Create Future

Fabrics Spring.Summer 24 II

Fabric Highlights for Spring.Summer 2024 - Part II

30. March 2023

In the FABRICS Area, around 600 international suppliers present their material innovations for all apparel segments. The complete product portfolio of fashionable woven and knitted fabrics made of wool, cotton, silk, blends and functional fibers is represented here. For the Spring.Summer 24 season, we present some highlights from international producers in our FABRICS blogposts.

BEZ TEKSTIL

Since 1992, Bez Tekstil has been providing high quality fabrics and services for underwear and outerwear in Denizli, Turkey.

The new summer collection offers a diverse range of yarn-dyed designs and prints. The new collection is a mix of different inspirations with a common theme: NATURE. Natural Surfaces, nature-inspired surfaces and structures score with soft colourings in bright and soft colours.

Elegant minimalism offers balance and tranquillity and meets the life and energy of flowers and colours. Discover a range of high quality fabrics in PIMA Cotton USA and Egypt in our new collection for Spring.Summer 24 at their boot. 

BEZ TEKSTIL

BLOOMATI

Bloomati is a Carvema brand, which seeks quality and sustainability. Each fabric in the spring/summer collection has a variety of fibers in its composition: Linen, Seacell Pure, Hemp, Nettle. They also provide finishes that offer several benefits like antibacterial, UVA+UVB rays blocker, among others. Bloomati focuses on the expansion of their brand, betting on ecological, high-quality products and bringing innovation in fabrics.

BLOOMATI

CANCLINI1925 – PER LEI – BLUE1925

COLLECTION S24: SUPER STRIPES. This collection craves positivity, renewed graphics, colours and weights. Canclini proposes a new use of stripes: in barrè. A change of perspective to enhance this graphic. Summer is the perfect time to dare, to have character, to give visibility to the shirt. Coloured stripes also create a summer mood and lend fantasy to outfits. Discover the new collection in the KLAAS + HESSE studio.

CANCLINI1925

DRESDNER SPITZEN

As a traditional family business with a spirit of innovation, Dresdner Spitzenmanufaktur develops sophisticated and sustainable lace galloons, lace fabrics and functional warp knit fabrics, produced in our fully integrated production facility. Our collection features lace made from both conventional and recycled yarns as well as other innovative materials. The designs include filigree floral elements, patterns in a clear, classic design language, and modern structured details. 

DRESDNER SPITZEN

DUCA VISCONTI

Duca Visconti is the master of corduroy, moleskin, cotton and linen. A global fashion icon with a long history of tradition and innovation by entrepreneurs who have challenged the market by focusing on uniqueness and creativity.

Duca Visconti guarantees the highest quality standards, fast processing times and 100% made in Vaprio d’Adda, Italy. Check out the unique qualities of their new collection.

DUCA VISCONTI

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by Chantal Graeff

Fabrics Spring.Summer 24 I

Fabric Highlights for Spring.Summer 2024 - Part I

21. March 2023

In the FABRICS Area, around 600 international suppliers present their material innovations for all apparel segments. The complete product portfolio of fashionable woven and knitted fabrics made of wool, cotton, silk, blends and functional fibers is represented here. For the Spring.Summer 24 season, we present some highlights from international producers in our FABRICS blogposts:

ATHENEA

Athenea is much more than just a family textile company founded in 1976 in Alicante, Spain. Athenea has managed to keep all the production process internal, which allows them to be recognised as a vertical factory with the ability to develop qualities, print (digital as well as conventional), dye and finish. There’s no limitation in the number of colours nor the scale of the designs. They can 100% personalise the designs following their clients’ specifications, therefore creating unique and exclusive designs.

BOGAZICI ORME

Bogazici Orme is one of the industry’s leading companies which is specialized in producing / exporting jacquard knitted fabrics since 2006.

Developing new items before client request, delivery on time, invest in research and development are the principles lead us to success. They serve their passion, high quality and trust to their clients.

The collection offers recycled polyester / organic cotton and other eco-friendly materials. Furthermore a wide range of fancy yarn development is available and they are able to produce for Inditex and Join life. 

BOGAZICI ORME

GISTEX

Gistex brings new looks and new qualities for spring summer 24 suitable for blouses, dresses, blazer, trousers and more. They are using a high twist yarn both regular and recycled polyester for a more sustainable collection. Their focus is on Gistex: continuously better.

GISTEX

GLOBAL TEXTILE

Global Textile is one of the largest textile companies in the Republic of Uzbekistan, specializing in Yarn and Knit fabrics.

The company started operations in 2018 and is now vertically integrated in the production of textiles, from growing cotton to production of garments and apparel. The company grows its own cotton with the latest drip irrigation technology, has its own cotton processing plants, the largest spinning mills in Uzbekistan located in Tashkent and Fergana, including knitting and dyeing houses in Fergana. They have ISO, Usterized, Oeko-tex certificates, that confirm the quality, safety and environmental properties of their products. 

GLOBAL TEXTILE

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by Chantal Graeff

KEYHOUSE 2023

KEYHOUSE

Innovationshub für Mode von Morgen

14. March 2023

Im atmosphärischen Industriecharme des KEYHOUSE, der Halle 5, zeigen progressive Anbieter und Global Player aus branchenübergreifenden Bereichen ihre aktuellen Neuentwicklungen und Innovationen. Auf über 1.000 Quadratmetern finden Sie richtungsweisende Smart Textiles, Future Fabrics und neue Technologien – sei es in Punkto Nachhaltigkeit, Kreislaufwirtschaft, Digitalisierung, Traceability, Technologie oder Finishing. Inszeniert als interaktiver Think Tank stehen zukunftsweisende Show Cases neben Sustainable Innovations im Spotlight.

Im KEYHOUSE befindet sich auch das Hauptvortragsforum der MUNICH FABRIC START mit exklusiven Keynotes, Podiumsdiskussionen, Trend Präsentationen, Q&A Sessions & Experten-Talks internationaler Branchen-Insider. Dies sind einige der innovativen Brands, die ihre Neuheiten während der letzten KEYHOUSE Edition im Januar 2023 präsentiert haben.

ZUM VORTRAGSPROGRAMM

FICUS INNOVATIONS

Stellen Sie sich eine Technologie zum Färben von Textilien vor, die im Vergleich zu herkömmlichen Reaktivfärbemethoden mehr als 50 % Wasser und Energie spart. Stellen Sie sich außerdem vor, dass sie natürliche Pflanzenabfallextrakte als Farbstoffe und Hilfsstoffe für alle Vor- und Nachbehandlungs- und Färbeprozesse verwendet. Ficus Innovations hat seine einzigartige Technologie zum Färben von Naturstoffen nach 7 Jahren R&D entwickelt. Ziel ist es, natürliche Ressourcen zu schützen und wiederherzustellen, indem die Einführung nachhaltiger Stofffärbe-, Druck- und Veredelungsprozesse beschleunigt wird.

KAISER & DYSTAR

Der türkische Laundry-Anbieter Kaiser hat kürzlich das Advanced Used-Look-Konzept für modische Wash-Down-Effekte lanciert. Dieses Verfahren nutzt einzigartige und nachhaltigere Methoden, um mit einer neuen Farbstoffgruppe namens Lava Dye OZN einen Used-Look auf farbigen Kleidungsstücken zu erzielen. Das Advanced Used Look-Konzept biete eine einzigartige Lösung für die Probleme des Marktes in Bezug auf Kosten, Echtheit, Reproduzierbarkeit und Nachhaltigkeit bei used Non-Denim-Looks mit wasserlosen Methoden und der speziellen DyStar-Chemie.

MONTEGA

Rapid Dry ist das revolutionäre Produkt von Montega, das den Trocknungsprozess verkürzt und einen Mehrwert für das fertige Kleidungsstück schafft. Dank seiner speziellen Formel ermöglicht Rapid Dry eine schnellere Verdunstung des Wassers in der Faser, Energieeinsparung während der Trocknungsphase und folglich niedrigere Kosten für den gesamten Prozess, wodurch ein saubereres Kleidungsstück mit weniger Verschleiß erzielt wird.

REACTIVE REALITY

Reactive Reality ist der führende Anbieter von Technologien zur virtuellen Anprobe und zur Erzeugung virtueller Modebilder. Die PICTOFiT-Plattform ermöglicht es Modemarken und Einzelhändlern, virtuelle Umkleidekabinen und fotorealistische Avatare nahtlos in ihre Website, App und In-Store-Lösungen zu integrieren. Für Verbraucher erstellt die Plattform fotorealistische Avatare von Käufern, die genaue Größenempfehlungen für alle Marken ermöglichen. Die Avatare können interaktiv eingekleidet werden und bieten unbegrenzte Outfit-Kombinationen und virtuelle Hintergrundszenen.

TORAY INTERNATIONAL EUROPE

Toray ist ein integrierter Chemiekonzern, der seine Geschäftstätigkeit in 29 Ländern und Regionen weltweit ausübt. Das 1926 gegründete Unternehmen ist ein weltweit führender Hersteller von fortschrittlichen Materialien und ein Lösungsanbieter mit Schwerpunkt auf Fasern, Textilien und Bekleidung.

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by Chantal Graeff

THE SOURCE 2023 - SPRING.SUMMER 24

THE SOURCE

PRIME MANUFACTURING SOLUTIONS

7. March 2023

Im Atrium 3 präsentierten fast 30 ausgewählte Bekleidungshersteller ihre Produkt- und Serviceleistungen rund um die neuesten Sourcing Services und Apparel Manufacturing. Das Leistungsspektrum der international erfahrenen Fertigungsunternehmen umfasst neben Cut-Make-Trim (CMT) Lösungen auch High End Production. Des Weiteren werden Services wie A-Z Prozesslösungen inklusive Beschaffungsabläufe geboten – die perfekte Ergänzung der Wertschöpfungskette im vielfältigen Portfolio der MUNICH FABRIC START.
Als Teil der MUNICH FABRIC START ist THE SOURCE Studio eine One-Stop-Sourcing-Plattform und Bühne für Komplettanbieter mit End-to-End-Lösungen von PLV bis White-Label für Marken, Labels und den Einzelhandel. Vertreten sind Unternehmen aus einigen der wichtigsten Beschaffungsländer wie Italien, Portugal, Griechenland oder der Türkei, die einen businessrelevanten Mix an Services präsentieren. 

LAGOON LTD

LAGOON LTD bietet als Fashion Sourcing & Manufacturing Partner ein breites Segment von Knitwear, Light woven bis Outdoor Produkten an. Der Full-Service-Supplier bietet mit seinem neusten 3-D Visualisierungsprogramm den Kunden in Form eines virtuellen Portfolios die Möglichkeit, schon vor Mustererstellung ein konkretes Bild ihrer Design-Anfrage zu erstellen. Diese 3-D Visualisierung verkürzt Lieferzeiten, spart Kosten und hat einen hohen nachhaltigen Effekt. Zusammen mit dem Print-Projekt „Partner In Crime“ entwickelt Lagoon für seine Kunden exklusive Prints, die dann ebenfalls vorabauf verschiedenen Silhouetten visualisiert werden können.

OTS

OTS verfügt über ein umfangreiches Angebot an Kleidungsstücken, Stoffen, Veredelungen und Accessoires, das sie Designern und Produktverantwortlichen unserer Kunden anbieten. Das Angebot wird ständig aktualisiert und saisonal mit innovativen, aber dennoch kommerziellen Kleidungsstücken ergänzt. OTS konzentriert sich auf natürliche und recycelte Materialien und bietet die Möglichkeit, mit 100% natürlichen Farben zu färben. 

POLOPIQUÉ

Polopiqué ist eine der wenigen vollständigen vertikalen Textilindustrien weltweit, die die Produktion von der Spinnerei über das Weben/Stricken und die Veredelung bis hin zur Herstellung hochwertiger Kleidungsstücke kontrolliert. Sie bieten Strukturen wie Gewirke für Komfort, Elastizität und einen angenehmen Griff, flüssige Interlocks, extra leichte Rippen und hochwertige Trikots. Spezielle Ausrüstungen wie UV-Schutz, antibakteriell, knitterfrei, Wärmeregulierung und Hautpflege. Die SS24-Kollektion umfasst Stoffe und Knits, die unter ökologischen Gesichtspunkten entwickelt wurden, wobei recycelte und natürliche Fasern bevorzugt werden. Mischungen mit Fasern wie Bio-Baumwolle, recycelten und biologisch abbaubaren Fasern – Hanf, Leinen, Ananasfaser, Brennnessel, umweltfreundliche Viskose, Lyocell, Modal und Naia-Aceta.

TOP TRENDS

Top Trends Lda stellt mit der neuen limitierten High Range/Luxury-Serie auf der Munich Fabric Start ein neues Produktkonzept vor, das sich durch einzigartige Muster, leuchtende Farben, Schnitte, hochwertige und nachhaltige Rohstoffe sowie eine detailgetreue Produktion mit hohen Qualitätsstandards auszeichnet. Die Linie strahlt einen Hauch Respektlosigkeit, Differenzierung, Freude und Energie aus, ohne die Essenz hoher Qualitätsstandards zu vernachlässigen. Top  Trends Lda bietet Hosen, Denim, Kleider, Blusen, Jacken, T-Shirts, Jumpsuits, Shorts und vieles mehr. Die verwendeten Rohstoffe sind alle auf Qualität und Wohlbefinden ausgelegt, wobei die oberste Prämisse natürliche Rohstoffe wie Bio-Baumwolle, Tencel Lenzing, Viscose Ecovero und recycelte Produkte sind.

UNION 3 FASHION

Eine Kombination aus lebhaften und energiegeladenen Mustern und Grafiken in Orange-, Blau- und leuchtenden Pastelltönen schaffen eine verspielte und sommerliche Modegeschichte von UNION 3 FASHION. Die Schönheit der Natur, kombiniert mit natürlichen Farbtönen, trägt auch zu einigen zeitlosen Damenmode-Modellen bei. Die Verwendung von plissierten Stoffen mit fließenden Bewegungen, Transparenz und unsere feinen Jacquards vervollständigen die Union 3 Fashion Kollektion für die kommende Saison.

Eindrücke von THE SOURCE 2023 - SPRING SUMMER 2024

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by Chantal Graeff

THE SOURCE 2023 - SPRING.SUMMER 24

THE SOURCE

PRIME MANUFACTURING SOLUTIONS

28. February 2023

Almost 30 selected clothing manufacturers present their products and services around the latest sourcing services and apparel manufacturing at THE SOURCE
studio in Atrium 3.

The range of services of the internationally experienced manufacturing companies include cut-make-trim (CMT) solutions as well as high-end production. Furthermore, services such as A-Z process solutions including procurement processes are offered – a suitable addition to the diverse portfolio of MUNICH FABRIC START.

As part of the MUNICH FABRIC START, THE SOURCE studio is a one-stop sourcing platform and the stage to all-in-one providers to present turnkey, end-to-end solutions from PLV to white-label for brands, labels and retail. Companies from some of the most important manufacturing countries such as Italy, Portugal, Greece or Turkey will be on site to present a business-relevant mix of services.

BETA

Beta is a knitwear manufacturer with in-house facilities like printing, embroidery, pattern making, design, cutting, sampling. With additional garment dye & garment wash house, they offer different varieties to their customers and want them to have a full experience. Beta is taking place in sustainability movement and with different certificates in hand, they do provide different production processes.

BLOK MODA

Blok Moda is one of the leading apparel manufacturers and exporters, specialized in knitwear with more than 26 years of experience in the clothing industry.  They provide flexible, time and cost-effective solutions with 3D technical drawings, designs, sewing and virtual fittings on human based avatars. They can easily create fabrics with all color options and place your samples in your personalized avatars based on your brand identity. Direct service and communication is provided at any stage from collection and sampling to follow-up of manufacturing preparation, quality control and shipment.

EAST

EAST is a Danish design driven private label production company. EAST was founded in 2009 and has experienced a successful growth over the last years. Today we work with the best brands all over Europe. Our Design department creates a collection with around 60-80 styles every week divided into 5 capsule collections. You can find our showrooms in Germany, Denmark and Spain. Explore our new creations at our booth.

KREATEKS

The fully sustainable garment producer Kreateks was founded in 2005 and offers light woven and any kind of jersey garments for European Brands. They own certificates from GOTS, RCS, GRS, OCS and in Social Compliance part and are also certificated with both BSCI and SEDEX. Find shirts, blouses, tops, dresses, skirts, pants, jackets in light woven fabrics and mesh, lace, jacquard fabrics as well as garments with printed bases. Available materials are viscose, cotton, modal, lyocell, re-cycled polyester, wool fabrics, cupro, silk, Lenzing and ecovero.

IMPRESSIONS OF THE SOURCE 2023 - SPRING SUMMER 2024

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by Chantal Graeff

Designers as game changer - ASSYST

Sustainability:
Designers as game changers

Creativity up and costs under control – that’s the true heart of sustainability.
At the Assyst Experience, creative designers will see how they can have a huge influence on material consumption.

23. February 2023

Purchasing and production are usually responsible for sustainability. However, you can significantly influence costs, material consumption and profitability if you think beyond reusable fabrics – and the key to this is in the hands of apparel designers.


Shaping sustainability and profitability with 3D
Nowadays, development in 3D is everywhere. Optical prototypes help to save samples during approval procedures. How sustainable and cost-efficient the entire development process actually is becomes apparent as soon as the design draft moves on to technical product development. Most 3D design software is not based on production-safe patterns. If important information for product development and production such as seam allowances and sizing & fitting is missing, the pattern must be changed and re-approved in 2D. Physical samples are then necessary, despite the 3D design. Not so with Assyst.

Achieving a better hit rate for designs – without any physical samples
The Assyst 3D design software is always based on a production-oriented 2D pattern that supports a seamless process from 3D through to production. This ensures greater sustainability and cost efficiency. Because a digital product has already been created in the design you can decide on the look, but also whether the sizing & fitting is correct and what the later production result will be. These advantages are evident in the entire process – but especially in design, where time is tight. The more efficient this phase is, the less burdensome it will be for all departments. Development can be cut short to just a few days instead of weeks.

 

Buying and producing precisely the right amount of fabric
In the digital development process data flows from production to design just as easily and quickly as from design to production. This is important because a lot can be achieved at the beginning of the process. Let’s assume that the 3D design software is networked with order optimization. If so, all the participants can estimate the fabric consumption and material costs from the first draft and quickly introduce countermeasures if the product costs deviate in any way from the collection framework plan. Companies can also negotiate in a more targeted manner and only have as much fabric produced as is needed.

Always the correct production result for color, material and sizing & fitting
All the elements of a clothing product can be digitally controlled in the process. Color can be captured precisely and sent to supply partners. These values serve as exact references for quality control. Digital fabrics with the textures and properties of the actual materials help creative designers with product simulation and facilitate remote decisions.


Thinking of new ways
If the product is entirely digital, it makes sense to become creative in the process and drive innovations like automation. Not only fabric developments but also knitting designs can be developed digitally, visualized in 3D for a sizing & fitting check and then transferred straight to the knitting machine.


The Assyst Experience – a new event format for digital design
At the Assyst Experience, these topics will come alive for you! Exemplary processes give designers ideas for implementation in their own companies, and lectures on key topics of the industry complete the program.

Discover more industry-changing innovations at our upcoming trade shows:

BLUEZONE

18/07 – 19/07/2023

www.bluezone.show

MUNICH FABRIC START

18/07 – 20/07/2023

www.munichfabricstart.com

THE SOURCE

18/07 – 19/07/2023

www.thesource.show

by Chantal Graeff

A Vibe Shift is coming

A Vibe Shift is coming

A contribution by DMI trend analyst Carl Tillessen
about the turning point of a completely new attitude to life

23. January 2023

Often, fashion trends are merely new variations on already familiar themes over many seasons. But then at some point there is suddenly a fundamental break, a completely new attitude to life, a completely different basic mood, a “vibe shift”. We are now at such a turning point.

The measures necessary to contain Covid 19 have been so all-encompassing that they have actually robbed us of all joy in life in the meantime. Many of us are left with the feeling that we have lost two years of our lives. This is felt particularly intensely by young people who were irretrievably robbed of part of their precious youth by the pandemic.

Greta Thunberg speaks for her entire generation when she says in retrospect: “We have become more aware that life is short.” The realisation that our time on earth is running out far too quickly is anything but new, but it is particularly topical for us now.

Fashion psychology professor Carolyn Mair also observed during the pandemic how consumers “realise that life is precious, whereas before they might have taken things for granted. They are seizing the moment.”

Carl Tillessen

As the 20s take shape, it becomes clear that the Lifestyle of Health and Sustainability, which has dominated the Zeitgeist for the past two decades, has reached its end. Because the L.O.H.A.S. is the opposite of the moment. It is the eternal later. If we chastise ourselves now – so he promises – we will have a healthy body and a healthy environment later. This is and remains true, but through the collective pandemic experience, the fear that we will neglect to enjoy today because of all the thinking about tomorrow has become overwhelming. We crave self-indulgence, need outlets, want to break out, go overboard, want to live as if there is no tomorrow …

GET INFORMED & INSPIRED AT MUNICH FABRIC START AT DMI:

Find out what this means for fashion and what follows the Lifestyle Of Health And Sustainability at MUNICH FABRIC START at the trend presentation of DMI S/S 24

Wednesday, 25 January, at 4:00pm
in Room K1 in front of Hall 1 at MOC.

Discover more industry-changing innovations at our upcoming trade shows:

BLUEZONE

24/01 – 25/01/2023

www.bluezone.show

MUNICH FABRIC START

24/01 – 26/01/2023

www.munichfabricstart.com

THE SOURCE

24/01 – 25/01/2023

www.thesource.show

by Chantal Graeff

Textile Innovations: Ready To Be Supercharged in 2023?

Textile Innovations:
Ready To Be Supercharged in 2023?

A contribution by Muchaneta ten Napel, Founder & CEO, Shape Innovate

19. January 2023

When it comes to textiles, one of the biggest challenges has been the industry taking on the responsibility to examine its processes. Although a necessary step, it is not an easy one for an industry built on foundations that date back to the mid-1700s industrial revolution. The good news is that with the help of new technology, the textiles industry is beginning to become better equipped to address most of the pain points in its supply chain, and in 2023 we may actually witness more innovations than ever being accelerated and scaled.

What To Expect in 2023
In the last few years, a shift in values has been redefining the textile industry. It is a shift driven by various technological solutions created to transform the global textile industry, so businesses can reach their sustainability and circularity goals and also understand the role that policy will most likely play in pushing value-driven fabrics forward. 

So with innovation as its backbone, what can industry players seeking a more constructive view of the textile market expect in 2023?

Well, here is an overview of what is expected from the textiles space in 2023:

  1. There will be an acceleration and scaling of textile technologies that will position companies, small and midsize players, to explore further innovations that will help them align their business so they can adapt their practices and commit long-term.
  2. New fabrics will no longer survive but thrive as more research into sustainable materials and technologies increases and more brands continue to invest in sustainable and safer innovations.
  3. The textile industry in 2023 is expected to focus less on decadence and more on authenticity.
  4. We will witness the adoption of new business models that support sustainability initiatives — including supply chain traceability and the reduction of material usage.
  5. One of the growth drivers of the global textile market will be increasing demand for environmentally friendly and readily available natural fibres. In addition, more performance and technical fabrics will lean towards natural fibres.
  6. In 2023, more governments will start imposing stringent regulations. As a result, there will be more pressure on textile manufacturers to be less scattered and unorganised, especially when using toxic dyeing chemicals.
  7. The landscape will see an increase in market players whose USPs will be strongly driven by new technology and innovations. With a competitive edge, these material innovators bring new growth opportunities and strategies to the market.
  8. The textiles industry will continue to face materials, manufacturing and sustainability challenges in 2023. However, the good news is that the solutions that will continue to be explored in 2023 will be of a collaborative kind.
  9. Regarding future proofing manufacturing, 2023 strategies will push forward new research around new materials, digital manufacturing and sustainability for future textiles. In addition, textile manufacturers will create new supply chain models based on vertical integration, nearshoring, and small-batch production.
  10. In 2023, expect speed and agility to effectively tackle the challenges that slow down the growth of the textile and garment industry.

If you take away one thing, let it be this:

don’t be scared by the threat of new textile legislation distracted by the predicted digital shakedown or exhausted by the growing customer demands for sustainability.

Instead, ask yourself, if the future is promised to those who can ride through the challenges by embracing technology across their supply chain, can I afford to shy away from strategically sharpening my approach to the innovative dynamics driving the textile industry in 2023?

Are you interested in more in-depth facts and figures on the new textile economy?

Visit the Shape Innovate Lounge in H5 | 04 or attend the mini-lectures in the Keyhouse.

About the author

Founding editor-in-chief of Shape Innovate, Muchaneta has worked in the fashion industry for over 14 years. She is currently one of the leading influencers speaking and writing about the merger of fashion with technology and wearable technology.

Muchaneta ten Napel | m@shapeinnovate.com

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by Chantal Graeff

"How do our actions contribute to the better?"

“How do our actions contribute to the better?”

Interview with Simon Angel, Curator of the Sustainable Innovations Forum

18. January 2023

What is currently happening in the industry of innovators, transformers and forwardthinkers?

Different developments can be observed – especially when it comes to upcoming designers and creators, which is very interesting yet inspiring. Newcomers are about either entering the industry or creating their own one; furthermore, they all developed a very high professionalism in everything they do and how they present their ideas. Storytelling matters, that’s why we see crafts that concern and that communicate about thoughts, materials and backgrounds. They somehow reflect on the state of the industry and/or they question current systems. Just with the eye on possibilities, not to add critique. It is a friendly way to inspire.

You just said creators are “entering the industry or creating their own one”. What do you mean by that?

Well, actually right as I say. Either people and ideas enter an industry OR they create an industry. Entering means that designers or creators just fit into an industry and can get part of it or they can develop their own techniques and make it scalable and somehow create their own. Let me give you an example: WINT Design Lab discovered a new material and also discovered how to use it in order to make it relevant for the market. Either they can enter the industry OR if they find possibilities to cover all the needs within the supply chain and develop the machines to produce in a big scale, they could go big and just create their own industry.

Simon Angel

What other developments can you identify?

Back in the days, let’s say about five years ago, there was mainly one person behind a new idea that was working within a tiny studio. Compared to that, everything is so much more professional: being a material designer, you can have a studio and work with employees who assist. That is nowadays how designers get ready to present their idea to the market. You need people who bridge the gap between the studio and the market. I personally recognize a huge potential in this point of professionalism, because people get ready to connect – young designers now offer representative samples and get in touch with the industry on a very professional level. Newcomers inspire the industry.

What sounds very interesting. What do the newcomers do differently?

Things that impress the industry: crafts that concern and communicate. The designers and their innovations want to tell us stories: it’s about the material, systems (and old behaviours) but also the designs. We can get glimpses into cultural backgrounds, different techniques, social aspects and so much more. For example, the project “Rootful” by Zena Holloway and the project “Choub” by Mehdi Mashayekhi show off how to create a material out of seagrass or wood with the implemented idea to use the finished garment or the designs as tools to communicate.

That’s a positive development, isn’t it?

Yes, it is. But one thing should not be forgotten: we are in the middle of a delicate discussion on the urgency of creating, within that everybody has to
put their own position into a fresh perspective. I sometimes find it important to take a bit of a distance and ask rhetorically questions like: So what? We are
leaving the era of RE-thinking we are entering an era of PRE-thinking. We can challenge ourselves in critical self-reflection with a future smile.

We should not design just to be a designer or cook just for the sake of being a chef. We should not create just to be a creator. We should not just buy new stuff, only for the sake of being a consumer. Way more, we should cook when people need food, design when designs are not good enough and create when the world needs a new product. Let’s stay critical and ask ourselves over and over again: how do our actions contribute to the better?

EXPOLRE AND GET INSPIRTED AT MUNICH FABRIC START

IN THE SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS AREA AT KEYHOUSE – H5!

Discover more industry-changing innovations at our upcoming trade shows:

BLUEZONE

24/01 – 25/01/2023

www.bluezone.show

MUNICH FABRIC START

24/01 – 26/01/2023

www.munichfabricstart.com

THE SOURCE

24/01 – 25/01/2023

www.thesource.show

by Chantal Graeff

Meet Saitex - the vertical Vietnamese Denim Entity

Meet Saitex:

Welcoming the Vietnamese vertical Denim Entity to BLUEZONE 2023

16. January 2023

Global jeans manufacturer Saitex is going vertical as it officially announces the opening of its first denim fabric making mill in Vietnam. The new 100,000 square meter facility is located 40 minutes from its cut & sew factory near Ho Chi Minh City where 18,000 pairs of jeans are made on average per day.

The new mill covers all operations from yarn spinning to weaving and to fabric dyeing and finishing. Saitex has announced it will produce 2 million meters of fabric per month, or 24 million yearly, and some 750 tonnes of yarn per month. These new operations have created 630 new jobs and the company says it will employ 1,000 at full capacity. As it has already done at its cut & sew factory, 20% of the jobs will be filled by people with disabilities.

Like Saitex’s “Factory of the Future” in Los Angeles, CA, the new facility incorporates the latest and lowest impact technologies. The mill is equipped to produce yarns in pure cotton or in blends in dual-core, multiple-core and SiroSPUN technologies.

For indigo dyeing, Saitex has installed the Smart Indigo system that pre-reduces indigo via an electrochemical process. This, the company says, leads to lower CO2 emissions by 90%, requires 70% less energy and 30% less water, with oxygen as the only product released. Karl Mayer rope dyeing machines lead to further environmental savings, thanks to fewer dye bathes, and a 30% reduction in indigo and chemical usage.

Other eco-responsible features at the new site include LEED Gold Certified materials for the building, 15,000 solar panels, greywater recycling and rainwater collection systems. A vegetable garden covers 40% of the total site to feed workers and local communities. Saitex says it has also planted 6,000 trees in the industrial park, and has offset its carbon emissions by planting 50 hectares of mangroves in Vietnam, as part of its plan to contribute to climate neutrality by 2025.

“It has been our long-term vision to close the loop on our operations. With the opening of the mill and the upcoming launch of our textile upcycling facility, Stelapop, our vision will be complete. We will close the circle, allowing us to provide unprecedented transparency in denim production and the ability to turn apparel and textile waste into high-quality goods. Our target is to become the most sustainable fabric mill on the planet making fully circular production possible for our customers.”

Sanjeev Bahl, CEO und Gründer von Saitex

VISIT US AT BLUEZONE 2023

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by Chantal Graeff