30am – 6.30pm
05 February 2020 | 9.30am – 6.30pm
06 February 2020 | 9.30am – 4.00pm
BLUEZONE
04 February 2020 | 9.30am – 6.30pm
05 February 2020 | 9.30am – 6.30pm
Interview with Simon Angel, Curator of SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS
Simon Angel has been the curator of the Sustainable Innovations Area in the KEYHOUSE since 2018. For the Munich Fabric Start fair, he is looking for exciting young designers, extraordinary innovations and new perspectives from the textile world. Register now to attend Sustainable Innovations at KEYHOUSE.
Simon, what Sustainable Innovations can we look forward to this season?
Each season, we try to present textile tendencies and new materials to inspire and broaden the context, techniques, meaning and value of textile related topics. Our goal is to show a glimpse of a possible future, so the industry and its professionals can use it to get to the next level. It is a constant dialogue. We are a community, growing and connecting together, sharing visions and ideas – it’s an inspiring atmosphere.
This edition of Munich Fabric Start’s Sustainable Innovations is a prime example to this approach – not only in respect to the responsibility held as a textile fair but also from the attitude and perspectives of the designer’s present. You see their visions in sound-created and laser print work. You feel their ideas in the provocative perspective that plastic is part of our natural landscape. And in the concept that ditching seams can lead to new manufacturing techniques and design approaches. But also, in revaluing materials like sisal and paper and the use of core natural elements like milk, starch and salt-crystals. I am positive that these projects will start a dialogue we can all learn from.
Again and again, the fear of the future, the consequences of environmental pollution and climate change emerge in the curated works. Challenge or opportunity, what do you think?
Your question shows that we are all still at very different stages in the process. Some people are aware and concerned about the transformations our environment is facing. Some are becoming aware of the changes and starting to value what still is. Others are reacting with action, ready to change the game. Specifically that we all have different point of views – with even more concerns to consider. So, there is not one dialogue, there are hundreds. There is not one solution, there is – as I refer to it – a chain of change happening on all levels. Therefore, I there is no “or” in between, instead it is an “and”: We have challenges AND opportunities. All of the designers offer opportunities through different approaches and create change, as challenging as it is.
The use of potato starch, old printing methods and traditional Korean craftsmanship – one could almost say that “back to the roots” is the motto of the upcoming season. Posing the question, where does this development come from?
As designers are digging deeper, they often rediscover historic production processes and design principles, that make sense in the now as well. “We learn from history that we never learn from history”, a quote of a dear friend of mine. Now I learn that there are two meanings to this. The project of Caterina Tiolo is a good example for how changing the order of an old process can lead to totally new approaches – design and material wise. The development of redefining traditional processes and ingredients is really exciting. Or look at “Consumption of heritage” by Lee Sun: She uses traditional crafts and simple materials like paper in a modern fashion context and in that way values her heritage. So yes, if “back to the roots” to you means “revitalise tradition and values”, it is certainly a dominant development.
You are curating the Sustainable Innovations for the fifth time this season. What has changed?
From my perspective, it is not working on changes – we are working on this as a journey. I see many strong developments and tendencies and they are driven by dedicated professionals. Not only business and money-driven but instead also by values. I see that the industry is working on becoming a better version of itself. Feeling a glimpse of shared responsibility between designers, manufacturers, press and media, I am very optimistic. In the end it is all about the perfect couple: quality and consciousness.
2020 – a new decade begins. Looking to the future: how do you think the interplay of sustainability and textiles will develop?
As optimistic as I may sound – the more research I do in the field of textiles and fashion, it all comes down to our individual responsibilities: our behaviours as a human, existing as a consumer in this economic system. The causality of change has two central elements to start with: demand and supply. We have to stop putting ‘the good’ into a colonial and capitalistic context as from the early start of textile history to the fashion world of the now: The more we are aware and the more we share, together we can make this a great journey. Let’s take this chance and restore the enthusiasm to this economic world. Let’s thrive!
Visit Sustainable Innovations at KEYHOUSE on February 4-6 2020 in Munich.
Looking Back: 2019 Hightex Award Winners
The Hightex Award is an opportunity to recognise the most significant, innovative and resourceful developments selected among Munich Fabric Start and Bluezone exhibitors. As we prepare to showcase the novelties of 2020, let’s take a look through the 2019 winners of the 6th & 7th editions of Hightex Award.
January 29th – 31st 2019 Edition of Munich Fabric Start
1st Place
Becker Tuche from Aachen has been awarded for a new, super lightweight and highly functional product development consisting of a combination of wool and Cordura with spandex. Despite the low weight, the new fabric has a high abrasion resistance and a very high water vapour permeability. The new product is ideal for outdoor styles, streetwear and corporate fashion.
“I am very pleased with this Award. For more than a year now we at Becker Tuche have looked into mixing various clothing segments from fashion, sportswear/outdoor, Corporate Fashion and workwear. Against this background the Wool Performance series combines classic wovens in wool and wool blends with such functions as wind breaking and waterproofing well-known from sportswear. The result is an individually coordinated quality portfolio fit for many applications. In response to the strong interest we are currently developing other fabrics made of wool/Cordura with technical functions.”
Peter Recker, CEO Becker Tuche, Aachen
2nd Place
The second place was received by Soorty Enterprises for “Rain Shield”, an extremely light, recycled and water-repellent denim in Tencel/Nylon blend that impressed not only numerous features but also with its elegant look. The fast-drying, water-repellent, heat-insulating and form-resistant product also scored with a soft grip and subtle gloss finishing.
3rd Place
Mectex by Manifatture Italiane Scudieri came in third place with two Hyperlight 3Layer fabrics and the associated continuous development of innovations and functional materials. The Italian company always finds new ways and solutions to combine comfort and function perfectly and is known for its high-tech developments in the sportswear and outerwear segment. For example, heat-insulating, reflective and ultra-light qualities with water-repellent, bacteria-resistant and breathable graphene membrane that glow in darkness.
September 3rd – 5th 2019 Edition of Munich Fabric Start
1st Place
RDD TEXTILES from Portugal wins first place with a bonded double-sided jersey quality. Outstanding was the jury’s assessment of the development of this new bonding technique through an environmentally conscious mechanical process and newly developed without any additional adhesive. For the filling, 100% Tencel TM which uses an environmentally friendly fiber. According to RDD Textiles this excellent jersey quality, first introduced at MUNICH FABRIC START, is breathable, warming, comfortable, extremely lightweight and absolutely fashionable.
„We are very happy about this award, which we have now received for the second time. The award especially means a lot to us because this now award winning article is a real novelty. For the launch of this outstanding jersey quality, the HighTex Award is a welcomed marketing tool to publicize this novelty in the marketplace.“
Elsa Parente, RDD TEXTILES
2nd Place
Second place goes to M.T.T. SPA MANIFATTURA TESSILE TOSCANA from Italy for a wool quality with 14 percent polyamide content currently offered at a high fashion level. This is ensured by a graphic PU print in a technically aesthetic vinyl look. Abrasion and pilling are drastically minimized by this fashionable way of coating. Ideal for trend-setting womenswear with classic wool properties.
3rd Place
Third place goes to fabric specialist BRUGNOLI, also based in Italy, with a highly functional 3-layer technology. New is the use of bio-based polyamide. The elastic protective membrane is waterproof, windproof and breathable and therefore predestined for outdoor fashion. The first layer is made of extra fine merino wool and bio-based polyamides. The second layer offers a high degree of comfort and functional protection as an extra thin elastic membrane. With the third layer featuring extremely thin polyamides plus elastane. The result is a soft shell quality for jackets and pants that is already used by well-known Italian fashion and function brands.
Amidst the current restructuring of our industry and in order to meet innovation cycles and grant enough time for new developments, the organisers of MUNICH FABRIC START have decided to relaunch the Hightex Award as an annual award beginning September 2020 with a newly designed format.
The HighTex Award is part of an overall conceptual approach by MUNICH FABRIC START as one of the world’s largest textile fabric fairs for intelligent process solutions, innovative highlights, biotech, digitization and sustainable innovation.
„We see the HighTex Award as recognition for outstanding achievements and at the same time as motivation which encourages unique innovation projects. It promotes sustainable contributions towards a clean future and more conscious use of resources thanks to the innovative use of materials. Our congratulations to the top three companies and our respect to the performance and commitment of all of the participants and their innovative product developments.”
Frank Junker, Creative Director MUNICH FABRIC START
Spring.Summer 21 Fabric News at VIEW
As in the recent past, the range of collections offered by printers, knitters, weavers and denim specialists is already clearly defined in many areas. In exchange with designers and product managers and taking into account current trends, the range will be extended and adapted accordingly until MUNICH FABRIC START, 4th – 6th February 2020.
It is already apparent that the range of colours is moving in the direction of brown, cognac and terracotta; that black and white combinations are becoming important; that red with a slight orange hue is gaining significance and blue in various shades is increasingly in demand.
‘Right at the beginning of the first day, we served numerous visitors from Germany and Austria. At the moment, we are already presenting up to 80 percent of the new collection. In the weeks after Christmas we will add an additional Capsule collection. There is great interest in sustainable articles. We will be developing further qualities for this in time for the main trade fair.‘
Ted Styliandis of Liberty London.
Florals and newly interpreted batiks continue to dominate the prints as striking all-overs. Digitally applied kaleidoscopic interpretations are just as convincing as large format graphics and panneaux prints. Structured effects and crepe yarns are important, even in plain colours. Linen is widely accepted in various interpretations. From irregular plain colours to woven stripes, checks and jacquards. The trend towards cotton and cotton blends in combination with Tencel is strong once again. In contrast to this are articles with a technical finish – now even extending into the classically oriented women’s and menswear.
The demand for comfortable textiles with some part stretch is also increasing among high-fashion producers or even couture suppliers.
‘This edition of VIEW was a very successful premiere for us. We will be back again in summer for the next VIEW event. The response to our wide range of print collections was pleasingly positive. In discussions with numerous customers, we received a lot of input about the future development of our collection in time for MUNICH FABRIC START.‘
Yesim Sezer, Ipeker
Many of the collections presented at VIEW will now be further revised in the coming weeks and presented at the MUNICH FABRIC START February 4th-6th 2020, at which a total of around 1,000 suppliers will present their Spring.Summer collections.
Not At All Buttoned: Relying on Nature and Sustainability
Sustainability and value are at the top of the agenda for the button manufacturers. Natural materials as well as new, recyclable materials are even more in focus. The number of certifications for ecological and sustainable products and production methods has also increased even further for the manufacturers of buttons and additionals.
Union Knopf, for example, displays vegetable-colored walnut buttons as well as buttons and trim made from 100% Social Plastic, a material made from recycled plastic waste.
“Not more but better” – true to this motto Creativ Knopf extends the collection of high-quality natural materials. For a fashion-conscious customer who is increasingly looking for longer-lasting garments. Grades of shades of brown, colors such as spice stalls oriental markets and soft shades of gray support the tendency to soft, natural and haptic pleasant materials. Classical music is reinterpreted. Traditional designs are unexpectedly implemented and modernized.
The menswear continues to be influenced by retro influences. So cultivated Easyness and modern comfort from the sportswear at Creativ Knopf dominate the trends. Both the classic and casual casual looks benefit from it. Thus, freedom is created to continue the drive of menswear. Black becomes a minimalist matter of course when combined with elegant gray shades. New shades of brown become a futuristic-feeling entity through their combination of accent colors.
Rosenfelder also pays great attention to sustainability in addition to an extensive range of buttons made of natural materials. Thanks to constant research and development in the field of high-quality plastic materials, it has been possible to replace the conventional polyester resins contained in the material with new, eco-friendly bio-based binders. Furthermore, a proportion of recyclable waste is added to these materials.
Photocredits: Knopf & Knopf, Union Knopf, Creativ Knopf, Rosenfelder