Munich Fabric Start
Honestly Hemp - Sustainable Innovations
Honestly Hemp
Back To The Roots
by NATASHA AMISHA
Sustainable Innovations
Hemp: a truly versatile plant, once one of the main sources of man-made textiles. Today, most of us know it under the names “cannabis” or “marijuana”, which tend to evoke predominantly negative connotations. Design Academy Eindhoven alumna Natasha Amisha sought to investigate the source of this disconnect with her graduate project “Honestly Hemp”. Her vision: to create an entire outfit made wholly from hemp fibre and end the stigma surrounding the plant.
Natasha soon discovered that our tainted view of the hemp plant is mainly based on misconceptions, and that it could be a key ingredient in helping the textile industry become more sustainable. Not only is hemp a robust plant that thrives in diverse conditions, it also requires minimal water, is among nature’s strongest fibers, thus ensuring long-lasting life cycles, boosts sustainable agriculture as it enhances soil quality and is antibacterial, UV resistant and hypoallergenic. With “Honestly Hemp”, she has set out to place this fascinating natural material at the forefront of sustainable solutions for the future of the textile industry.
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Fabric Trends Spring.Summer 25 - Part V
Fabric Highlights for Spring.Summer 25 - Part V
In the FABRICS Area, around 600 international suppliers present their material innovations for all apparel segments. The complete product portfolio of fashionable woven and knitted fabrics made of wool, cotton, silk, blends and functional fibres is represented here. For the Spring.Summer 25 season, we present some highlights from international producers in our FABRICS blogposts:
KASAR & DUAL TEKSTIL
With nearly 60 years of experience, Kasar & Dual has a wide range of high quality knitted fabrics manufactured using the latest technologies. They continue to be a pioneer in the sector with rain harvesting and solar energy applications by adopting sustainability and environmental awareness. They are proud to be an example for other companies in the sector with its special machines that are unique in the world and projects that reduce water use. They have OEKO-TEX, GOTS, OCS and GRS certificates.
KUMASH TEKSTIL
In its new spring/summer 2025 collection, Kumash Fabrics, consisting of a dynamic team, is focusing on lasting and social sustainability. With its new trend colours such as turquoise, copper and green, they want to set an example for more sensitivity, transparency and sustainability, among other things through various woven fabrics made from natural fibres such as cotton, linen and Tencel.
LAMI TEXTILE
Lami Textile’s inspiring SS25 fabric collection offers comfort and is provided with recycled and elastane blends to ensure freedom of movement. Lami Textile’s fabrics are ready for summer action: practical, functional, eco-friendly, elegant and evolving to bring suit fabrics from the classic to the casual look.
LEMAR
The Spring/Summer 25 Collection of Lemar continues to uphold their commitment to ecoconscious fashion. At the heart of this collection is Q-Cycle by Fulgar™, a revolutionary approach that incorporates end-of-life tires into the mass balance technology used during its production, minimizing waste and giving a new life to materials that would contribute to environmental challenges. Join Lemar to weave a better future.
M.M.R.A.
M.M.R.A. is a Portuguese family business with 40 years of experience in circular knitting. It exports to several international markets, presents a wide range of natural, organic, recycled and synthetic products. Among the innovations, the use of compositions with mixtures of recycled viscose, organic cotton, recycled cupro, nettle, hemp, banana with pineapple and linen stands out. M.M.R.A. is committed to OEKO-TEX®, GOTS, GRS and OCS certifications.
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BLUEZONE Signature Spring.Summer 25 - Part II
Entdecken Sie die neuesten Innovationen der BLUEZONE - Part II
At BLUEZONE, some 100 international Denim- and sportswear suppliers will present their most recent Denim novelties and innovations. Halls 6 + 7 will become the blue hotspot. Parallel to MUNICH FABRIC START with THE SOURCE and KEYHOUSE, the Zenith area will become the hub of the international denim community with an all-round relevant event programme.
With the leitmotif SIGNATURE, we invite the industry to have a clear and unique vision in this world of constant change, to show its own SIGNATURE… Together with all international industry leaders, let us define or reinterpret the different SIGNATURES that can be created in the wide world of DENIMS!
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ISKO
The entire ISKO SS25 collection now utilises ISKO’s Ctrl+Z material science, in line with its sustainable approach. In terms of circular economy novelties, Re&Up, the new SANKO company dedicated to the recycling of textiles, is worth mentioning. The special collection Denim Redefined – a unique creation by Adriano Goldschmied – is also characterised by the use of responsible fabrics and elegant design, while the RAD RAGS™ Ø WASTE collection developed by Creative Room™ Italia shows how outfits inspired by iconic denim garments can reduce waste through the clever use of patterns.
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ISKO™ LUXURY BY PG
The latest luxury denim collection could not have come from anyone other than Paolo Gnutti. The designer has given free rein to his creativity to develop his vision of high quality, making increased use of ISKO’s Ctrl+Z material science. The result? A bold, seasonless and genderless collection with 8 capsule collections: Blob Trotters, Glamour Rock, Aurum Denim, ChArmy, Casanova Denim, Peach Denim, Reef Denim and Disko Denim that surprise and present the unexpected.
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MARITAS DENIM
FEWER CLAIMS, MORE FACTS – Introducing Red Hot Chilly Season, the SS-25 collection. When we think about the last point of global warming, a hot summer with temperature records is just around the corner! This collection is real authentic denim, but for summer. Light, dry and easy! Maritaş Denim is setting its sights on concepts that combine innovative and sustainability. Natural dyeing techniques and regenerative agriculture are only just the beginning.
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MTV
Established in 1993 in Benedita, Portugal, MTV offers several and high-quality techniques to customize leather garments accessories, such as leather belts, leather bracelets and other leather goods. The quality of workmanship, modern equipment, GOLD RATED LWG vegetable leather use, teamwork between design department and private labels are the main and successfully ingredients to the quality and beauty our leather goods.
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ORTA
WE HEAR THE WORLD BREATHING – A collection of optimistic, regenerative, climate-just denim. In its landmark 70th year anniversary, ORTA’s newest collection is leading the way towards 100% regenerative eco-bold denim. The collection represents a continuum of ORTA’s design aesthetics and ethics that embrace art, technology and sustainability with an industry leading regenerative denim model of “use longer, circulate and regenerate.”
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INSIGHTS OF BLUEZONE SIGNATURE
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BioBase - Sustainable innovations
BIOBASE
by BIOTEXFUTURE
Green Threads of Change: Revolutionizing Textiles With Sustainable Bio-based Alternatives
Sustainable Innovations
BIOBASE, a central project within the BIOTEXFUTURE cluster, introduces sustainable alternatives from available resources for textile applications with competitive costs and properties. The overarching BIOTEXFUTURE project, led by the Institute for Textile Technology at RWTH Aachen (ITA), the Chair for Technology and Organizational Sociology (STO) at RWTH Aachen, and sportswear manufacturer adidas, aims for the transition of the entire textile value
chain to biobased materials.
BIOBASE is motivated by the challenge of dependence on fossil raw materials in the production of synthetic polymers, which poses ecological, economic, and political risks. The project targets the establishment of biobased polymers in the textile industry, demonstrating their full potential. Key sectors of the German textile industry, including automotive, sportswear, interiors, and technical textiles, are the focal points.
Within the BIOBASE project, the entire textile value chain of selected products is traversed. By gradually increasing the technological maturity level from Technology Readiness Level (TRL) 4 to TRL 6–7, the industrial production of biobased and sustainable man-made fibers is advanced. Polymers, yarns, and textile surfaces are developed based on applications, considering technical requirements of the industries.
The collaboration between research institutions and industrial partners allows the creation of industrially produced demonstrators, unfolding a beacon effect for the German bioeconomy and showcasing the potential of biobased polymers available in the market. The project also identifies further research and development potential for the BIOTEXFUTURE innovation area, which can be implemented in subsequent sub-projects.
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GRATEX
The Grausam Textil Spring/Summer 25 collection is characterised by a clear, bright colouring. It presents a variety of prints with matching jacquards, yarn dye items, lace and outer fabrics. Playful designs and a wide variety of base materials create a unique collection full of ideas and possibilities.
HÄNDEL + DILLER GMBH
Händel + Diller has been knitting fabrics in southern Germany since 1962. Under the premise of certified environmental and social standards, circular knitted fabrics are produced for manufacturers of lingerie, home- and sportswear, orthopaedics and technical applications. The range for the Spring.Summer 25 collection also includes GOTS-certified wool fleece made of 100 % merinowool or in cotton blends, including jacquard patterns.
HEINRICH SUNDAG – TEXTILDESIGN + VERTRIEB
Summer, sun, well-being: Cooling materials such as cotton, linen, hemp is wanted as plain or combined qualities. Linen comes as woven or delicate knitted alternative. Besides that, fine merino qualities, lightly milled are matching the season between seasons. GOTS and GRS are also included.
IOAKIMIDIS TEXTILES
Ioakimidis Textiles invests in excellence by following and forecasting new fashion trends as well as by largely defining these trends through unique stories of vision and creativity. Their latest designs offer a glimpse into the endless possibilities and imaginative ways in which their fabrics can be incorporated into your designs. Get inspired and explore their extensive plain qualities collection of cotton, linen, rayon & viscose textiles in crêpe, satin & muslin along with their unique fancy lace, jacquard or embroidered textiles and many more.
KARMA KOKTEYL KNITTINGS
Karma Kokteyl is a fabric manufacturer with over 35 years of experience. Over these years, they continue to produce by following the latest innovations on the fashion and technological developments. Their main vision is to give their customers fast and quality production according to their exact requests. They are able to produce fabrics like; Single jersey, Double jersey, Jacquards, Ribs, Interlock, Elec. Jacquards, Pique. The key fibres used are: viscose, cotton, polyamide, polyester, linen and spandex also with branded yarns like lycra, modal, tencel, lyocell and organic cottons. As a company, it is their goal to continue working with sustainable fibers and their blends, as well as jacquard and interlock knitting.
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Blooming Minds - Sustainable Innovations
Blooming Minds: Social Printing
Dynamic Diversity In Textile Printing
by ELIZABETH BALADO
Sustainable Innovations
Elizabeth Balado is an artist, designer, and researcher from London, presenting a unique, experientially-driven workshop with her project “Blooming Minds: Social Printing”. Developed over the past year, the workshop combines the psychological and physical benefits of nature with community-based creation, by guiding participants to create their own prints. The workshop encourages participants to follow their own intuition to select and forage flowers and plants and then arrange a composition, before using a technique to transfer the natural dye onto cotton using a mallet.
She will be presenting a variation of the workshop at the KEYHOUSE during Munich Fabric Start, which will consist of participants applying the print technique onto tote bags, allowing them to create and keep their own work. Elizabeth’s research focuses on combining nature – especially the use of natural and recycled materials – and community, a social practice which weaves themes such as mental health while encouraging accessible creativity. Her current work can be found on her Instagram and website. Elizabeth is open to collaboration with foragers, biologists, mental health services and others interested about participating in further printing workshops.
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The latest accessory developments for Spring.Summer 25 – Part II
HIGHLIGHTS OF THE ADDITIONALS SPRING.SUMMER 25
The latest developments for buttons, ribbons, decorative stones, closures, linings, lace, embroidery, interlinings as well as labeling and branding solutions will be presented by around 200 leading international ingredients and accessories suppliers in the ADDITIONALS Area at MUNICH FABRIC START.
CHARLE – PREMIUM – HABERDASHERY
CHARLE – premium haberdashery is specialised in the development of biodegradable bands made from high-quality organic cotton, Lyocell and natural rubber. The narrow fabrics combine excellent elasticity with sustainable materials and promote environmentally friendly practices. CHARLE remains true to its commitment to sustainable innovation and offers a pioneering solution for elastic and nonelastic bands – made in Austria.
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EZIO GHIRINGHELLI SPA
The SS25 collection by Ezio Ghiringhelli SpA is characterised by its timeless quality, research and technology of new finishes that impart a special silkysoft and airy hand feel to the fabrics. Geometric and floral microdesigns create three-dimensional reliefs, while super-lightweight items are achieved through the use of particularly fine yarns. Jacquard comes with etamine weave, stretch viscose crêpe in a palette of natural tones, all in line with sustainability.
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FRANKENBERGER FUTTERSTOFFE
In the new spring/summer 2025 season, Frankenberger Futterstoffe is focussing on the expansion of environmentally friendly qualities made from recycled base materials and is focusing on extended, ecological work processes. Innovative designs and powerful prints reflect the “Joy Inside” trend theme both as a lifestyle and as an eye-catcher in the garment. Trend colours such as sepia-ink and cloudy-anise are part of their basic colours and are available in many qualities!
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GRAF & CO.
The Graf & Co Spring/Summer 25 collection focuses on rough, organic geometric surfaces. Metallic and reflective materials to communicate technicality. Tactile designs are inspired by wild nature. Shades of green highlight the natural vocation. Felt, leather, fabric, rubber and again sustainable and recyclable paper packaging solutions with materials sourced from FSC™ certified forests, recycled labels from post-consumer plastic bottles and biodegradable heat transfers.
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GUNOLD
Lots of combinations in the summer of 2025: Textile craftsmanship meets hightech and AI, Sustainable fabrics are mixed with plastics, innovative graphics meet retro fonts. At Gunold, METY’s range of iridescent and pearlescent shades, inspired by seashells and beetles, helps building bridges between glamour and naturalness. Flowers and flower motifs are interpeted more graphically and in alienated colour combinations, being contemporary and suprisingly light at the same time. Here Gunold uses the organic COTTY BIO in combination with stunning Poly SPARKLE shades.
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Being Plucked - Sustainable Innovations
Being Plucked
Artistic Rebellion Against Colonial And Gendered Hierarchies
by SUZANNE CORCESSIN
Sustainable Innovations
Suzanne Corcessin’s “Being Plucked” (“Être à Fleur de Peau”) utilizes unconventional textiles to argue against the notion that bird plucking and hair removal are neutral actions. Suzanne Corcessin views these acts as political, maintaining colonial and gendered hierarchies. Through bird plucking and the aesthetics of hair removal, bodies historically have been controlled and objectified.
The installation employs latex, textiles, silicone, and feathers to create textures that confront viewers with conflicting emotions, provoking new perspectives on the debate over hair removal. In this everyday decision and product debate, the question arises: Who decides what is right or wrong, beautiful or unattractive?
“Being Plucked” questions underlying assumptions and illuminates the political dimensions of decisions about one’s body. By creating textiles that evoke discomfort, Suzanne Corcessin urges a shift in the perception of the act of hair removal, breaking through the colonial and gendered structures often associated with this topic.
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DESIGN STUDIOS - SPRING.SUMMER 25 I
DESIGN STUDIOS
The DESIGN STUDIOS area offers creative input, progressive ideas and new designs.
In Studio 1 DS (firstfloor), textile designers and trend agencies from all over the world show their fabric designs and latest developments for prints and patterns.
Some exhibitors in this area are:
AQUI DESIGN | BERNINI STUDIO | FUSION CPH
AQUI DESIGN
AQUI DESIGN presents the most significant pattern and prints for the upcoming seasons. They offer exclusive pattern and print designs, collection design development, design story for your target group, design in seamless repeated and placed, design with Pantone® colour-system and color story, required size and file format, product design and simulations, Product mockups, bord mockups, trend reports and workshops, brand advice and coaching for future collections.
BERNINI STUDIO
BERNINI STUDIO’s approach to the Spring/Summer 25 season focuses on a soft, medium saturated colour palette and a more manual look, trying to offer a modern twist on classic motifs. Based in Como, Italy and founded in 1986, Bernini Studio has been since then the point of reference for textile prints on an international level. Bernini Studio offers an array of prints which reflect the latest fashion trends. Its passionate team of designers explores different techniques to provide customers with a wide choice of original and exclusive designs.
FUSION CPH
At FUSION CPH – Scandinavia’s leading Design Studio – fresh new prints have been developed which reflect the newest trends. Their collection is inspired by the latest catwalks, Copenhagen street style and consumer trend reports and their design process often starts by hand, with a focus on hand drawing. The trends they feel strong about are artistic handmade abstracts where their designers can get creative and experiment with brushes, inks and paint. They have also had fun creating distorted and blurred florals with a modern aesthetic. For the spring/summer 25 season the Scandinavian inspired colour palette they are loving is soft camo greens with a warm peach pink pop.
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Fabric Trends Spring.Summer 25 - Part III
Fabrics Highlights für Spring.Summer 25 - Part III
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ETICO PRINTS & FABRICS
30 years of printing experience and a passion for blending contemporary and traditional fashion, ETICO leaves a unique mark in the exciting world of fashion. With their proficient design team, they offer a wide collection for every story. They prioritize design excellence, giving utmost importance to their customers’ ever-changing mood boards, creating stunning collections. Join them on this fashionable journey and experience a whole new dimension of self-expression!
FABRIC & CO.
Fabric & Co. focuses on sustainability in its new collection, designed in line with the latest trends. With a production facility known for continuous investments in technology, the brand adopts an innovative approach and adheres to a principle of not compromising on quality.
FEINJERSEY
dfine. by Feinjersey is a new collection by a fully integrated fine rib fabric manufacturer in Austria, Europe. They are crafting high-end fabrics by embracing minimalism and precision and combine exceptional functionality with collective responsibility and prioritize the development of degradable materials with a minimal ecological footprint. dfine sets a new standard of ecological production through fully digital resource monitoring and the synergetic reduction of water, energy and chemicals. The collection is segmented into 5 sections: AVANT => Fashion Forward Fabrics (stock program), IVORY => second skin underwear, APEX => functional asthetics, FORMA => fluid shaping and ARMIS => elite safety.
FILDAN
FILDAN introduces several new innovations: The Mushro Grip Tape replaces the velcro tape and comes in different sizes. It can be combined in any way – useable for many different areas of functional clothing. OFF-Hey is a game-changer for fasteners that replaces the traditional Hook & Eye with one single component. One click, and your garments are securely fastened. The Shoulder Strap Pad is an innovative add-on product for bra straps. It avoids cutting in the shoulders.
GOTTSTEIN
Focus at Gottstein GmbH & Co. KG continues to be on sustainability and short transport routes. In collaboration with the Hohenstein Institute, the boiled wool and felt fabrics produced in Tyrol were tested for their biodegradability with an extremely positive result. Within just two months, the submitted samples for biodegradation testing made from undyed wool completely decomposed.
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KEYHOUSE NEWS – FELDE FIBRES
This innovative quality offers unmatched fineness, handfeel, and appearance, unlocking new application possibilities and reviving the long-overlooked hemp plant.
The Source Collection’s News: NEW LOOK Fashion
The Autumn/Winter 25-26 collection showcases a range of exceptional knitwear pieces, perfect for your retail line.
ReSOURCE NEWS: ARTISAN:RE
At artisan:re, they are revolutionizing agriculture by championing the needs of farmers and artisans.
FABRIC HIGHLIGHTS & MATERIAL NOVELTIES FOR AUTUMN.WINTER 25/26 – PART IX
Smart-formal will replace the smart-casual as seen in recent seasons. This "new formal" will take men’s wardrobe to a more elegant, refined level.
Additionals Trends Autumn.Winter 25/26 – Part 5
At Nilörn, we believe that branding is an experience essential to a company’s overall success.
Sustainable Innovations – Ilse Kremer
Fungi use biochemical processes to produce pigments, meaning they have a different impact than fossil-based heat and extraction processes.
BLUEZONE NEWS – SAAT MUNICH
Inspired by the aesthetic of heritage motorbike wear and made from innovative denim, Saat Munich together with...
KEYHOUSE NEWS – T-Rex
The T-REX (Textile Recycling Excellence) Project brings together 13 major players from the textile industry along with research institutions to create a harmonised EU blueprint for closed loop sorting, and recycling of household textile waste.
FABRIC HIGHLIGHTS & MATERIAL NOVELTIES FOR AUTUMN.WINTER 25/26 – PART IV
From classics to metallics, the heroes of Raschel and fancy jerseys, Target, are again widening the scope of their collection.
Sustainable Innovations – Biotexfuture
By working with industry and research partners, BIOTEXFUTURE supports the development of bio-based textiles through various projects and innovation spaces.