Keyhouse

Planet REhab Capsule: Celebrating Sustainable Collaboration

It is great to have organic fibres, right? But as a producer of fibres, the influence on a more sustainable textile production often stops here. Textile garments have complex supply chains which sometimes imply production partners all over the world. That’s why the solution for a more coherent and holistic form of sustainability often lies in right supply chain partnerships!

That’s the idea behind the so called “Planet Rehab” capsule collection, for which renowned textile companies, who are environmentally committed, have partnered up to create something bigger than their own.

The collection was presented during last edition of KEYHOUSE in January. MUNICH FABRIC START feels especially committed about this project as all project partners – Lenzing, Tejidos Royo, Officina +39, and Tonello have been long term exhibitors at the fair.

These companies recognized the success to achieving their own goals lies in fulfilling their shared ones, by working collaboratively and responsibly – seeking out more sustainable raw materials, implementing new technologies and employing processes that reduce resource utilization and waste. Juan Carlos Gordillo designed the Rehab collection around Lenzing’s TENCEL™ and TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ branded lyocell fabrics from Tejidos Royo. The fabrics were dyed using Recycrom technology from Officina+39 and the resultant garments finished by Tonello.

Lenzing’s TENCEL™ and TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ branded lyocell fibers enhance the sustainable qualities of the fabrics. Made from renewable wood in a closed loop, energy and resource efficient manufacturing process, TENCEL™ fibers and TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ fibers made with recycled cotton scraps provide the fabrics with softness, smoothness, tenacity, and color intensity.

Spanish fabric producer, Tejidos Royo, creates “fabric with values” through the company’s commitment to the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals. The manufacturer’s vertical business model has substantially reduced its energy consumption and CO2 emissions through aggressive R&D and provides complete transparency and traceability for their customers

Officina+39’s Recycrom dyes are made from recycled clothing and textile scraps that are specially processed by these Italian experts through a sophisticated production process using only natural chemicals. Waste fabrics are crystalized into an incredibly fine powder that can be used as a pigment dye. Recycrom received the Hightex Award at MUNICH FABRIC START for Autumn/Winter 17/18.

Laundry specialist Tonello also based in Italy, contributed their ECOFREE 2 technology to the project. Fulfilling the needs of the designers and their customers, Tonello’s revolutionary washing process significantly reduces the water and hazardous chemical consumption typically associated with denim finishing.

Guatemalan designer, Juan Carlos Gordillo, applauds the Planet REhab objectives and used the member companies’ products to create fifteen women’s outfits that celebrate life and nature with exceptional color flair and a decidedly Latin influence. The full collection was displayed during the last edition of KEYHOUSE in January 2019, showcasing the eclectic and artistic style for which Gordillo is known for.

“Planet REhab is my tribute to the ocean with its deep colors and flowing shapes,” the celebrated designer says. “The collection also protects the ocean because it is created from the sustainable fibers, fabrics, dyes, and finishing techniques perfected by the Planet REhab collaborating companies. While many companies talk about being sustainable, these companies had the courage to actually create sustainable products and processes that benefit the industry, society, and the planet. I hope this collection can inspire other designers to prioritize sustainability in their creative processes.”


Sustainability as an Innovation Driver – these were the most important issues at KEYHOUSE

Besides the all-encompassing theme of sustainability, technology and digitalisation were the predominant subjects for discussion at the KEYHOUSE, the Innovation Think Tank of MUNICH FABRIC START. There was a great need to talk, both at the stands and in the discussions and round tables with high-calibre panelists at the KEYHOUSE FORUMS.

The keynote speech on “The Circular Economy Journey of Sustainable Luxury Pioneers” of Kresse Wesling, Co-Founder und Director of Elvis & Kresse made it clear that sustainability has long become more than a niche topic for environmentalists. She showed that today’s luxury sector sees an increasing demand for sustainable fashion and accessories. On a cross sectoral level David Shah, owner of VIEW talked about “Why Performance, Comfort and Sportswear Fashion will dominate Apparel for the Foreseeable Future”.

Another highlight certainly was the contribution of Li Edelkoort – one of today’s most important trend forecasters. The visionary presented trend directions for Spring.Summer 2020 and unpublished content for the Colour Forecast for Autumn.Winter 2020/21 in an exclusive seminar.

With the help of digitalisation but also with innovative supply chain partners more sustainable results can be achieved in the long run. This has been proven by the Planet REhab collaboration of designer Juan Carlos Gordillo who created a collection made of TENCEL™ und TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ fibres from Tejidos Royo. The fabrics were dyed with Recycrom-technology by Officina+39 und then equipped with a finish by Tonello. The result, which could be inspected at KEYHOUSE, demonstrated impressively how the sustainability aspect itself acts as an innovation driver. A further example was given by Swedish company We aRe SpinDye® who have revolutionized the dyeing process of polyester for the textile industry. They were the first to succeed in developing a fully certified dyeing process including all production stages, which sets new standards with respect to clean colours and environmental engagement.

Beyond this, the exhibition format SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS at KEYHOUSE showcased the visionary spectrum of the latest material innovations and future orientated sourcing concepts. Here the innovation aspect is on sustainability in particular. For the current season, Diane Scherer presented her project Interwoven, in which the root structure of plants is being transformed into fabrics.

Another example of botany is given by Dutch designer Nienke Hoogvliets. She demonstrated, how algae blooms can be utilized to attain textile colours and environmentally friendly yarns.

Another focal theme at KEYHOUSE was the presentation of the Hightex Award. The winner of this year’s innovation award was Becker Tuche, Aachen. The company received the award for a new product development combining wool and Cordura with spandex – super lightweight and highly functional. The runner up was Soorty Enterprises with an extremely lightweight, recycled and water-repellent denim in a Tencel/nylon blend and in third place came Mectex by Manifatture Italiane Scudieri. The Italians are known for their high-tech developments in the sports and outerwear segment and come up with new ways and solutions for fusing comfort and function.