Fashion
The Nurture Room: Interview with Pauline van Dongen
LET'S TAKE CARE OF FASHION TOGETHER.
During the previous edition of MUNICH FABRIC START, you presented the Smart Textile Pop-up Lab at the KEYHOUSE. What was it all about?
The aim of this Pop-up Lab was to familiarize people with smart textiles, and in particular those created by printed electronics. Through my work at Holst Centre (a leading Dutch R&D centre), I see the potential of printed electronics for the textile industry. These printed electronics are thin and stretchable and the printing process allows for a modular design approach. Moreover, they are made using familiar processes, namely through screen-printing conductive inks on flexible substrates like TPU and then heat bonding these smart “trims” onto textile. Visitors of the Pop-up Lab could see this process up close to better understand it and be inspired by the possibilities.
This time, visitors of the fair can book a (free) session in “The Nurture Room”. View the timetable and register here.
What will they experience there?
After having successfully shown the process of printing electronics and their integration in textiles, it is time for the next step. The Nurture Room is a space to reflect and to meet likeminded people who share a wish to do things differently within the fashion industry. It invites open dialogues addressing the urgency to create new relationships between humans and the clothing they wear.
The aim of the sessions at The Nurture Room is to not only inspire participants, but to ensure that they can follow up their inspiration with concrete actions once back in the office. You will be guided through the session by wearable technology experts: Pauline van Dongen and Marina Toeters. By booking a session on a particular topic, such as workwear, outdoor clothing or casual wear, you can tap into a wealth of knowledge and simultaneously help shape the direction of developments in the field of wearables.
The sessions are meant to connect companies covering the full value chain, in order to collectively contribute to new product developments. Together, we will discuss ways to embed technologies into clothing in ways that can nurture people and improve their wellbeing. Visitors will be able to encounter the latest developments that fall within this scope, such as MYSA 2.0: a “relax shirt” that guides the wearer through breathing exercises that can be felt through subtle vibrations along the spine.
Can you tell us a bit more about your own research and how the idea of The Nurture Room relates to it?
In my own research, I focus on the way clothing mediates between our bodies and the world. Our clothes shape how we relate to the world, they actively shape our perceptions and our actions. I look at how we can strengthen our relationship and emotional bond with clothing and, by wearing clothing, with others and with the environment. When our clothes become active and responsive, how will this affect the human-garment relationship for example? My research shows that when we create wearables, we need to take into account the full set of experiential qualities of the garment, and not just the functionality of the technology. I extensively describe this approach in my recent book “A Designer’s Material-Aesthetics Reflections on Fashion and Technology”. It also includes practical guidance for designers and engineers who wish to develop wearables.
As a designer working between the fields of fashion design, textile innovation and technology, I understand these different worlds and know how to connect them. I would like people entering this space to think very consciously about what they want to develop and for whom, what new values the product will bring to people and how they incorporate considerations relating to the well-being of the planet. This ambition is reflected in the concept of The Nurture Room.
Why did you call it “The Nurture Room”?
Nurture is care that is given to someone while they are growing and developing. The term reflects the care with which we should all treat industry. In the context of “nature vs nurture”, the word “nurture” describes the influence of learning and other influences from one’s environment. I experienced how many new things I had to learn when I made a turn to wearables. In wanting to change the system as well as my own position and attitude as a designer, I also noticed that I needed to shed some of the premises that formed the basis for my fashion education. This learning and unlearning are processes that not many people in the industry take the time for or get the time for. While new perspectives are so desperately needed right now. So, to help facilitate this, our main message is: “Come and nurture yourself, by expanding your knowledge in the area of wearable technology.”
Visit The Nurture Room at MUNICH FABRIC START on February 4-6 2020 in Munich, Keyhouse, Booth #34
Due to the limited number of places available for the free individual workshops, we kindly ask you to register by mail to Chantal Gräff at cgr@munichfabricstart.com.
WORKSHOP TIMETABLE
Tuesday, 4th February
11.00 – 11.45 am: sports & activewear
14.00 – 14.45 pm: wool & tailoring
Wednesday, 5th February
11.00 – 11.45 am: workwear
14.00 – 14.45 pm: intimates
16.00 – 16.45 pm: outdoor
Thursday, 6th February
12.00 – 12.45 pm: casualwear
View Expands on Sustainability
From the 3rd – 4th December 2019, VIEW Premium Selection will showcase the first material developments, qualities and colour tendencies for the new SPRING.SUMMER 2021 season a few weeks prior to MUNICH FABRIC START. TEXCART, TEJIDOS ROYO, LANIFICIO ROMA, DUTEL CREATION and BORNEMANN ETIKETTEN are among our exhibitors who will join the expanded presentation of sustainable fabrics and accessories showcased at VIEW:
What does it mean to your company to take more responsibility in terms of micro plastic and overconsumption?
TEXCART: It has been our focus for the last 5 years, starting with the materials we use on a daily basis; boxes, envelopes, general use paper, collection boards, stickers, where possible these are made in recycled paper and recycled material. In terms of over consumption, we care about enacting change and so we typically produce our articles on demand to reduce leftovers.
TEJIDOS ROYO: With the pioneering DryIndigo® technology developed by Spanish manufacturer Tejidos Royo, it is now possible to use 0% water in the denim production process. This is a real milestone in the textile industry. It also reduces energy consumption by 65% during manufacture, uses 89% less chemical products, and completely eliminates waste water discharge. As a result of implementing DryIndigo® technology in 2019, Tejidos Royo has saved more than 1 million litres of water used in denim dyeing. The economic contribution from the first million litters saved has been donated to UNICEF for its water and sanitation programmes which improve the lives of thousands of children around the world.
DUTEL: For the last 2 years, Dutel has been developing a sustainable range called ‘PURE’ which uses recycled polyester warp and organic cotton weft yarns. We plan to swap all our polyester warps into recycled ones. The challenge is to make an entirely sustainable collection and to source the serious reliable suppliers with traceability. For years we have collected and recycled any waste in our factory. As well, a new air conditioning system has considerably reduced our electricity consumption.
BORNEMANN: Besides providing sustainable labelling solutions for our customers, we aim to optimize our internal processes as well. By digitalizing our documentation, working on rapid prototyping and investing an increasing amount of time and effort in digital sampling we are reducing input of resources on various levels.
Tell us about the latest collection you are exhibiting at VIEW?
TEXCART: Our collection, as usual, will be complex and composed of several articles produced in a variety of materials, techniques and designs. We have prepared different themes which follow the tendencies but also in sustainable and recycled materials and as always we will feature a range of denim accessories. We are continuously updated in terms of tendencies, new techniques and materials, especially in sustainable and eco-friendly news through our large network of professional partners.
LANIFICIO ROMA: At Lanificio Roma we are sensitive to the use of recycled yarns, many fabrics of the latest collection are eco-sustainable. The qualities in our eco-cotton and viscose ECOVERO are made with sustainable yarns.
DUTEL: Summer 2021 by this jacquard specialist makes the most of shiny effects on vibrant, crunchy surfaces. Taffeta and voile grounds are enriched with transparent shines with a cellophane crunch. The colour palette is built on whites and pearly whites. Surfaces are covered with iridescent yarns to create hairy effects. Lightweight, cotton-like jacquards are lit up with a pearly sheen, patterns resonate thanks to colourfully iridescent yarns. Filigree or bold florals paired with bright stripes are enhanced with a colourful gleam.
BORNEMANN: We present our latest developments for Women/Menswear Denim, Modern Casual and Workwear. The challenge of workwear lies in combining fashion and function, materials need to fulfil certain standard specifications. Among other items, we are showing several flame-retardant products, woven, printed and silicon that stand up to current norms.
Shop less, waste less, produce less. What are the biggest challenges for you to continue to be successful and sustainable?
TEJIDOS ROYO: In the textile industry, we need to rework our processes to become a much more sustainable industry. DryIndigo is a major milestone in this area, and we hope that it inspires both the sector and the brands to develop more technologies that contribute to making our industry a much more responsible one towards our surroundings. We are facing the sustainable denim revolution and, with One Million Liters, we want everyone to take part in it so that, together, we can meet the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals before 2030.
LANIFICIO ROMA: We produce recycled raw material fabrics to offer significant benefits to our planet. We have created a new product with reduced water consumption, in order to fight the effects of the increase in pollution and excessive consumption. Our aim is to waste less and re-use production and consumer waste as new resources.
DUTEL: Our target is to offer top quality which is lasting over the years, especially for our ‘ALLURE‘ range which offer timeless, subtle textures and enlarges our offer for different customers types such as accessories, scarves, shoes, hats, but also kidswear. Produce less? No! To guarantee our business’ survival, we cannot produce less, but more instead offer more variety. Not to produce less, but produce better!
BORNEMANN: Balancing creativity, sustainability and efficiency seems to be the biggest challenge. In our day to day, this means we have to cooperate closely with our customers to understand their priorities. And, in the long run, work towards a situation where none of the three aspects are in conflict with each other. Digitalisation has a big impact on this, so mastering the challenges of digitalisation is our priority as a company.
Prepare Your Visit to VIEW
In time for the next edition of VIEW Premium Selection, taking place on December 3rd-4th 2019, here are the top 7 habits of the most successful buyers and project managers.
1. REGISTER FOR YOUR TICKETS IN ADVANCE
First things first, book your ticket in advance. Registering a few weeks before the event ensures you skip the registration process on the days of the event, saving you valuable time to get a head start on your trade show visit. Eager to attend our next scheduled event? Register to attend VIEW here
2. UNDERSTAND YOUR NEEDS
Research which products you are looking for and find the exhibitors ahead of time. Ask your sales teams, what products are the most popular? What fabrics will be essential for your new collections? Are you missing those all-important trim details?
3. CREATE YOUR LISTS
Come prepared with two lists: The ‘Must’ list and the ‘Bonus’ list. The ‘Must’ list will detail the fabrics or trims which you 100% need going forward for the new season. Whereas the ‘Bonus’ list reminds you of the items you would like but factors like budget and design direction or time limitations mean you’re not desperate to lock down. Be clear about your needs and specify; weight; width; colour; fiber; composition or structure.
4. SCHEDULE YOUR APPOINTMENTS
Arrange to meet with your existing partners as well as new brands at the show. Scheduling in advance means less time spent in queues at that specific supplier and guarantees valuable conversation time. It is important to understand your needs and consider these when booking your appointments. Check out our list of exhibitors in advance here.
5. PREPARE YOUR SCRIPT
As a potential partner, first impressions matter so take the time to prepare a succinct but informative introduction and get ready to talk minimums, turnaround times and of course price. Use targeted questions about the product offering, pricing and manufacturing support.
6. GET INVOLVED ON SOCIAL
Ahead of the event add us on Instagram, Facebook & Twitter and connect with our community. More importantly, discover the brands, businesses and companies who attend our show by following our hashtags #viewmunich and join in by tagging us and sharing your trade show experience and boost your profile.
7. BOOK TRAVEL AND ACCOMMODATION IN ADVANCE
Munich is a busy city with many events and tourism, booking your accommodation in advance is the easiest way to ensure a stress-free stay in our beautiful city. Check out ahead of the event what’s the best way to travel around the city, SBahn, UBahn, Tram, Bus or Uber. Plan your travel to the MVG Museum for VIEW here.
There is still plenty time to register for the upcoming show VIEW Premium Selection, December 3rd-4th in Munich, we can’t wait to see you!
A Conversation On Sustainability, Transparency & Mainstream
From slow fashion to mainstream business, materials to education, fashion and sustainability raise so many questions. A vast and complex issue, Muchaenta Kapfunde of FashNerd turned to 3 women making a difference in the sustainable fashion space.
Charney Magri a fashion photographer turned documentary maker. The co-founder of Fashion 4 Change has worked for the likes of British Vogue and Ralph Lauren, and now she is a partner for do epic sh*t. Olivia Pinnock is a London-based fashion journalist, lecturer and founder of The Fashion Debates. She is dedicated to uncovering insightful stories in a fascinating industry and promoting positive change for a more sustainable future for it. Abigail Morris is the Founder and CEO of Compare Ethics. It is a start-up that connects you to ethical brands through the latest online and offline experiences. Since launching in 2018, Compare Ethics is regularly featured in top social feeds and connects thousands of ethical shoppers with brands each week.
On the topic of sustainable fashion, I asked Charney, Olivia and Abigail to share their perspective on the most commonly asked questions.
CHARNEY MAGRI
Do you think that eco-fashion is still a niche market? If so, why?
The day that ‘Eco Fashion’ is just called ‘Fashion’ and is accepted as the norm, will be the day that I believe ‘Eco Fashion’ is no longer niche but rather just common sense.
In your opinion, what are the top 3 things that brands should focus on with regards to promoting their sustainable practice?
I don’t believe there are three focuses on promoting a sustainable brand. However, there are two main verticals in sustainable fashion: environmental and human rights. Both need to be addressed and both need to be made transparent for the success of any [sustainable] brand. As a visual communicator, I want to see all brands talking about this to their consumers as well as the right certifications in place to verify their practices.
What advice would you give an individual looking to start-up a sustainable fashion retailer, particularly with the threat of a current ‘retail recession’?
Research is the first most crucial piece of advice. But the biggest obstacle you will come across is finances. Sourcing sustainable fibres and fabrics are more expensive than unsustainable options and mills will not accept small runs. You must build relationships with suppliers to be able to get the smaller quantities needed, and this takes time. I really believe there is a future in collaborating with like-minded designers to approach companies together so you can fulfil your orders when starting out.
ABIGAIL MORRIS
In your opinion, what are the top 3 things that brands should focus on with regards to promoting their sustainable practice.
1) Create a strong storytelling environment. Whether via online or offline experiences, sustainability is best shared as a story that people can easily back and tell their friends.
2) Be authentic. Nobody is perfect when it comes to sustainability. Bring people on your journey and celebrate your achievements with your community in real time.
3) Strive for increased transparency. Open up your supply chain and show people you are working to the highest ethical standards. Whether you are showing who made your clothes or using blockchain to track your supply chain, people increasingly want to know the provenance of your products.
Do you think ethical clothing will ever out-compete the mainstream less ethical products and dominate the fashion industry in the future? Why?
I don’t think new ethical clothing alone will out-compete the mainstream. However, what is more, interesting is how new business models will disrupt the fast fashion industry. ThredUp found that the second-hand market is growing 21 times faster than retail apparel over the last three years and is on track to be larger than fast fashion by 2028. At the same time, fashion rentals and sustainable fashion are moving into the mainstream. Given that fast fashion relies on volume, it will be interesting to see how and when mainstream brands will pivot towards a conscious fashion future.
Why do you think people are still buying from mainstream shops that sell unethical clothing?
People still buy unethical clothing because there is a variety with a strong product-market fit, and it is super easy to find. Sustainable fashion is making amazing strides on these areas. We increasingly see brands get product quality, price point and aesthetics right, but we need more choice and scale to compete. This has to be coupled with an easy way to find sustainable products. This is why we set up Compare Ethics – we know there are amazing sustainable products out there, it just has to be easy to find them.
OLIVIA PINNOCK
What do you see as the biggest challenge in getting customers to seek out more ethical and sustainable alternatives to high street fashion?
The biggest challenge is the convenience of mainstream fashion. It is far easier to seek out familiar brands that the consumers’ trusts, are fresh in their minds because of advertising and offers affordable fashion with next day delivery than it is to look for alternatives. Greenwashing is another issue that does damage to the whole sustainable fashion community as shoppers are not sure who they can trust.
What steps can we take to increase transparency and accountability for high street retailers?
I think governments have a tremendous amount of power in making the fashion brands that operate in their countries more transparent. We have seen it here in the UK with the Modern Slavery Act and the Environmental Audit Committee’s investigation into a fast fashion which bought CEOs from some of the biggest UK retailers into parliament to testify on what they’re doing about the issue. Companies are not going to give over information about their practices and their suppliers willingly for fear of giving valuable information to their competitors, but governments have the power to say that protecting garment workers and the environment is far more critical than that.
What advice would you have for people that want to be more conscious of their fashion choices?
Start with the wardrobe that you have. Consumers can make the most significant difference by changing how much they buy and how they manage their clothes at the end of their life. There are things you can do to support more ethical brands and put pressure on big brands, but where you can make an immediate, tangible impact is in your own home. Take steps to reduce how much clothing you’re buying, if it’s possible, and when you’re done with a piece of clothing, ask yourself whether it can be repaired or upcycled instead. If you still want to throw it away, can you give it to a friend to extend its life? It’s much better to give it to someone you know will wear it than take it to a charity shop where you don’t know where it will end up, especially if they can’t sell it if it’s not worth hanging on to someone, research how you can responsibly dispose of textiles in your local area through recycling schemes.
Digital Fabric Lab – The Future Begins Now
Digitization 4.0 is one of the most important topics of the future when it comes to process control within the textile and fashion industry. At the same time, the digitization of fabrics in the preliminary stage of the clothing industry still poses a major challenge.
One of the key building blocks within these technical undertakings will be the digitization of materials and additionals. Digital material parameters such as elasticity, flexibility, tension and rigidity must be determined for the realistic presentation of textiles in product simulation. For these physical measurements, surfaces, colours and textures must be captured and combined in a technologically feasible way.
What this process of analysis looks like in practice, as well as how fundamentally this new achievement changes and accelerates production processes, is demonstrated by a DIGITAL FABRIC LAB which will be featured for the first time in KEYHOUSE.
‘We are convinced that in the future there will be a digital twin for every fabric or button presented. Through an innovative analysis process, the speed of the production process can be increased many times over. ‘
Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director MUNICH FABRIC START
In a community showcase initiated by MUNICH FABRIC START, leading specialist companies and university professionals have joined forces to demonstrate the individual steps in this new type of process in a comprehensive and practice-oriented manner using simulated digitisation stations.
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# PHYSICAL FABRIC MEASUREMENT
The accurate and informative value of the virtual simulation will on the one hand depend on exact physical parameters for the true representation of the textile material. As well as the transformation into corresponding parameters assigned by the simulation material model and on the other hand it will also depend on exact model calculations.
To describe the material behaviour, the basis weight, the material thickness, the rigidity, the elasticity and the draping behaviour of the textile surfaces can be determined and processed accordingly. This makes it possible for the user to make design and fitting decisions on a purely virtual basis, both for products that will be close to the body as well as those positioned further away.
Technische Universität Dresden
Helmholtzstr. 10
01069 Dresden
Germany
/ STAGE 2 /
# DIGITAL COLOUR COMMUNICATION
Caddon’s multi-spectral technology provides the visually stimulative effects of the design’s colours as well as its spectral data measurements, pixel by pixel in a rapidly captured and communicated image data set, thus making a significant difference to single spectral colour measurement.
With Caddon’s colour digitization, accurate colour values are available where they are needed :
- – in the form of digital colour books with comprehensive colour codes for designers.
- – in the form of digital multi-spectral images for visualisations for production and marketing.
Caddon Printing & Imaging GmbH
Stadionstraße 6
70771 Leinfelden-Echterdingen
Germany
/ STAGE 3 /
# FABRIC SCAN PROCESS
The visual properties of a material sample, sized max. A4, are recorded with the xTex scanner within 1 to 2 minutes. The digitised material is then made into a Tileable, block pattern repeated seamlessly with the help of the xTex software, in a further 5 mintues. Tileable means that it is seamlessly repeated and can be applied to larger areas than initially captured using 3D application.
If necessary, in the following step we can use Caddon’s export colour data to colour or retouch the material using our xTex software for a more accurate colour representation. The finished digital material can then be used in Vidya, for example.
Vizoo GmbH
Johann-Karg-Strasse 30
85540 Haar
Germany
/ STAGE 4 /
# DIGITAL FABRIC SIMULATION & VISUALISATION
3D-Vidya offers the best simulation of cut and material. With 3D-Vidya a piece of clothing becomes digitally visible on the computer, creating realistic decision making bases for designers, product developers and all others involved in the creation process of a collection :
Cutting concepts are visualized.
- – A design becomes immediately visible and can be optimized.
- – Details immediately available including drapery, imprints, ornaments which can be optimally placed.
- – Texture and material properties including elasticity or material thickness, distance to body, gloss structures or wrinkle effects can be precisely represented
- – Fabrics up to 3cm with up to 21 layers can be simulated.
- – Colour management enables the binding of colours to be specified by importing spectral colours and rejecting them under a series of neutral lighting scenarios.
Assyst GmbH
Europaallee 10
67657 Kaiserslautern
Germany
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# REAL TIME QUALITY ASSURANCE
Based on the speed, transparency and accuracy of Triple Tree Solutions, premium quality management and assurance
solutions is ensured in every stage of textile and apparel manufacturing and sourcing. Using the intuitive and modern user interface, our online quality management system QUONDA visualise all measurements and evaluations throughout the chain. The results are available in real-time and accessible by all members involved, across all devices.
Here at KEYHOUSE we demonstrate the process of colour evaluation, as well as provide a summary and evaluation of the results of the four simulation stations. Digital colour matching between the manufacturer and customer significantly accelerates the procurement process, saves costs and also lowers the carbon footprint of the participating companies by avoiding unnecessary transport – Green Sourcing!
Triple Tree
Kaiserswerther Straße 115
40880 Düsseldorf-Ratingen
Germany
KPMG x Microsoft: Merging Business, Technology and Fashion
Every industry is experiencing massive changes thanks to advancements in technology that are leading the way with new applications, services and opportunities. Revolutionising how companies manage, manufacture, market and sell, new technology is transforming customer expectations by changing how people communicate, live and shop.
Nowadays, for a company to thrive, it has to decide its level of technological integration. Easily described as a service, technology is already impacting various industries in different ways. According to KPMG, one of the leading auditing and consulting companies in Germany, one of those industries is fashion, particularly retail, where we are witnessing a radical shift in established brands that are not only being challenged by digital-enabled newcomers but also by customers who are smart, mobile-empowered, socially networked, and able to influence a brand’s reputation.
Ushering in a New World of Retail Fashion
Bringing business, technology and fashion to Munich Fabric Start’s Keyhouse this season, KPMG and IT-lighthouse Microsoft have come together to disrupt the future of fashion. It is a partnership that is presenting business and technology expertise to those within the fashion industry. KPMG wants to make a massive change in fashion by introducing disruptive technology that will transform many things like the means of communication by creating processes to collaborate and explore.
Working together with Microsoft, KPMG has found a new way to satisfy customers through their Omni Channel solution, which enables companies to gain a full 360° view of all customer touch points. They are also looking to empower employees with actionable processes that will fulfil the customer success story. Their end goal is to offer a new way that will successfully satisfy the modern customer by introducing a combination of HoloLens, a new POS system, better process management tools and social media engagement designed to usher in a new world of retail fashion.
Besides the partnership presenting an in-depth business and technology expertise to the fashion industry, KPMG has also taken a multifaceted approach so they can offer innovative solutions regarding customer acquisition, loyalty and reward programs, integrated marketing and social media strategies while enabling transparency throughout production and supply chain delivery. This is because KPMG has found all these topics to be of importance to the modern customer and therefore, likely to affect the bottom line of a fashion business.
Together both companies presented the Omni Channel strategy at the Keyhouse, our visitors experienced how the HoloLens, with integrated digital transformation, can help fashion businesses gain increased brand visibility. KPMG also shared their know-how on how companies can get the first-to-market advantage using HoloLens.
The Workshops of Haute Couture
On the last evening of the MUNICH FABRIC START, Thursday, 5 September 2019, the exhibition “The workshops of haute couture” opens its doors at 6.30 pm in the Galerie Handwerk in Munich.
The exhibition presents those fields of art that contribute significantly to the magic, the reputation and the fascination of haute couture. There are also three companies present at the MUNICH FABRIC START: Rosenfelder Knopffabrik, Tissage des Chaumes and Maison Sophie Hallette. Rosenfelder stands for high-quality products and for new developments in the area of buttons and additives. Buttons from Rosenfeld adorn the haute couture collections of Chanel and Chloé as well as other renowned fashion houses. Production takes place in Germany. Tissage des Chaumes is a recognized textile company with unique expertise in luxury hand weaving. In its more than 100 years of existence, the company has become an icon for all luxury brands around the world. The story of Sophie Hallette’s house was woven in collaboration with the top names of 20th-century haute couture, and continues to this day with young couture and contemporary designers. For more than 130 years, the House of Sophie Hallette has passionately and persistently created unparalleled tulle and laces designs that inspire haute couture, ready-to-wear, decorative and luxury lingerie designers from around the world.
In total, 26 companies are involved in the exhibition. The different areas are presented such as artificial flowers, feathers, pleats, buttons, borders, embroidery, lace, leather processing, fabric design and refinement as well as weaving, knitting, braiding. In addition, works from the ateliers of couture, the hat maker and shoe designers are presented. The aim of the exhibition is to support both the continuation of these traditions and to document the pursuit of new paths and innovations. The exhibition broadens and concerns the individual, hand-stitched production of fashion and accessories in general. In addition to couture ateliers from Munich, other ateliers from Germany, England, Switzerland, the Netherlands and Italy will be presented.
The Chamber of Crafts for Munich and Upper Bavaria is the largest chamber of trade within Germany, in which craft businesses of different trades are organized. Munich is the only one of the German Chambers of Crafts that has its own gallery.
The exhibition runs until 5 October 2019 in the Chamber of Crafts for Munich and Upper Bavaria, in Max-Joseph-Straße 4 in 80333 Munich.
KEYHOUSE - From Poetry to Digitalisation
As a think tank for fashion tech, smart textiles, sustainability and innovation, KEYHOUSE offers concrete approaches for a future-oriented textile and fashion industry. It spans the spectrum from technology to sustainability, from digitalisation to new material resources and manufacturing processes. The mindset of ‘democratic’ research projects, inspiring collaborations and networks as well as high-tech product and process development reflects the pulsating mood of KEYHOUSE at MUNICH FABRIC START.
Those attending include:
Smart Textiles Pop-Up Lab by Holst Centre x Pauline van Dongen featuring interactive workshops on printing electronics on textiles. As a Dutch research hub, the Holst Centre specialises in the development of printed electronics. Unlike conventional electronics, these circuits are thin, lightweight, flexible and even stretchable. They make it possible to make all kinds of products and materials interactive. The material properties of these printed electronics make them particularly suitable for integration in textiles.
KNITCLOUD by N.I.O. combines sustainability and digitalisation with the launch of a personalised 3D knitwear-on-demand brand at the Keyhouse, which as a smart network offers a future-oriented, sustainable answer to today’s overconsumption of clothing. What began with initial tests by start-up company The Girl and The Machine has now developed into a market-ready brand for custom-made 3D knitwear on demand that will be scalable in the future. Knitcloud by N.I.O. (New Industrial Order) will allow brands, designers and web shops to connect virtual designs, body measurement apps, virtual fitting solutions and a digital tailor system (DTS) with a subsequent on-demand ordering system (ONOS). In future, this smart concept will make it possible to produce customised and personalised clothing – as the world’s first open ecosystem for 3D knitwear on demand.
KPMG, one of the leading auditing and consulting firms in Germany, will deliver a unique fusion of business, technology and fashion to the KEYHOUSE this season together with the global IT group Microsoft. This partnership is dedicated to business and technology systems for the fashion industry. The launch of disruptive technologies such as HoloLens, a new POS system, better process management tools and integrated social media engagement will satisfy the modern, demanding customer of the future, ensuring a new era for fashion retailing.
DIGITAL FABRIC LAB
As a joint showcase initiated by MUNICH FABRIC START, the leading specialist firms Assyst, Caddon, Vizoo, Triple Tree Solutions and the University of Dresden have joined forces to present a new type of digitalisation process for fabrics in a comprehensible and practical way through simulated digitalisation stations. The DIGITAL FABRIC LAB demonstrates a new form of analysis process that overhauls production and accelerates it many times over. Digital material parameters such as elasticity, flexibility, tension and rigidity are determined for the realistic use of textiles in product simulation. For these physical measurements, surfaces, colours and textures must be recorded and collated in a technologically presentable way.
‘Digitalisation 4.0 is certainly one of the key issues when it comes to future process controls. One of the essential building blocks within these major technical changes will be the digitalisation of fabrics and additionals. For each fabric and each button there will be a digital ‘twin’.’
Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director MUNICH FABRIC START
SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS
Creating alternative materials from unusual resources, instructions for a new approach to textiles and clothing and the rediscovery of traditional crafts – the SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS Forum will showcase it all, discover:
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- PHERES & AUXTEX by Eric Esser, with the creation of CAD files thanks to the 3D printing process FDM (Fused Deposition Modelling).
- Atlas of Sustainable Colour(s) by JULIA KALETA as a sustainable colour compass.
- LOOP.A.LIFE with a circular approach to extending the life cycle of textiles.
- LOOP COLLABORATION STUDIO as an integrative movement of socially oriented resource exploitation.
- WORN TO WEAR by Lena Winterink interprets the conscious handling of clothing through the use of copper wire in the yarn.
- SWART LAEKEN by Lotte Gulpers present high-quality items made of premium wool as a sustainable raw material.
- DYELUX by Nikolett Madai uses by-products from the food industry to produce dyestuffs for textiles.
- KNOT by Sanne Visser looks at horn as a raw material from a new angle and creates yarns, ropes and nets from hair.
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With these selected showcases at KEYHOUSE we give impulses and solutions for a future-oriented use of materials and marketable production processes. This offers great potential for synergies and collaborations, which – used at the right interface and linked together – will have a lasting impact on industry. This season we have once again succeeded in mapping out a broad range of relevant topics for the future.’
Claudia Mynott, Communications Director MUNICH FABRIC START
HIGHTEX AWARD
The HighTex Award will be presented for the 7th time. The MUNICH FABRIC START Innovation Prize honours outstanding initiatives and commitment in the fields of intelligent process solutions, innovative highlights, biotechnology, digitalisation and sustainable innovations.
‘We present the HighTex Award in recognition of outstanding achievements and, at the same time, as a motivation for innovative research projects and thus as a sustainable contribution to a clean future and conscious use of resources.’
Frank Junker, Creative Director, MUNICH FABRIC START
Candidates are assessed according to the following categories: High-Tex, Technology, Smart Fibres, Sustainability, Resource Efficiency, Finishing, Functionality, Health and Circularity Process. An essential principle here is process realisation and marketability. The award winning products and other innovations in the KEYHOUSE HighTex Award Forum will be on display for the entire duration of the trade fair. Supplemented by detailed information on the respective exhibited products including contact information.
SIDE EVENTS
Furthermore, KEYHOUSE offers a comprehensive and exclusive programme of side events throughout the duration of the trade fair. In addition to trend seminars, these include top-class workshops, talks and round table discussions.
The entire lecture programme can be found at >> events.munichfabricstart.com
An Introduction to the Events Program at MUNICH FABRIC START
The event program on offer at Munich Fabric Start is a reflection on the issues, strategies and common themes the industry as a collective are facing right now. Through a series of seminars, panel discussions and keynote talks, we are equipping our visitors with the necessary tools and know-how to grow their brand and business successfully during these times.
Discover the events which are tailor-made for your business, check out our complete event program and begin to plan your trade fair visit. Here are our highlights from each of our event platforms at Keyhouse, ReSource and Denim Dock.
Create Future at Keyhouse
TUESDAY 3rd of September
SusTECHability Panel Discussion
11.30am – 1.00pm
SusTECHability – How trends and technology influence sustainability in fashion.
With Li Edelkoort of Trend Union, Michael Stnaley-Jones of United Nations Environment Programme, Tricia Carey of Lenzing Fibers, Natasha Franck of EON Group Holdings and Erik Bang of H&M Foundation. Moderated by Jana Kern and Alex Vogt of KERN Consulting.
EN
Swarovski Talk
2.00pm – 3.00pm
Trend Technik Design
With Dr Ralf Weinbeger and Christel Wickerath of Swarovski.
DE
Li Edelkoort Trend Presentation
4.00pm – 6.30pm
BROWN AGE – Fashion, Shapes, Textiles and Colours for AUTUMN/WINTER 20/21
GREEN WAVE – New Colours for SPRING/SUMMER 2021
RECREATION – Casual Wear Trends and Colours
MEET & GREET – Drinks with Li Edelkoort
EN
WEDNESDAY 4th of September
Fashnerd Panel
10.30am – 11.30am
Reshaping the Fashion Industry for good
With Muchaneta Kapfunde of FashNerd, Charney Magri of Fashion 4 Change and Do Epic Sh*t, Olivia Pinnock of The Fashion Debates and Abigail Morris of Compare Ethics.
EN
EON Group
11.30am – 12.30pm
Circular ID – The Digital Foundation for Circular Economy
With Natasha Franck at EON Group Holdings and Maruschka Loubser of Brand Marketing and Partnerships Microsoft
EN
Archroma
5.00pm – 6.00pm
Break new ground with aniline-free indigo for denim
With Albert Llort of Global Competence Center Denim
EN
THURSDAY 5th of September
FashNerd Keynote
11.00am – 12.00pm
From Seaweed to Fiber, Is Biology The Future of Fashion?
With Muchaneta Kapfunde of FashNerd
EN
Taking place in the lecture area in Keyhouse, Hall 5.
Let’s ReSource
TUESDAY 3rd of September
Lenzing
12.00pm – 1.00pm
Towards a circular economy – A fiber producer’s view
With Caroline Ledl of LENZING Group
DE
WEDNESDAY 4th of September
Oeko-Tex
1.00pm – 2.00pm
Sustainability leads to economic efficiency
With Dirk Schafer of Oeko-Tex
EN
THURSDAY 5th of September
s.Oliver Group
1.00pm – 2.00pm
WE CARE – The Sustainable Program by s.Oliver Group
With Astrid Schodel of s.Oliver Group
DE
Taking place in the lecture area in the MOC, ReSource k4 Area Foyer Hall 4.
Let Them Know at Denim Dock
TUESDAY 3rd of September
Panel Discussion
11.00am – 12.00pm
The Greendigo REvolution Panel Discussion
With Albert Llort of Archroma, Alberto Guzzetti of Tejidos Royo and Panos Sofianos, Denim Curator at Bluezone
EN
THE ALL RELATED TREND AND COLLABORATION PRESENTATION
12.00pm – 1.00pm
Meet the makers behind the future-proof premiere of collaboration and learn about the ALL RELATED trends
With Lucie Germset and Tilmann Wrobel of Monsieur T
EN
WEDNESDAY 4th of September
Sportswear International Talk
4.00pm – 5.00pm
WOMEN IN DENIM – How The Power of Woman Can Change The Denim World
With Sabine Kuhnl of Sportswear International, Lucie Germser of Monsieur T
EN
Monsieur-T
2.00pm – 3.00pm
How to be yourself as a brand
With Tilmann Wrobel of Monsieur-T
EN
Taking place in the elevated lecture area, Denim Dock, in the Bluezone Hall 7
Get up close and personal with BLUEZONE, one of the world’s largest denim shows featuring over 100 leading international denim & sportswear suppliers for Fabrics and Additionals.
You’re invited to attend MUNICH FABRIC START, where more than 1000 suppliers will present more than 1800 collections for Fabrics and Additionals for Autumn.Winter 20/21.
BLUEZONE: 3-4 of September 2019
MUNICH FABRIC START: 3-5 of September 2019
Prepare your visit to VIEW Premium Selection
VIEW Premium Selection is just over a week away and the excitement and anticipation is building for what is set to be a successful two days of networking and talking textiles. We cannot wait to welcome visitors old and new. Here are our top tips for making the most of your visit.
REVIEW OUR EXHIBITORS
Do a little research into what products you are looking for at your next visit. Ask you sales teams, what products are the most popular? What fabrics will be essential for your new collections? Are you missing those all important details? Perhaps you will be searching for small, local businesses or large international manufacturers. It is important to understand your needs and consider these when approaching an exhibitor. Check out our list of exhibitors in advance here.
SET UP MEETINGS
From our handy list of exhibitors online we also provide the relevant contact details for the company exhibiting at our show. Schedule meetings with your existing partners as well as new brands in advance. Our top tip, make sure to specify the meeting area, there are several handy locations on site such as cafes, lounge areas, outside eating and relaxing area, as well as seating areas spread throughout the halls.
PREPARE BUSINESS INFORMATION
Get ready to talk minimums, turnaround times and of course price. Take advantage of your time at VIEW with targeted questions about the product offering, pricing and manufacturing support.
MAINTAIN CONTACTS
Are there more people you want to meet at VIEW? Use your time at the fair in Munich to meet with colleagues, brands or representatives from your agencies. Plan time to maintain these business contacts perhaps with a lunch or dinner with partners and friends – for example at the VIEW Sundowner on Tuesday, 16 July from 18.30pm
VISIT THE VIEW WEBSITE
Our website shows important information such as the location, times, directions, product offerings and more. Check out the VIEW website here.
RELAX AND RECHARGE
Take care and remember to schedule time for recharging and refueling. Browse our trend and ReSOURCE areas for inspiration between meetings allowing you to discover new brands and visit interesting exhibitors.
LET US INSPIRE YOU
Surrounded by beautiful and diverse fabrics, denim and additionals offerings it will be difficult to not feel inspired in this hugely creative and beautiful atmosphere. To make the most of it, take notes of your favourite samples from our trend areas and be sure to pay the maker a visit.
REGISTER FOR YOUR TICKET IN ADVANCE
Our booking system requires each visitor to hold their unique visitor account with us, it is therefore faster and recommended to register for the event in advance. To ensure the event is well attended by industry professionals we ask for proof of affiliation which you can upload online. Register to attend VIEW here.
BOOK TRAVEL AND ACCOMMODATION
Munich is a busy city with many events and tourism, booking your accommodation in advance is the easiest way to ensure a stress-free stay in our beautiful city. Check out ahead of the event what’s the best way to travel around the city, SBahn, UBahn, Tram, Bus or Uber. Plan your travel to the MVG Museum here.
PLAN ACTIVITIES IN AND AROUND MUNICH
Make your trip even more enjoyable and make time for doing something fun! Munich is a beautiful city with many attractions, great connections to surrounding villages and as well as the mountains. Shopping, sports, sightseeing, hiking, Instagramming or simply soaking up the sun in any of our Beer Gardens, beer in hand of course!
CONNECT WITH US
Share your fair experience with us online, tags us in your photographs and use our event hashtag #viewmunich. Perhaps the best way to boost your company and designer profiles as well as connect and gain exposure from a broader audience.
There is still plenty time to register for VIEW on July 16th-17th in Munich!
We can’t wait to see you!